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Discussion Starter #1
Anyone know how to make the 12v accessory socket in the center console turn off with the car?
 

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On most cars now, you can't. The ashtray 12v turns off with the ignition. But the center console is used to power accessories, including recharging cell phones, so the manufacturers leave it hot.

You'd have to rewire it.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Would rewiring simply be changing some wires/connectors in the fuse panel or would I have to rip whole car apart to run new wires to the outlet? I don't mind doing a little bit of work ;) The problem is I use my ipod in that console with the aux input and a car charger, so I dont want to drain my battery with my ipod continually being charged over night...
 

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You don't have to worry about draining your battery charging your iPod. At most it only holds a watt or two of energy. Look at your iPod, then look at your car battery. Your car battery won't even notice it! Just starting your engine takes hundreds of times more energy than your iPod can hold.

Anyway, you'd need to wire the console 12v outlet to a circuit that shuts off with the ignition. You could probably do it at the fuse box, or you could do it within the center console by wiring both the ashtray and the center 12v outlets to the same circuit.

I don't know where you can get a wiring schematic on these cars yet. Your local service department should be able to help you, mine is pretty nice about asking such questions (they've even copied diagrams for me before).
 

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I don't know where you can get a wiring schematic on these cars yet. Your local service department should be able to help you, mine is pretty nice about asking such questions (they've even copied diagrams for me before).[/QUOTE]


Hi: They are available.

Service Publications: Look in your owners manual page 9-44. Among the publications you can order (from your dealer) a '2010 Workshop Manual' and a '2010 Wiring Diagram'.

They are expensive! When I asked the parts dept. how much, they said about $200 U.S. for the Workshop Manual. I didn't ask about the Wiring Diagram manual. The price may or may not be negotiable depending on the dealer.
 

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Yeah, these manuals are very expensive. They're the same manuals that the dealer techs use, and they are incredibly extensive. Can you imagine creating a 1,000 pages of detail drawings and procedures every year on every car model in your line up? No wonder they cost so much. I bought one for my Dodge on CD instead of print, and it was like $100. I used to read the huge manual for my Cobra at night as reading material. But then, I'm not quite right in the head when it comes to cars! :)

Wiring manuals are usually cheaper than the service manuals.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
thats crazy your cars have a hot 12v constantly?
Yup, the one in the dash is switched, but the one in the center console is always on.
 

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Yes, this is becoming very common. It allows you to leave a cellphone (or other device) plugged in and hidden in the center console to recharge.
 

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I found this. It's not a wiring diagram, but it shows wire colors/locations for the keyless entry-related items.
 

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I would think you could just pull out the cup holder and shifter trim and wire the console one into the dash one, that way they are both switched. But I am no elecrician so don't know if it's that easy or there are other concerns with doing that.
 

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you could also wire in a toggle switch for the one in the cup arm rest. A simple rocker switch either flush mounted in the arm rest or on the plastic in front of it as well.
 

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I forgot my charger plugged into the center console and went out of town for 4 days......no issue whatsoever...I wouldn't worry about it.
 

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This thread is pretty ancient, but I'll add to it. As part of wiring an aux power jack into my hatch, I decided I wanted to add the circuit to the fuse panel to look like it came from the factory (still working on that part. Need the right wire). Playing with the fuse box doesn't seem like that big of a deal.

First, look at the attachment. The two circled slots are unused and already have switched power running to one lead each. There's not a second lead in there. You should just be able to remove the console aux power lead from it's existing slot and plug it into one of these unused ones.

Here's a link to changing things around on a VW fusebox. I don't think ours has that fancy locking mechanism. All you should have to do is use a small screwdriver to release the wire and plug it into another slot.

I'd recommend updating your plastic fuse diagram too.


I'm curious. I'll check it out after work tonight.
 

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Great idea to add a pwr port in the hatch..you've inspired me to do the same!
Before you go into your fuse box...read this thread
Swapping Power Port Circuits
The fuse frame has a release tab so you can access the backside of the fuse frame..just might make what you're looking at easier.
 

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Great idea to add a pwr port in the hatch..you've inspired me to do the same!
Before you go into your fuse box...read this thread
Swapping Power Port Circuits
The fuse frame has a release tab so you can access the backside of the fuse frame..just might make what you're looking at easier.
Haha, thanks. I read that thread yesterday, and completely forgot about it when replying to this today.

For others, here's the link to the Swapping Power Port Circuits thread.

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There've been no less than three occasions that I've wanted to plug something into my hatch, only to get pissed and have to plug into my console. I did most of the work last night and am in the middle of a quick writeup. Attached is a teaser pic.

Currently, I'm using an add-a-circuit to share always-on power, but once I get the right fusebox wire (see attached pic), I'm gonna make it look proper.

So, this is kinda after the fact, but gauge wire would you recommend using? I see a lot of people suggesting 10-14AWG for a 10-15A circuit with a run this long. However, the wires going to the cigarette lighter and console outlets look like 20+AWG for those 15A circuits.

[EDIT: Created How to Add AUX Power to Hatch thread]
 

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I think it might matter depending on how much current draw the socket may need to deliver.
For ipods and such, 20AWG would be fine, however if you plan on running a compressor( the kinds of things a hatch socket might be better suited for) or other items that will draw more current, I would go with the heavier gauge wire. And if you install the heavier gauge wire now, no worries later.
 

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ok so i somehow blew the 15A fuses for the Cig power and the Aux power :sad 1: Is it covered under warranty? haha if not where can I find the fuses? I checked Radioshack and they didn't have the one that looked like the one thats installed.

the ones I found look like this:



oem ones look like this:

 

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i read somewhere that the power source in the center console is on a 30 minute timer, meaning it powers off after 30 minutes.
 
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