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Wasn't sure where to post this, and can't find anything when I tried to Google this problem.

I have a 2012 Mazda3 Skyactiv hatchback. At first I thought it was the key fob I had that was having the problem - however, the dealer owed me a second key which I received on Monday. (both at the switch-blade style keys) The new key fob is already dead today. If I replace the battery, it works for 3-4 days then the same issue. Is it possibly a fuse I need to replace? Or should I just ask the dealer?
 

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Def bring it to the dealer. Are you positive that it's the battery in the fob that's dying? Seems strange that two fobs would have a battery drain issue. I wonder if it's whatever electrical system in the car that receives the signal from the fob that's wonky.
 

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Cant be a fuse in the car if its the key dying....
Well, that's why I ask if he's sure that it's the fob. I mean, level with me here; you don't find it strange that two fobs, one of unknown age and care, and one brand new, both have battery failures? I'm not saying it's impossible, just strange.

What else does the fuse that receives the signal from the fob do? If the fuse in question is supposed to do X, Y and Z where X is receiving the signal from the fob, and both Y and Z functions of the fuse work, then it's clearly not the fuse. Otherwise, couldn't it very well be?
 

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Have you tested the batteries with a multimeter? It's possible that the key that they gave you has a dying battery. Does happen. Which key fob last for 3 to 4 days after replacing the battery? Both or the new one?

If the battery tests as being full power, it sounds like the key itself is loosing it's settings temporarily by high powered electromagnetic fields causing interference perhaps? Which you reset by taking the battery out and back in. Where do you leave your keys at home/work and such. Any chance that you leave it near high hydro current sources? Maybe even super magnets. Some people use them to hold key rings.

It sounds like your key is loosing it's original ability to operate as a security key and just freezes. Either by lack of power or radio interference. The other option is that your car's key recognition circuitry is having temporary amnesia.
 

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Wasn't sure where to post this, and can't find anything when I tried to Google this problem.

I have a 2012 Mazda3 Skyactiv hatchback. At first I thought it was the key fob I had that was having the problem - however, the dealer owed me a second key which I received on Monday. (both at the switch-blade style keys) The new key fob is already dead today. If I replace the battery, it works for 3-4 days then the same issue. Is it possibly a fuse I need to replace? Or should I just ask the dealer?
I'm having the exact same problem, with the same car (Mazda 3 Sport GS-SKY). It started with a battery that drained within 9 months of receiving the new car, then when I replaced the battery (at the dealership), it lasted 3 days and died. I was careful to make sure my buttons were only pressed when opening and locking the door, as the dealership suggested the problem was because the fob was being pressed in my pocket.

Anyone else going through the same thing?

SA
 

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I have the same issue - 2010 Mazda 3. Battery dies after 3-4 weeks in my case. I have gone through different battery suppliers and even overpaid at Mazda for a new battery and that one died in 3 weeks! This is a problem with both of my key fobs also. I have the regular type of flip key not the 'Advanced Keyless Entry and Start' type. Called my dealer and they 'never heard of this issue'. I do have a remote start that was installed at the dealer and uses a different remote but maybe there is a wiring issue in the car. Does anyone else happen to have remote start? I'm trying to figure out what could possibly affect both key fobs. It's got to be something in the car? I do store my key within about 10 feet from my garage so maybe there is an active connection? Doesn't make sense..
 

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I've had this problem with my new mazda 3 for almost 4 years and the dealer tells me there's nothing wrong with the car and Mazda Canada won't help me.I've spent over 400 dollars on batteries so far. I went to an independent specialist and in less than a minute he told me it was the body module and Mazda should have swapped it right away. he also told me that the dealers don't want to do this job even though it's under warranty because there's no money in it for them and it's too time consuming. The cost to replace this module is about 2 grand. I'm sending a registered letter to the President of mazda canada about the problem and then I'm going there and parking the car at the front doors and leaving them the keys.
 

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I've had this problem with my new mazda 3 for almost 4 years and the dealer tells me there's nothing wrong with the car and Mazda Canada won't help me.I've spent over 400 dollars on batteries so far. I went to an independent specialist and in less than a minute he told me it was the body module and Mazda should have swapped it right away. he also told me that the dealers don't want to do this job even though it's under warranty because there's no money in it for them and it's too time consuming. The cost to replace this module is about 2 grand. I'm sending a registered letter to the President of mazda canada about the problem and then I'm going there and parking the car at the front doors and leaving them the keys.
Just discovered this issue in my wife's 2012 Mazda3 i Grand Touring SkyActiv key FOBs. Both FOBs have dead batteries after two months. They start the car but won't open the doors remotely. I also own a 2012 Mazda3 but it's an i Touring SkyActiv. I opened one FOB from each car and did some electrical tests. On the bench at 3 volts the bad FOB draws 22 times the current of the the good FOB. So, for example, if the good FOB battery lasts 2 years, 24 months, the bad FOB would last 1 month. This problem is in the FOB not the car. My wife kept her FOBs in her pocket book with 2 magnets. I'm experimenting with magnets near the FOB but it doesn't seem to draw anymore current when placed near a magnet. Also, she bought the car used and the FOB batteries were dead. The previous owner was working with the dealer to resolve the problem. I doubt the guy who owned it previously put both FOBs near magnets, so I doubt magnetic fields are reason for this issue.
 

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Hi, Maybe this could be of interest. I have the same problem, so i started to investigate. Batteries are at currently 2.9 volts, works for a week then nothing, redlight on FOB stops blinking. I connected the CRT to my lab supply and tested. Works fine, then i tried to decrease the voltage step by step, worked all the way down to 2.0 volt. What i found out was the Connection Surface on the CRT for the + getting bad Connection by time and then it will stop working. After some cleaning it works again. Hope this helps you guys, since i have been frustrated that both FOBs stopped working at the same time. BRDS/ Rudolf
 

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Hi, Maybe this could be of interest. I have the same problem, so i started to investigate. Batteries are at currently 2.9 volts, works for a week then nothing, redlight on FOB stops blinking. I connected the CRT to my lab supply and tested. Works fine, then i tried to decrease the voltage step by step, worked all the way down to 2.0 volt. What i found out was the Connection Surface on the CRT for the + getting bad Connection by time and then it will stop working. After some cleaning it works again. Hope this helps you guys, since i have been frustrated that both FOBs stopped working at the same time. BRDS/ Rudolf
This solution (cleaning battery contacts) seems to make the most sense to me, other than some manufacturing defect that might have affected a batch of remotes. My 2012 Mazda 5 minivan (bought new in 2012) came with two remotes and one still has the original battery, while the other has had battery problems starting within six months of ownership, and has been replaced several times (often going many months without replacing it). I'm going to try this technique (cleaning the contacts) and see if it helps. Don't forget to clean not just the contacts that touch the positive side of the battery, but where those contacts eventually touch the board on the opposite side of the battery (I almost missed those). I also clean and leverage out the springy negative points for (hopefully) a better surface contact on that side as well. We'll see if I have to replace the battery again in a few weeks or months. If so, then I would suggest that the manufacturer allowed some type of defect to contaminate these at the factory and there's nothing to be done except keep replacing batteries or replace the fob.
 

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I’m so glad I found this post. I’ve been so frustrated with my keys. I have a 2012 Mazda3 Skyactive (bought new). One key battery died after ~ 8 months so I switched to the spare. That one also died in less than a year.
I’ve replaced the batteries in both, and neither fob lasts longer than 2 weeks now. Sine I’ve bought batteries at different companies, I have ruled them out as the cause.
I will try cleaning the contacts as suggested by Rudolf.
🙏🏼
 

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I had similar problem with my NC Miata (2011) for some years now. A battery in my advanced keyless fob is lasting about a week. Original one lasted about a year, then it gradually decreased to 2-3 month, and now to 5-10 days (I fit CR2032 sometimes when I can't find CR2025).
I finally managed to create some simple testbed to see what exactly is going on. I have 2 fobs, and I measured that at idle they both draw significant current. One about 0.9 mA, and another about 1.8 mA. With typical CR2025 battery capacity of about 160 mAh this translated to about 178 hours or 7.5 days. In my case this is not affected by proximity to the car, so my first hypothesis is that there's something wrong with both of my fobs, like some leaking capacitor or something similar. I guess as a next step I'll just get a new fob and see if this solve the problem.
 
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