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2017 Premium Equipment Package that adds self-leveling, bi-LED headlights with Adaptive Front-lighting System; LED combination tail lights; LED daytime running lights



Bad part is DRLs include front headlights which mute the halo effect.
 

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The Adventure Mazda
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Those bulbs won't work as DRLs. No LEDs will. You need to have a separate add-on decoder harness to make the DRLs work with LEDs. I got one from iJDMtoy. Its the R1 option for 9005 bulbs.
Acura Honda Lexus High Beam LED Daytime Running Lights Decoder Modules

The DRLs are the high beam bulbs run at about 7 volts. With LEDs, the ECU won't illuminate the DRLs properly. The R1 harness plugs into the headlight power supply for the right headlight, and runs across to the left side. Both lights are powered by the harness. The power supply for the left side is plugged into a ballast resistor to trick the ECU into operating the DRLs.
Those LED bulbs you have may not function all that well as headlights either. Most are too short and don't allow the reflector to focus the beam properly if at all. Very bright is useless if the light is not focused on the road in front of you. Most LEDs just scatter the light everywhere, especially bad for on coming traffic. The emitter chips need to be located at the same height as the filament in the halogens would have been.

These bulbs, or something similar is what you need to get illumination at any distance.

H4 H8 H9 H11 9005 9006 LED Headlight Bulbs Replacement

I have just installed a set of these 9005 bulbs and find they do work quite well. They do need a bit of tweaking but focus the same as the halogens.
The emitters need to be located at 90° and 270° to work in the reflector in your car. Out of the box, they are about 10° off vertical. So, you need to take off the collar and modify it slightly to get it right.
Thanks for the reply! Just getting on here to see your message now. I have ordered the R1 kit. I will update with how it worked with my setup and bulbs.
 

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The Adventure Mazda
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BOOM! My DRLs are back and looking great!

 

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What does the beam pattern look like with those bulbs? Is it focused as well as the halogens?
Just to clarify a couple things, you can route the new harness right along side the existing wiring that runs along and behind the top of the radiator and secure it with zip ties. The resistor can easily be mounted on the vertical panel right behind the driver side headlight. You need to remove the air box for access to do this though.
The harness has what would appear to be a heat resistant shielding so no worries about mounting it so near the radiator.
 

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Hi, on the picture the low beam light seems to be good, but in real life I know this is different, how is compared these led's to the halogen in light length down the road?
I have been searching for weeks since I got my Mazda 3 trying to find an affordable led for my lows, but everyone says that led's don't get a long light output on projectors.
 

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Hi, on the picture the low beam light seems to be good, but in real life I know this is different,
In real life? You don't think the pictures are real?:dunno:
How do you know it is different if you haven't actually used them?

how is compared these led's to the halogen in light length down the road?
Look at the pictures. Its as least as good as the halogens and brighter.

I have been searching for weeks since I got my Mazda 3 trying to find an affordable led for my lows, but everyone says that led's don't get a long light output on projectors.
Who is everyone?
Again, read the posts above. Look at the pictures. The high beams and low beams work fine with the bulbs shown above.
 

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"Real Life" I meant in person. When I take pictures of my car at night the lights output seems to be triple on the pictures when in reality isn't.

Note: And of course I think the pictures are real and I appreciate that you took the time to post them here for ppl to have an idea of how they look.

By "everyone" I meant to say "most" ppl seem to agree that led's don't do that well on projectors just yet (talking about aftermarket LED's on halogen projectors). Yes you get the nice white color, and yes you get that brighter light output in short distance but the light doesn't travel as far as halogen. Also let's not forget that the closer the light gets to blue the more susceptible our eyes are to it, which is why we see brighter light.

I just wanted your input, that is all. Like you said, I will have to personally try them and judge for myself. Thank you for taking the time to reply.
 

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"Real Life" I meant in person. When I take pictures of my car at night the lights output seems to be triple on the pictures when in reality isn't....


By "everyone" I meant to say "most" ppl seem to agree that led's don't do that well on projectors just yet (talking about aftermarket LED's on halogen projectors). Yes you get the nice white color, and yes you get that brighter light output in short distance but the light doesn't travel as far as halogen. Also let's not forget that the closer the light gets to blue the more susceptible our eyes are to it, which is why we see brighter light.
Actually, the pictures don't really show how bright the lights really are.:smile2: They are not close to blue at all, those are white, advertised as 6000k xenon white, 4000 lumen high beam.
The whole "LEDs don't work" thing used to be true not that long ago, but there are now LED bulbs that do actually work in reflector housings designed for halogens for the reasons in the posts above. Its all about bulb design, not light color. They are not cheap but they do seem to have better output.
 

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Those bulbs won't work as DRLs. No LEDs will. You need to have a separate add-on decoder harness to make the DRLs work with LEDs. I got one from iJDMtoy. Its the R1 option for 9005 bulbs.

Special LED Daytime Running Light Decoder Wiring Relay Kit


The DRLs are the high beam bulbs run at about 7 volts. With LEDs, the ECU won't illuminate the DRLs properly. The R1 harness plugs into the headlight power supply for the right headlight, and runs across to the left side. Both lights are powered by the harness. The power supply for the left side is plugged into a ballast resistor to trick the ECU into operating the DRLs.
Those LED bulbs you have may not function all that well as headlights either. Most are too short and don't allow the reflector to focus the beam properly if at all. Very bright is useless if the light is not focused on the road in front of you. Most LEDs just scatter the light everywhere, especially bad for on coming traffic. The emitter chips need to be located at the same height as the filament in the halogens would have been.

These bulbs, or something similar is what you need to get illumination at any distance.

H4 H8 H9 H11 9005 9006 LED Headlight Bulbs Replacement

I have just installed a set of these 9005 bulbs and find they do work quite well. They do need a bit of tweaking but focus the same as the halogens.
The emitters need to be located at 90° and 270° to work in the reflector in your car. Out of the box, they are about 10° off vertical. So, you need to take off the collar and modify it slightly to get it right.
I have a question, is the output of the R1 harness still 7V in DRL mode, or is it back to the full 12V? I know a lot of LED bulbs aren't designed for the lower voltage but I also wouldn't want the DRLs to be the same brightness as the high beams and blind incoming traffic.
 

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I have a question, is the output of the R1 harness still 7V in DRL mode, or is it back to the full 12V? I know a lot of LED bulbs aren't designed for the lower voltage but I also wouldn't want the DRLs to be the same brightness as the high beams and blind incoming traffic.
The harness doesn't change anything, its just an adapter to fit the LEDS to the car so they work correctly. Its just some wires and plugs.
 

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Hi, I have been trying to follow these threads and replace my halogen lights with LEDs.

I bought this set from amazon [LED Link ] and installed them in my car.
I followed arathol's advice from this and other threads and bought the R1 harness as well [R1 Link]

I wired it up according to M3MX5M3's video and even tried other configurations but I cant get the DRLs to run as they used to. Through all my trials, I dont think the DRLs came on once. Usually the high beams would not function either. In some configurations I was able to flash the high beams successfully but pushing the stalk forward would not keep the high beams on (the dashboard indicator would turn on but the lights themselves would be off.)

I removed the harness and connected all the bulbs directly to their power and the high beams began working as intended. Of course I still run into the DRL problem but I have surmised that the harness is not working. Are there any other solutions? Is it possible I just have a faulty harness?

I have been trying this on my 2017 Mazda3 Sport with manual transmission and can't figure this out. Did anybody else experience this? Any support would be appreciated
 

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If the hardware is working properly all the lights should function correctly if its installed properly.
If its installed properly and not working, chances are there is a problem with the harness.
You did install it properly? Both lights running off the passenger side plug and the resistor block plugged into the drivers side plug? Make sure all the plugs are connected properly. Some bulbs may have polarity issues too, so try reversing the plugs....

 

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Just thought, but does your car have the auto headlight function? If it does make sure you turn the switch to manual....and the DRLs won't come on unless you release the parking brake.
You might want to check the harness at the plugs with a volt meter to see if there is power and what voltage when the DRLs are supposed to be on and when the headlights are supposed to be on.
 

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I do have auto headlights and did not know that the parking brake needed to be lowered for the DRLs to turn on.
Anyway, I connected the harness according to the diagram and still could not get the DRL/high beam to turn on. I tried all combinations of connecting the wires to account for polarity blocks but still couldnt get power to the high beams. I manually tested the lights each time, with the engine on, and moving back & forth with the parking brake off.

The resistor is getting hot when the car is running so I think that is connected correctly, but I do not think the lights themselves are getting power. through the harness Will try to get a voltmeter and test that out too.
 

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Its starting to sound as if that harness might have something wrong with it. You do need to find out if the harness is actually delivering power to the bulbs.
 

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Are you sure they will work with the Mazda CAN Bus?
The bulbs are just LED replacements. There isn't any reason they shouldn't work.
The lights work when the harness isn't in place, but the DRLs won't work without it. The lights don't work at all with the harness installed though. That indicates that the harness may have some sort of issue.
 

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Spoke with a customer rep at ijdmtoy.com. They suggested that my LEDs may not be DRL compatible (despite being 9005). I purchased these ones and the product page does not specify DRL use.
The rep also stated that replacing my halogen DRL/High beam with LEDs would remove the high beam functionality and they would function only as DRLs despite installing the R1 harness. Is that right? I thought the harness would force the LEDs to run on low brightness when in DRL mode and turning on the brights would force higher voltage and higher brightness (as a high beam should).

I think I will return the harness and the lights and purchase just the H11 LEDs separately since I am happy with how they worked. If you have recommendations for good 9005 LEDs that worked for you, I would try that next.
 
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