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Discussion Starter #1
im looking to lower my 2012 mazda 3 hatchback and i was owndering, if i get the H&R lowering springs from corksport that lower 1.6 in the front and 1.9 in the back will i need a fender roll? i measured my back tires distance from rubber to fender and it seemd like if i lower it more than an inch and a half it will rub against the fender. and i noticed thagt if i do a fender roll it won be possible fully. the part of the wheel well that is connected to the rear bumper doesnt have a small lip that will be able to be "rolled".

please if any of u have experience on lowering ur second gen 3s just comment im a noob :)
 

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Stock wheels you will be find without a roll. But if you are looking to get wider wheels you may need a roll. I am lowered 2.5" and I have 18x8.5 +45 and I have not rolled my fenders. I did adjust some more negative camber in the back but that was it. I don't rub at all, I'm close, but I don't rub


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i know. im lazy.
The search button here sucks. The best thing to do is go to google. type in key words or you whole question. Most likely our M3R fourm will pop up 1st on the list and give you a topic discussing it.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
The search button here sucks. The best thing to do is go to google. type in key words or you whole question. Most likely our M3R fourm will pop up 1st on the list and give you a topic discussing it.
yeah the search function isnt great and i tried googline i couldnt find anything
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Offset and wheel width are what matters for a fender roll after you lower, not just the ride height itself.
im planning on keeping the same wheels. i have the stock 17 inch wheels. i dont plan on adjusting the camber after lowering,
 

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You'll be fine without a roll but you prolly want rear camber arms since you're going lower than 1.75


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You'll be just fine lowered with stock offsets and width. I have 4x 25mm spacers coming in today to flush up the stock wheels + winter tires so I'll let you know how that goes if I rub with 16x6.5 +25 and stock sized 205/55 tires being pretty low. Was plowing snow today with my front end and skidplate lol.
 
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im planning on keeping the same wheels. i have the stock 17 inch wheels. i dont plan on adjusting the camber after lowering,
def should get camber unless your going for that look of your wheels bowing in haha check speedyracer.com have a rear pair for $110
 

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Here's what you'll look like lowered on stock wheels in terms of wheel to fender clearance. You won't rub at all as the wheels will be pretty far sunken into the wheel wells.





25mm spacers






With them bolted up and at stock height (in this case completely uncompressed up on jack stand), they poke out a bit but when you settle the car back down they tuck in nicely.




After settling back down, flush all around.





 

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Discussion Starter #13
thanks that looks real clean, and what spacers did you get. are spacers mainly universal does it matter which i get on my car. and do they sell spacers that arent 25mm maybe like 10 or 15?
 

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thanks that looks real clean, and what spacers did you get. are spacers mainly universal does it matter which i get on my car. and do they sell spacers that arent 25mm maybe like 10 or 15?
You want a spacers that will accept your bolt pattern... which is 5x114.3. And usually you want the same hub size. Our hub size is 67.1.

The thing i have against universal spacers are they are not an exact fit since they accept so many hub sizes and bolt patterns.

And you can find spacers in almost any size your little heart desires.
 
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I ordered Adaptec spacers since they had a deal on these as someone bolted them up once, decided they wanted bigger ones, and returned these so they went up for sale on their website for a steal of a price.

I'd highly suggest getting spacers especially for your car. I did universal slip on spacers in the past and had vibration. These are 67.1 hub bore on BOTH sides (mounting surface and wheel mounting side) and fit snugly onto the hubcentric bores. No vibrations whatsoever.
 
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25mm spacer is thick enough that the stock studs are completely covered (unless you have longer lug nuts in which case they stick past a little) but the factory wheels have pockets in the back of them anyways between the lug holes. One thing that I did notice is that the studs that were pressed INTO the spacer were much longer than stock so I had to get extended lugs or the studs would bust thru the ends of my stock lugs... like so





but it'll be worth it, because the end result is what Mazda should've made the car look like: aka not sunken wheels with wheel gap you can fit your leg in.






Best view is from the rear... love the nice wide tracks and that the wheels are now visible (although the car does get dirtier quicker with the tire tread being further out)



 
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