[tastic]

I've found that with 2 different sets of LED turns, specifically the front ones, that one will turn off after 10-20 minutes. I thought it was a faulty bulb, but when I upgraded to switchbacks, I've noticed the same thing.

Specifically, my front drivers side one will shut off after a while. This is particularly bothersome since when it does go out, I obviously have no left blinker in front (yes, pull me over, please, officer!)

Another thing I've noticed is that if I turn the parking lights on and let the switchbacks come on, pause, then turn on the low beams, the switchbacks remain on, but if I click quickly from off to low beams on, the switchbacks don't come on and only the low beams do.

Do you think this is just a case of crappy led bulbs or something related to the electricals in my turn signals/parking light wiring?

 

[mazda3UR]

did you try putting the stock bulbs back in and see if it resolves the issue?

 

[tastic]

only occurs with the 2 sets of LED turns...doesn't happen with the OEM amber filament bulbs

 

[Ro7orkopf]

Chinese LED assemblies of questionable quality. If you really want proper LED lighting for signals that is safe, they are going to cost more than what you find on eBay. The only ones worth a damn that fit into the 7440/7443/7444NA bulb openings are V3 Tritons from V-LEDS.

 

[tastic]

They aren't V3 Tritons but I did get them from V-LEDS, not ebay.

Chinese LED assemblies of questionable quality. If you really want proper LED lighting for signals that is safe, they are going to cost more than what you find on eBay. The only ones worth a damn that fit into the 7440/7443/7444NA bulb openings are V3 Tritons from V-LEDS.

 

[Ro7orkopf]

Same difference. The V3s are the only bulbs they actually put legitimate R&D time into for functionality. They are garunteed to be brighter than the stock incadecsent bulb, even in direct sunlight, which is where all the other PnP LED bulbs fail.

 

[chris_top_her]

Are you using a resistor? or did it come prewired for LED? And those V3's; also made in China. Just like many consumer electronic component (esp TV"s) many parts parts are generic supplied to various companies, You'll find the same with V-LEDS eg Tritons are using LED's from Philips, an OEM parts manufacturer. Aside from the lens and packaging, I don't see how that bulb should be any more reliable than a "generic" led bulb of the same output.

 

[tastic]

I don't believe it is resistor related...I'm using the appropriate pair of rear mounted 3 Ohm LRs for the 4 LED turns...no hyperflash...bulbs are the not the fancy ones that don't require separate LRs...both rear turns and the front right turn are working perfectly.

Of course the last few days they have all been working fine! LOL! Although I haven't had prolonged drives in the last week or so...the one bulb seemed to just go out after about 20+ minutes...and even then it wasn't every time. Makes me think I just have a couple of faulty bulbs and it just happened that for the first set of ambers and this set of switchbacks, and the bum bulb happened to be installed in the front left.

They are sending me replacements gratis to try out...I'll report back once I get them in and try them for a while.

One thing to note is that the problem has only happened once since I had the front turns made into DRL to conform to Canadian regulations (on with ignition) for mu US imported 3. I'm OK if the constant use as DRL actually solves the issue!

 

[Ro7orkopf]

Are you using a resistor? or did it come prewired for LED? And those V3's; also made in China. Just like many consumer electronic component (esp TV"s) many parts parts are generic supplied to various companies, You'll find the same with V-LEDS eg Tritons are using LED's from Philips, an OEM parts manufacturer. Aside from the lens and packaging, I don't see how that bulb should be any more reliable than a "generic" led bulb of the same output.

There's a difference between Made in China and Manufactured in China. For once they are using real quality diodes and the casing construction is much better. Since they are driven at proper levels to actually be seen they have a great heatsink. They just released an updated version with AMP connectors for better connection. Them using Philips Rebel diodes alone make them more reliable than anything else on the market aside from Elefs which use a 5w Osram Dragon and 3w Luxeon diodes.

OP, I hope those bulbs have a good heatsink to be run as DRLs. Otherwise you'll fry them

 

[tastic]

Yup...they have an aluminum barrel heat sink and are rated for DRL use.

OP, I hope those bulbs have a good heatsink to be run as DRLs. Otherwise you'll fry them