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I have a 2015 Mazda3 hatch... I replaced the springs with an Eibach Pro-Kit, then after a year I added the Koni Special Active shocks and struts.
Since Covid, I've driven the car approximately 3,000 miles. In the past 1,500 miles, I began to notice the FRONT driver side was slightly lower when compared to the FRONT PASSENGER... around 1/4". Has anyone else had this problem? Anyone have a clue what could be wrong?
 

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2018 Mazda 3 GT
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Do you have a 2L or 2.5L? Did you buy adjustable end links to compensate for the change in ride height?
CK
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I have the 2.0. I did not buy adjustable end links... I'm pretty much a newbie when it comes to suspension. Do you know where I can read more into ael?
 

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2018 Mazda 3 GT
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okay. then you have the correct springs for your car. The adjustable end links can be purchased from a few vendors for the front. The rear OEM links should be okay, unless you get an upgraded rear sway bar, then I'd get some HardRace rear adj. end links.
Here are some fronts that are really well made:
CK
 

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I have a 2015 Mazda3 hatch... I replaced the springs with an Eibach Pro-Kit, then after a year I added the Koni Special Active shocks and struts.
Since Covid, I've driven the car approximately 3,000 miles. In the past 1,500 miles, I began to notice the FRONT driver side was slightly lower when compared to the FRONT PASSENGER... around 1/4". Has anyone else had this problem? Anyone have a clue what could be wrong?
Just curious, is the REAR passenger side the same height compared to the REAR driver's side? Reason I ask is the skyactiv chasis is pretty stiff in general... One slight change in height on one wheel usually affects another wheel.

If it's ONLY the front driver's side that's higher, then at least you can start to narrow down the cause. I wouldn't necessarily jump straight to the end links as the cause for the height difference. Especially if you're a "newbie" as you said. You're introducing more 'headache' to your suspension maintenance that you may not want to deal with. Unless you're autocrossing or driving hard all the time, or want to get bigger sway bars, you don't need adjustable endlinks for normal commuting. I'm not saying the endlinks aren't the cause, but there's a number of 'simpler' things that could be the culprit that I would check first.

A loose top mounting bolt on the rear struts can cause a height change that affects the front (which is why I asked about your rear heights). Or a piece of rubber debris lodged into between the spring and springs seat of the shocks. Things like that can be a hair-pulling experience to diagnose... but it could happen, ask me how I know.

I know it's a pain to do, but you might have to go back and take off the shocks/springs to find these "simple" fixes. But I would do that first before investing in adjustable end links, unless you're already planning to upgrade your sway bars... in which case, just go ahead and get'em.

While on the topic of adjustable endlinks, I'd have to recommend against the Racing Beat ones.. Unless you don't mind using a vice grip instead of a wrench to make adjustments. Nothing wrong with using a vice grip, but you'll scar the heck out of the metal studs of the endlinks if you do. Nothing wrong with the RB parts quality either, but the studs simply don't have a "flat" part anywhere on it that you can use a wrench to 'hold' while you tighten the bolt.
 

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I have a 2015 Mazda3 hatch... I replaced the springs with an Eibach Pro-Kit, then after a year I added the Koni Special Active shocks and struts.
Since Covid, I've driven the car approximately 3,000 miles. In the past 1,500 miles, I began to notice the FRONT driver side was slightly lower when compared to the FRONT PASSENGER... around 1/4". Has anyone else had this problem? Anyone have a clue what could be wrong?
How many miles have you clocked prior to installing the Prokits? On old cars, I'd usually pair new springs/struts w/ fresh topmounts & inspect/replace all other worn items while into it. Suspension component wear won't always be even on all 4 corners....That could be a factor.
When I got mine on a few months from delivery, everything was spot on.

Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk
 

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2012 Mazda 3 GX MT5
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Height difference ... caused by
Chassis is off
Surface view height is not level.
Car does weight different on each corner
Car suspension has to settle before verifying (50-100 miles)
Springs not mount correctly
Tire wear different on each tire .
Old rubber mount (always replace with new)
Strut mounted incorrectly.
 
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