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Discussion Starter #1
On three or four occassions, I've removed my key (non smart key) and hear the warning chime that indicates I've left the key in. When I close the door and go use the remote to lock it, the doors don't lock. If I put the key in and cylce through the ignition I can get the beep to go away.

This in addition to the random beeping I hear for no apparent reason. I hear a beeping tone with all gauges in the normal range, TPMS not showing a warning, and not accidently hitting any buttons. It's very annoying.

I vistied John Hine Mazd in San Diego today and they were unable to duplicate the problem. Has anyone else had a similar problem?

Thanks,

Matthew
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I agree with the lock cylinder problem. Unusual on a car with less than 12k and a year since purchase. Good news is it's documented and will be under warranty for a while. Bad new is I don't want a faulty ignition on long trips or when I got to the mountains or desert.
 

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All they need to do is have a locksmith come out and re-actuate the cylinder. Had the same problem on my 1998 Oldsmobile Intrigue at 57 miles. After having it fixed, it never happened again.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I had my Blackberry and shot some terrible video. Hope it's enoough to show my dealer the problem and sound of the beep.


<object width="425" height="344"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/La_MiYLy6-s&hl=en&fs=1"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/La_MiYLy6-s&hl=en&fs=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="425" height="344"></embed></object>
 

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This may be a dumb question, but is the door open and headlights on? I get a beep similar to that with the lights on! Just a thought.
 

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Thanks for the questions. No, the headlights were off.
Damn, that sucks! The video should help to plead your case with the dealership! Good luck and keep us posted!
 
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Discussion Starter #11
Service manager is working with Mazda tech. He's working on getting the lock cylinder replaced under warranty. Video helps alot.

But, they still want to be able to repeat the problem at the dealership when a tech is working on it. Intermittent problems are tough to get fixed!
 

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I've got a better idea. Why don't they replace the lock cylinder and keep yours? That way, they can hire an hourly employee to play with the lock until it fails.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Video helped alot. Dealer was able to show to Mazda tech and get part of lock cylinder replaced under warranty. They replaced the sensor that tells if the key is still in the lock cylinder. I'd much rather the whole lock cylinder was replaced but am happy Mazda and the dealer are working with me.
I'm glad I was able to post info here and on YouTube. May help out other Mazda owners. I've heard earlier cars like the 03 and 04 Mazda 3's had a similar problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Mazda continues its refusal to address this problem. It's very clear what the problem is. They say a Mazda tech has to duplicate this intermittent problem. When I called the dealer they said to drive it up so a tech could try to duplicate the problem. Cyling the ignition clears the problem meaning I may maker another wasted trip to the dearler.

Mazda refuses to authorize 2010 Mazda 3 S 6 speed key cylinder problems - YouTube
 

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Hello all, new member here.

I've dug up this thread to share my solution to this problem. Those of you whose cars are still under warranty may already have had it fixed by the dealer. But my 3s is no longer under warranty. (Year 2006, I actually bought it used 2 months ago.)

So anyway, I also had an intermittent problem with the key cylinder. Half the time it would be okay when I shut the car off and pull the key from the ignition. At that time the keyless entry/lock worked of course. However, within a short period of time something in the ignition cylinder would "click" and would act like the key was still in the ignition; hence I couldn't unlock it with the remote, only with the key in the door lock, while the car is beeping with the door open, etc.

A couple of weeks ago I tried to attempt a fix by taking apart the dash and see what the problem may be but realized that the ignition is pretty much one piece and I did not want to risk breaking something by continuing taking things apart.

However, a couple days ago I found out by experimenting that there may be a solution...

The cylinder has an in-and-out play of probably 1/20th of an inch (1-2mm). It's a spring-action movement. You can push the whole cylinder in about 1-2mm but a spring pushes it back out immediately. Note that here I am NOT talking about the smaller, dark gray inner cylinder that the key slides into, but the bigger cylinder. (The small, dark gray cylinder also has a little bit of play on its own, but it is irrelevant here and will not be affected by the fix.)

I found that when I removed the key from the ignition WHILE holding the cylinder pushed in, the little key sensing mechanism worked properly every time, no "click", no beeps, everything is good. However, as soon as I released the cylinder and let the spring push it out, the mechanism clicked, beeps started as if key was in the ignition.

So the solution for me was to keep the cylinder pushed in permanently.

So I basically wedged two small pieces of brass (made from a picture hanger hook), coupled with some superglue, between the cylinder and the ignition housing (both metal), which is basically the outer metal shell that houses the cylinder. I did this WHILE holding the cylinder pushed IN of course. There is about a 1/50th inch gap between the housing and the cylinder, that's where the metal pieces can wedge in (180 degrees apart, one on each side), with the superglue and hold the cylinder pushed in permanently. This prevents the spring from pushing the cylinder out. If you come up with your own method of keeping the cylinder pushed in permanently, that works too. It just has to stay pushed in, that's the key thing (no pun intended) :)

CAUTION: only a tiny bit of super glue is needed (if at all), we don't want glue to get to places where it can bond the actual ignition components.

I did this to my car a couple days ago and it's been working properly since.

DISCLAIMER: attempt this at your own risk, I'm just sharing what worked for me, and my car is not under warranty. I'm not responsible for any potential damage to your car.

Good luck.

p.s. I see that this is the 2010+ Mazda 3 discussion, maybe a moderator can move it to any potentially relevant discussions.
 

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Hello all, new member here.

I've dug up this thread to share my solution to this problem. Those of you whose cars are still under warranty may already have had it fixed by the dealer. But my 3s is no longer under warranty. (Year 2006, I actually bought it used 2 months ago.)

So anyway, I also had an intermittent problem with the key cylinder. Half the time it would be okay when I shut the car off and pull the key from the ignition. At that time the keyless entry/lock worked of course. However, within a short period of time something in the ignition cylinder would "click" and would act like the key was still in the ignition; hence I couldn't unlock it with the remote, only with the key in the door lock, while the car is beeping with the door open, etc.

A couple of weeks ago I tried to attempt a fix by taking apart the dash and see what the problem may be but realized that the ignition is pretty much one piece and I did not want to risk breaking something by continuing taking things apart.

However, a couple days ago I found out by experimenting that there may be a solution...

The cylinder has an in-and-out play of probably 1/20th of an inch (1-2mm). It's a spring-action movement. You can push the whole cylinder in about 1-2mm but a spring pushes it back out immediately. Note that here I am NOT talking about the smaller, dark gray inner cylinder that the key slides into, but the bigger cylinder. (The small, dark gray cylinder also has a little bit of play on its own, but it is irrelevant here and will not be affected by the fix.)

I found that when I removed the key from the ignition WHILE holding the cylinder pushed in, the little key sensing mechanism worked properly every time, no "click", no beeps, everything is good. However, as soon as I released the cylinder and let the spring push it out, the mechanism clicked, beeps started as if key was in the ignition.

So the solution for me was to keep the cylinder pushed in permanently.

So I basically wedged two small pieces of brass (made from a picture hanger hook), coupled with some superglue, between the cylinder and the ignition housing (both metal), which is basically the outer metal shell that houses the cylinder. I did this WHILE holding the cylinder pushed IN of course. There is about a 1/50th inch gap between the housing and the cylinder, that's where the metal pieces can wedge in (180 degrees apart, one on each side), with the superglue and hold the cylinder pushed in permanently. This prevents the spring from pushing the cylinder out. If you come up with your own method of keeping the cylinder pushed in permanently, that works too. It just has to stay pushed in, that's the key thing (no pun intended) :)

CAUTION: only a tiny bit of super glue is needed (if at all), we don't want glue to get to places where it can bond the actual ignition components.

I did this to my car a couple days ago and it's been working properly since.

DISCLAIMER: attempt this at your own risk, I'm just sharing what worked for me, and my car is not under warranty. I'm not responsible for any potential damage to your car.

Good luck.

p.s. I see that this is the 2010+ Mazda 3 discussion, maybe a moderator can move it to any potentially relevant discussions.
bro thank you for this. I have a 2010 Mazda 6. Standard lock and key. Started having this problem Today out of no where. I noticed before it happened that my key didn’t want to turn in the ignition. Try, try, and then itstarted. But after I turned it off, got the beeping thinking my key was in the ignition. Did all the other things I’ve read to get it tostop, but you giving the anatomy of the lock helped me. This time, I tried pushing into the ignition with a little more pressure as I turned the key. Heard a little bit louder click than normal as it turned and the sound went away.
 
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