The pictures as I said were all at the same time and place, same camera, lens and settings. Camera set for manual exposure, f/0, 1/20 sec, ISO 6400.All of the isocandela chart I posted here is "measured data", and colored for better observation.
And all of the chart is data of currently available aftermarket bulbs, they aren't chart I made up., it's just a result in our Stanley H11 projector.
Consider those data are better in-depth version of graphical information, that beyond typical camera photo can explain. Camera photos only can capture so much, so you can't exactly tell if it is truly beneficial distribution or not. Very limited impression you can get.
Of course, those aren't commonly available infrastructures, equipment, but I have data I can share, so I shared for those who may be interested in. Please do not think this is made up painting, it is actual data.
if you don't want to believe the numbers, that's Ok, but do not deny those data existence comparing against your personal subjective impression. I have been providing measured data numbers, yet, so far, you have not provided any absolute candela information nor understanding how beam distribution contributes to driver view.
Photo with light ON, without lights ON only can give very rough general idea of how light looks to the driver in very very subjective impression, just does not tell how exactly benefitting or disbenefitting such information.
Because, there is no way for you to tell how bright those lights are. It's like stepping on the analog scale without scale grid number notation, telling, look needle pointing so far up. Compare to no light=0. Any number can be bigger than 0, you just showing light on and off, but not comparing how LED light on is brighter than halogen reference.
Telling shed in 500' away, and it is illuminated well in photo I took, you can change that impression simply by adjusting the exposure of the camera. But exposure detail was also not defined. You can't adjust exposure based on 0 illumination,, you got to adjust at highest illumination point, then, got to bring something to compare.
I fail to see the logic of the 1st and 2nd picture failing due to too much foreground. #2 has virtually no light directly in front of the car, and #1 has enough to see by. If those are indeed low beam patterns, choosing between the 3 images I would much rather have the one shown in picture 1. Picture 3 is not really relevant though if as you say the resolution didn't allow full visualization of the pattern.Beam pattern 1~3 comparison are also actual projector's data, colored and scaled in grey, put into road simulations.
And it is hard to believe, but 1 and 2 fail to satisfy FMVSS safety standard. and 3 is the one satisfy FMVSS regulation( it is patchy looking because of data resolution for simulation was lower than other 2) Top 2 are HID projector, aftermarket. The main reason of failure is too much foreground illumination as low beam.
So your logic does not comply to a regulation minimum standard of how foreground illumination balance must be.
What you believe better is actually against what safety regulation defines "better"
That is very hard to tell just by those pictures, that the point I was bringing up here.
BTW, just because meeting the minimum requirement of regulation does not mean it gives you the best night view experience. In fact, I dislike how regulation is outdated!!
But regulation at least prevent bad lamp to disbenefit uses.
Aftermarket LED bulb product does not even have control or consideration to such sately standards,, so off course, they won't work properly.
No, its not hard to believe that the standards would make this choice. I know about the standards, and I know that they are considered by many to be obsolete.
Yes, the regulations are supposed to keep substandard parts off the market. And no, the regulations don't actually prevent bad products from being sold. Its real easy to stamp anything with the letters DOT and call it good. Only a small percentage gets checked and only a few get caught. There are lots of substandard parts being made in the far east being sold to unsuspecting Americans. Nobody worries about it too much for some reason....Actual enforcement has really become a thing thats up to each state to decide rather than the federal government. There are a few states that have started using violations as a source of revenue...most don't care and can't be bothered....Thats why you see all those older cars with bright blue HID or LED lights that have zero control over light dispersion...
That not what I was referring to. "Unsafe" or "not suitable for street use" means they don't provide illumination thats proper for its intended use, not that they just aren't marked DOT. In other words, are they at least as good as OEM, do they put sufficient light where it belongs without blinding oncoming drivers and allow you to operate a vehicle in a safe manner....As you say, the standards are outdated and obsolete. Whats needed is a real comparison to see which LED designs are good and which aren't, all standards, or lack thereof, aside.frankly speaking, so far, none of LED bulbs sample actually pass FMVSS safety regulation standards in Stanley H11 projector.
If you define " not suitable for on-street use" then, I must say all of them. ( for fog lamp application, and few high beam applications, there are Ok to use LED bulbs, but not for Low beams so far, unfortunately.
Back on OP, as arathol and I suggested, installed position should be LED to facing 3 and 9 o'clock.
And also, try double-check if LED position is close to what H11 filament position supposed to be.
Back surface of bulb base 3 tabs, that is reference surface, from there, start of filament should be positioned at 25mm of distance. And filament itself is 4.5mm
Your LED bulb has 4 x ZES, the illumination area is longer than 4.5mm, but if the start of the light-emitting surface edge is closer to 25mm specification, you get a better-controlled beam result in our projector.
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