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I looked all over and din't find a good thread about what's involved. People talk about it, but never write any details...I'm the kind of guy that likes to figure out what needs to be done, then attack it all at once. Total time was 1 hour, 15 minutes.

Unfortunately, no pics since I did it at lunch break and wasn't sure if it was going to rain or not....

Getting through the firewall in an automatic - If you look under the dash just left to the brake pedal, there is an octagon looking piece of white carpet pad - take that off. Underneath is a white paragon - push that into the engine compartment...It won't fall through or anything, there is a 'floor' on the other side it falls onto...Drill a hole in the white cover big enough to stick your index finger through....replace as you took it off. put your finger through the hole, and pull back towards you - this will 'clip' the cover back in place - no need to remove the battery box. Push the 4awg through the hole and angle it up. go into your engine compartment and look behind the battery box area. keep pushing until you see/grab the wire....

DRIVERS SIDE

pop the door jam plateoff - just grab a corner and pull up...it unclips and comes off.

pop the kick panel off. There is one button you need to take off with a screwdriver, thenpull towards the middle of the car until it unclips.

run the wire along the OEM harness. I used zip ties to hold it in place.

Pop off the gas cap release. pull up, there is a screw towards the front. once the screw is out, pull up on the housing and push towards the trunk...it will come off...

drivers 'B' pillar - pull up on the rear door jam plate, it clips off. then grab the 'B' pillar pull towards the center of the car from the bottom - the enitre piece unclips. I did the front, then the back...

back seat cover thing on the side of the floor (sorry, i have no idea what to call this). one button you need to pop off with a screwdirver, then pull towards the center of the car...2 clips and its off

The carpet is held down by 2 round buttons. One near the drivers seat, one towards the back of the 'b' pillar. pry these out with a screwdriver.

I ran the wire with the OEM harness, up along the 'B' pillar then down under the actuator type thingy in the back seat (where that weird cover is)....

back seat...I kinda muscled this around, so I'm sure there's an easier way....

Pull the floor and subfloor out of the hatch...put the upper back seat down, there is a button you need to take off near the hinge (this one stumped me for a few). go back to the door - i then pushed the upper back seat back up, pulled up and over the bench part of the seat, then pull the panel off...it just all unclips, once it is moving around, just pull towards the front to get it out. There are 3 bolts under the bench 2 - 12mm on the side of the body, 1 - 14mm holding the seatbelt under the bench. Take these out.

run the wire up the side, under that black plate through to the hatch area...and you are DONE! put it all back together and do whatever you want from there!

there are no bulges in the rug, and all plugs and panels fit back perfectly....You MAY be able to run 1/0 in these area also without bulges, but I'm not eactly sure.

I used 17ft (including 1' for battery to fuse) of power wire...I have about 3 - 4 feet in the hatch area....

I hope this helps someone in the future!
 

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Finished hooking up the amp yesterday....

I used 2ft of ground. If you take out the floor and subfloor, you'll find the bracket for back seat. I took out the 2 bolts that hold that down and used a dremel to grind off the paint on the body and the bracket...worked perfectly...

I have the Bose system - I used high level inputs and tapped into the Bose sub wires. I experimented with the crossover points. I started at 150hz, then 120, 110, 100...from what my ears told me, the signal is crossed over at or above 150. I was able to hear the change in every change I made...

Subsonic, I started at 0 and I am currently running at 15hz. Not something you can really hear, so i am assuming it's working....

I used 18 gauge to run from the bose wires to the amp wires. The bose wires appear to be 16 or 14 awg, but the 18 still works fine (for my amp).
 
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