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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Talking to installers, have Polk MM6501 component speakers, a JL JX 400/ 4D amp, and a Rockford Fosgate 4 AWG amp power wiring kit. Equipment to be installed in my 2016 Mazda3 isport, non Bose hatchback.

The amp has speaker level inputs, so I was hoping to utilize those, probably by tapping into the rear speaker lines. Some installers are saying that will work just fine, other say I really need a PAC device (line out converter). Thoughts?
 

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My installer (I have MTX all round and MTX 4 chan amp) put an old school equalizer up under the dash.

Maz 3 speaker wires in, 5 sets of low level RCA's out(FR/FL/RR/RL/SUB).

Lets me fiddle the frequencies a bit better and the sub control is a bonus.

Not how I was considering an upgrade but it was cheap, simple and works.


One of these jiggers.

 

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A PAC is really nice and cheap for someone that doesn't want to splice wires. If I recall it even supplies the remote source for the amp and just piggybacks off the stock radio harness. If it were my install I'd pay the $35 for the PAC and run it that way. Using an EQ like pictured above is obviously a lot more expensive but for some people is the only way to get the customization they really want.
 

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Talking to installers, have Polk MM6501 component speakers, a JL JX 400/ 4D amp, and a Rockford Fosgate 4 AWG amp power wiring kit. Equipment to be installed in my 2016 Mazda3 isport, non Bose hatchback.

The amp has speaker level inputs, so I was hoping to utilize those, probably by tapping into the rear speaker lines. Some installers are saying that will work just fine, other say I really need a PAC device (line out converter). Thoughts?
If your amp has speaker level/hi level inputs then you can use them.

Depends on the installer, some really prefer to use loc or a dsp or simply the speaker line if the amp has that feature. Some for added income, but my installer like to use a dsp even if my amps have speaker line for a simple fact to maximize tuning of the system.
 
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