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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Let me first say that i'd like to thank those on this forum that took the first plunge into buying and installing these. But not only that, posting up guides for everyone else as well. Well, with all the info I found on here I purchased the Koni FSD shocks and Racing Beat springs for my 2015 Mazda 3 Hatchback GT. I've successfully installed shocks/springs on my old NC Miata before, although it was quite a frustrating experience. So I thought i'd give it a second shot, and lo and behold the first shock I work on, the front driver's side shock, the sway bar end-link hex bolt hole strips. I even soaked it in penetrating fluid the day before, and again today. But I knew this was going to be one long journey of hell, especially with 3 other shocks to do and I can't be without my car for very long. So... I will be bringing it to the mechanic sometime this week to complete the job. Hopefully they'll be able to fix this. I guess you win some and lose some?!
 

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How do you keep it from spinning though? lol. Our endlinks don't have a wrench pattern to use to keep it still. I think the layer of rust built up on the threads was piling up as I was loosening the nut. So eventually it go so tight it wouldn't budge and just got stuck. Then the hole stripped.
 

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It usually just spins until it comes out... lol.. Sometimes if I tilt the socket a bit to put some sideways 'pressure' it usually comes off. Or try a propane torch for a few seconds then air wrench it off that way.
 

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Grab it here with a pair of needle nose vice grips -



It also helps to have a pass through ratchet set. You'll need one to do the top nut on the strut also, and a spring compressor.

You will need an impact gun to do the lower studs on the rear if they have been in there a while. If you don't have one you will wish you did.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
What?! They have pass through socket wrenches?? First time I am learning about this... I was wondering how the heck I was going to do the top strut nut. I was just using crow foot extensions. Wow, I need to update my arsenal. I should probably look into impact wrenches too. How much do those usually run? Are the electric ones any good? But anyway, I think the endlink nut is stuck on there pretty good, even the vice grip method wouldn't work I can tell. I was already using all my might just to be able to turn it.
 

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How do you keep it from spinning though? lol. Our endlinks don't have a wrench pattern to use to keep it still. I think the layer of rust built up on the threads was piling up as I was loosening the nut. So eventually it go so tight it wouldn't budge and just got stuck. Then the hole stripped.

I only did springs, but the endlinks came off easily for me, did not have to use two wrenches or stop anything from turning - once i unscrewed the nut, the link came off easily once I lined everything up with the jack to relieve tension...i suspect you need to get something off i didn't, but my instructions noted the "Stop spinning" part too...possibly dumb luck on my part.

I feel your pain - it sucks when something like that stops you in your tracks. I always say that's what separates the mechanics from guys like me - i'd be stuck just like you on that - mechanics have a big back of tricks for those situations.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I think your endlinks just might not be as corroded as mine. You're right, im still kinda debating whether I should buy some tools like a dremel to cut it off, or impact wrench and vise grips like arathol said. I could probably finish the job with those tools but im not 100% certain, and it'll take some time. Or I could just bring it to the mechanic and have them do everything for the same price as the tools.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
My mechanic installed it today, here she is :grin2: I will come back with comments on the ride, but my initial impression is that it is stiffer yet somehow the ride quality is better! I plan on getting a set of 2004-2008 RX8 5-Spoke wheels (The 18"x8" ones) to go along with this hehehe.

 
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