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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 2012 Mazda 3 HB, Skyactive.

As recommended, I purchased a 3rd FOB in case one of the originals got lost- I programmed the FOB to unlock/lock the doors. The dealer cut the key and then I programmed the key- all without any problems.

Then one of the original FOBS was lost. So I purchased another. I went through the same scenario, but this time the key will not program. The engine immobiizer light flashes when no key is in the ignition. The car does start with the older FOBS.

Does anyone have a solution to deactivate the engine immobilizer light and if this could be causing the new FOB key from programming?

I have read of similar issues and recommending removing the negative battery cable, but I seem to remember reading that doing so could then cause the windows to not go up and down completely, so I thought I would ask about this specific issue.

Thanks in advance.
 

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If you disconnect your battery you'll lose the following settings:
NOTE: all these settings can be regained, you just need to reprogram them.

  • Driver window won't roll up or down on one click.
  • Radio settings (Bass/Treble/Fade etc.) will default to 0.
  • Trip A & B meters will reset to 0.
  • Door Lock/Unlock (via shifter position) will reset to factory default.
  • Clock will reset to 1:00 am.
  • ECU will reset and begin its self test (should take a few days to complete).
I think that's it, but I'm sure someone will chime in if I left something out.
 
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Do you mind explaining what you mean by "it should take a few days to complete“ when the ecu rests?-...

Thanks.


If you disconnect your battery you'll lose the following settings:
NOTE: all these settings can be regained, you just need to reprogram them.

  • Driver window won't roll up or down on one click.
  • Radio settings (Bass/Treble/Fade etc.) will default to 0.
  • Trip A & B meters will reset to 0.
  • Door Lock/Unlock (via shifter position) will reset to factory default.
  • Clock will reset to 1:00 am.
  • ECU will reset and begin its self test (should take a few days to complete).
I think that's it, but I'm sure someone will chime in if I left something out.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Does anyone have an idea what may be keeping the key portion from programming?

Again, the remote portion of the FOB to lock/unlock the doors programmed without any issues. The dealer cut the key. But the key won't start the car after going through the programming sequence;

Basically, have 2 programmed FOBS and the new key to program.
Insert programmed key, turn to on, then off.

Repeat for key 2 and then the new key #3.

I have done it quickly in sequence, and also slower waiting for the key light (?) to go out, but the third key will not work.

I took the new FOB apart. Verified the parts were correct.

The only thing I have for my effort is a working FOB to unlock/lock the door and now the engine immobilizer light flashing when not in use.

Thanks for the list of 'things' that can happen by disconnecting the battery. I appreciate the information.
 

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I don't know what method you're using to program the key, but try this.

◦Insert the first working key into the key slot and turn the ignition to ON. Wait about 5 seconds, then remove the key.

◦Insert the second working key into the key slot and turn the ignition to ON. Wait about 5 seconds, then remove the key.

◦Insert your new/spare key into the key slot and turn the ignition to ON. Wait about 5 seconds, then turn to OFF. This should add that key’s information to the onboard computer and allow it to start the car.
 

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I have a 2012 Mazda 3 HB, Skyactive.

As recommended, I purchased a 3rd FOB in case one of the originals got lost- I programmed the FOB to unlock/lock the doors. The dealer cut the key and then I programmed the key- all without any problems.

Then one of the original FOBS was lost. So I purchased another. I went through the same scenario, but this time the key will not program. The engine immobiizer light flashes when no key is in the ignition. The car does start with the older FOBS.

Does anyone have a solution to deactivate the engine immobilizer light and if this could be causing the new FOB key from programming?

I have read of similar issues and recommending removing the negative battery cable, but I seem to remember reading that doing so could then cause the windows to not go up and down completely, so I thought I would ask about this specific issue.

Thanks in advance.

As recommended, I purchased a 3rd FOB in case one of the originals got lost- I programmed the FOB to unlock/lock the doors. The dealer cut the key and then I programmed the key- all without any problems.
Reading that statement you aren't being clear? Did you ever start the car with the first "new" key?

I did as you did and bought another key off of eBay before any of the two keys I got disappeared.

I had the "new" key cut at the dealer and while they watched and snickered; I programed the car to acknowledged the key and the remote functions.

They wanted 260.00 to do it - key and programing.

What I found out is there are two separate programing procedures to follow; one is to have the car acknowledge the key and allow it t be started. You have to run ALL three keys through the procedure before terminating it.

I then tried to start the car with each key and the car started.

NOW I have to go through another programing procedure to have the car acknowledge the "remote" functions on ALL THREE KEYS.. When that was done I tried the remote on all three keys and it worked.

While the morons at the Mazda dealer were watching and no longer snickering I drove off..

Programing just the key to start the car:

Items needed:
1. 2 pre-programmed transponder keys.
2. 1 new transponder key

The timing is critical to this procedure, please read through the entire procedure before attempting.
Procedure:
1. Insert one of the pre-programmed transponder keys and turn the ignition to "on", leave on for at least one second (I wait until the red key symbol in the instrument cluster extinguishes), remove the key from the ignition.
2. Within 5 seconds insert the second pre-programmed key and urn the ignition to "on" for at least one second but no more than 5 seconds (use the key symbol for this as well) then remove the second key.
3. within 10 seconds insert the new key in the ignition and turn the ignition to "on", if you are successful the red key symbol will illuminate then extinguish after about a second.

If you are not successful the red key symbol will flash repeatedly to indicate that you have inserted an invalid key. Remove the key, wait a minute and try it again, it took me a few times to get it perfect and I had done it before.
How To: Reprogram Keys for Mazdaspeed3 - YouTube

Programing the remote:

1. Close all doors, open drivers door, key out of ignition.

2. Lock and Unlock the drivers door using the power lock switch on door panel.

3. Insert key into the ignition.

4. Turn key to the ON and OFF position 3 times in 10 seconds. Leave key in ignition.

5. Close and open drivers door 3 times ending with door in the open position.

6. Door locks should respond by locking and unlocking.

7. Press any button on remote 2 times. Doors should then lock and unlock.

8. If programming a second remote press any button on it 2 times and door locks should lock and unlock.

9. Remove key from ignition and locks should lock and unlock again.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I called the Mazda dealer and I was told 3 is the number of FOBS that can be programmed to the car.

So, since I already programmed remote number 3 and then lost a remote, the car thinks I have reached the allowed amount and that is why I can't program the 4th FOB to start the car.

I asked the dealer if there was a way for me to remove/reset it so it stores just the 3 FOBS I use in programming and he said he did not know how without using their service.

He did ask me where I bought the FOB. I told him ebay and the phone went dead.............I guess it wasn't enough that I bought the car and warranty service from them...........
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
I have a 2010 Mazda 3 manual. (The car in question is a 2012 Mazda 3I touring)

The way I read it, it indicates I should be able to self program 8 keys.

Anyone with a 2012 manual that can tell me how many keys can be self programmed when I have two valid keys,or know a way to test the chip in the head of the FOB to see if it is working? My understanding is the dealer will charge $120- whether they are successful or not in programming the FOB- money I don't have to throw away.

The new key doesn't even turn when I go through the programming instructions, but the key looks like it is cut right- The dealer cut the key........


Thanks in advance.
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
After calling the Mazda service part department and having the person hang up on me because I purchased the FOB from Ebay, I am hoping this forum can help answer another question.

I am thinking maybe I have a badly cut key even though the dealer cut it. The reason is because the key won't even turn the ignition- so I can't get it programmed. The lock/unlock feature programmed fine.

The 2010 service manual says I should be able to self program 8 keys. Has anyone here programmed a 4th FOB (or higher)? Anyone have a 2012 manual that indicates how many keys that can be self programmed?

Shouldn't the newly cut key turn in the ignition even if the head portion of the FOB is bad?

I tried to take the pin out of the FOB to transfer keys and test my theory that way, but I don't have the tools and didn't want to continue and destroy the working remote . I am hoping someone would have an answer.....Thanks
 

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After calling the Mazda service part department and having the person hang up on me because I purchased the FOB from Ebay, I am hoping this forum can help answer another question.

I am thinking maybe I have a badly cut key even though the dealer cut it. The reason is because the key won't even turn the ignition- so I can't get it programmed. The lock/unlock feature programmed fine.

The 2010 service manual says I should be able to self program 8 keys. Has anyone here programmed a 4th FOB (or higher)? Anyone have a 2012 manual that indicates how many keys that can be self programmed?

Shouldn't the newly cut key turn in the ignition even if the head portion of the FOB is bad?

I tried to take the pin out of the FOB to transfer keys and test my theory that way, but I don't have the tools and didn't want to continue and destroy the working remote . I am hoping someone would have an answer.....Thanks
Yes, the newly cut key will still turn the ignition. Until key has been registered to the car, it just will not start it. So yes, whoever cut the key may have cut it incorrectly. Try to compare the length of the actual keyblade though. When i received my extra key from ebay, the key was a few mm's longer than old key. It wouldn't turn the cylinder at first either, then I backed the key out of the ignition a few mm's and it worked. That may be your issue.

And also, from my experience programming the keys...You can program a maximum of 3 FOB's to the car. During the programming procedure, if you do not register each FOB with the car at that time, the old FOB's will be removed from the cars memory. This does not apply to the keys though, just the key FOB's.
 

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I have a 2013 Mazda 3 and am trying to program a key I got from ebay. The seller only listed compatibility up to 2011 Mazda 3 but other places list compatibility for all years of Mazda 3 for a single key so I assume it's the same transponder (4D:63) for all years. However, I'm unable to get it to program and am not sure if it's the key or what I'm doing.

I'm unclear by the instructions posted here and the example the youtube video posted as they all seem to imply that I need to turn the key. My keys don't turn the ignition as it's a push button start. Even the factory given key, the cut key portion seems irrelevant and only the transponder portion is needed to start the car. There is a switch that detects the presence of a key, but even if I only stick the key half way, I can push the button and start the car.

So following the instructions to program a third key: I insert one of the transponder keys and am supposed to "turn the ignition to on." I can't literally turn the ignition so I push the button twice (once to go to ACC and the second time to ON). The instructions then say to remove the key from the ignition without mentioning if I should turn the car off. If I literally just remove the key, the car stays on and just warns that the key is missing. In a normal turn key situation, I would assume you can't do that so I assumed that I should push the button again to turn the car off and then take the key out. I do the same with the second key. And then the key to be programmed. And it doesn't work. I've tried different timings from very quick to up to 5 seconds.

Can someone clarify what should work in this situation?
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
When programming a key

the car isn't started- the key is just turned to the ACC position, then to off. Do not start the car until after all the FOBs are programmed.

The programming instructions in this thread are accurate. I programmed a 3rd FOB just fine, it is just that one of the original FOBs were lost and I purchased another. I programmed the lock/unlock bottom portion just fine, had the dealer cut the key but the key itself won't turn, but it does unlock the doors. ((I brought it back to have it recut again, but still would not turn in the ignition.)

I am currently in the process of obtaining another FOB to see if I can get it to program. If it also won't program, then I will assume the info the car dealer provided was correct before he hung up on me.............even though it isn't what the manual states.....perhaps the dealer changed the settings at its first service.....
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Thanks for the suggestion

Yes, the newly cut key will still turn the ignition. Until key has been registered to the car, it just will not start it. So yes, whoever cut the key may have cut it incorrectly. Try to compare the length of the actual keyblade though. When i received my extra key from ebay, the key was a few mm's longer than old key. It wouldn't turn the cylinder at first either, then I backed the key out of the ignition a few mm's and it worked. That may be your issue.

And also, from my experience programming the keys...You can program a maximum of 3 FOB's to the car. During the programming procedure, if you do not register each FOB with the car at that time, the old FOB's will be removed from the cars memory. This does not apply to the keys though, just the key FOB's.
I checked the length and it is good. (I didn't try to back it out though. I'll try that later when the car is here and will post if it worked....)I received a replacement FOB, but it had a cut key on it that I didn't have the tools to remove, so it is going back and to have a new uncut key installed, then I'll get the blank key cut and see if I have any luck with the programming.

Thanks for your feedback.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I bought a new FOB

on ebay for $35-40.

I bought a used one later for the same price with a blank (uncut) key- this is the FOB that is giving me a headache- I don't know if there was something wrong with the blank key that was installed or if there is something wrong with the head.

I am in the process of getting a replacement and will go from there..........
 

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Is there a way of programming a new Key FOB if you only have one FOB to start with or am i going to have to get a dealer to program a 2nd?
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Regarding my issue, the seller sent me a replacement FOB w/ a useless precut key. So, it was returned for him to install a blank key and he never returned it, so I have decided to leave it at that. I have the original FOB he sent that I programmed the unlock/lock feature w/o issue, but the key I had cut will not turn for me to program it, so I have no idea if it was a bad blank I started with (too thick, or too long?) or ????
 
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