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The Turbo Guy
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205 Posts
Discussion Starter #22
I hacked up an 06-07 Subaru STI front lip and bolted it on. It looks good enough for me. I tried to get a picture next to the real deal, but I need to find some sunlight. I also installed the JDM window visors from Mazda. It has been in the teens (*F) so I have yet to try them out. The coolant has trouble exceeding 150*F around town.



I divvied up my pack of Dynamat Xtreme and added some to the trunk and hatch lift gate. I still need to do the doors, and I'm also considering the hood.

 

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The Turbo Guy
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205 Posts
Discussion Starter #23
I continued with the Dynamat Xtreme. The doors made a big difference for reducing road noise.



I added Dynamat Xtreme to the hood and Dynamat Hoodliner over top that. This quieted the engine down, especially at part load operation around town and cruising on the highway. The intake is still heard at full throttle.




I got a Flex Innovations grounding kit on sale. I still need to double check the routing with them since it is intended to connect to the PFI fuel rail on the older engines.

throttle body --> negative battery terminal --> engine block --> engine beauty cover bracket --> bracket --> chassis ground




I also added some ebay door scuff plates. I had to bend the aluminum by hand and get more double sided tape for proper installation. It looks nice when you open the door.


 

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138 Posts
Was it a direct swap or did you have to modify the bracket to fit it in? Also what about the airbag light? I've been looking into seat options and would love a RX8 R3 Recaro but they're rare and pricey.
 

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The Turbo Guy
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205 Posts
Discussion Starter #27
Was it a direct swap or did you have to modify the bracket to fit it in? Also what about the airbag light? I've been looking into seat options and would love a RX8 R3 Recaro but they're rare and pricey.
It was almost a direct swap and a good deal at $125 from the junkyard. The rear left bracket is slightly off, and I still need to modify it for proper safety. The pigtail fits fine, and the seatbelt idiot alarm works. I assume the air bags are okay. The Schroth racing harness plugs into the seat (after some grinding) so it works with the seat belt alarm and air bags.

 

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The Turbo Guy
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205 Posts
Discussion Starter #30
I did a lot of driving over the holidays and came to the conclusion that the suspension feels too stiff for where I want the comfort level. I drove around with the sway bars disconnected to confirm that was the (effective) spring rates, especially the front.

The mini-speedbump bumps were rough so I thought the front struts may be riding on the bump stops with the 1.75" Road Magnet springs. I was right; droop travel was ~3.25" and there was only 2" travel before engaging the bump stops. I cut the bump stops, as shown in the picture, but that had me kissing them on big bumps so the comfort level wasn't there yet.

I reinstalled the softer Racing Beat 0.5" drop springs in the front. The comfort is definitely better, but now the fender gap is illegal in 3 states. In addition, I forgot that the Racing Beat springs have a larger coil diameter so the inside of the springs are rubbing on the fender wall. I need my front camber.
:stupid:

Now I'm thinking about the Ground Control coilover conversion kit with uber-soft springs so I can customize the spring rate and ride height... And I thought I was close to done.

 

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The Turbo Guy
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205 Posts
Discussion Starter #31
I pulled the trigger on the Ground Control coilover conversion kit. I opted for their minimum recommended spring rates of 300F/350R lb/in. I found it interesting that they measured the stock MazdaSpeed 3 springs at 330F/380R after the initially soft progressive part; that is the spring alone, no bump stops.

I also have a few more simple suspension ideas in the works.
 

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The Turbo Guy
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205 Posts
Discussion Starter #32
I downloaded and figured out how to work the standalone Virtual Dyno program. Here is the relative comparison of the Dynotronics base map vs. my current adjusted calibration #4 . I don't have a log on the factory tune so I don't have that comparison at this time. I like how the throttle is much more linear and how it's a little faster, just enough to keep up in the twisties.

 

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The Turbo Guy
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205 Posts
Discussion Starter #33
I got the windows and windshield tinted, Solar Gard Ultra Performance 75. The water is still drying out, but it's great that they make a clear-like film that blocks the heat and UV light.

I also installed the rear half of the GC coilover kit with 350 lb/in springs and gave it an extra 0.5" of fender gap. So far, so good - firm yet comfortable.
 

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138 Posts
I'll just throw it out here that I'm interested in your RB springs if you decide to sell them down the line after you get the conversion kit in.
 

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The Turbo Guy
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205 Posts
Discussion Starter #35
I took an Easter road trip to the heart of the rust belt, the Chicago and Cleveland areas. The pot holes were an order of magnitude larger, like moon craters. My sway bars were as compliant as a big middle finger over the one-wheel pot holes. I can accept a bit more body roll so I am looking to reduce the sway bar stiffness and improve comfort. Compromises. I'm thinking Whiteline 24mm front and CorkSport 28.5mm rear.

In other news, after D-Jack's thread and the resultant Dynotronics SkyActiv tuning fiasco (link below), I never received an updated file from DT. I could ignore the negative reviews, but, for me, that was the final straw. I bought a tune from OV since Matt is going to stay with the SkyActiv platform. Their tunes are different (target A/F ratio, VVT intake and exhaust, spark timing, etc.), and OV's base calibration felt stronger and smoother than any DT file. I currently have an unfinished tune, which is fine until the MSDS SkyActiv header arrives. Making progress at least.

http://mazda3revolution.com/forums/2010-2013-mazda-3-engine-performance/85289-my-dynotronics-tuning-experience.html

I'll just throw it out here that I'm interested in your RB springs if you decide to sell them down the line after you get the conversion kit in.
Certainly
 

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Aspiring Mad Scientist
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1,716 Posts
Haven't had a chance to read your posts in a while. Did you finish the GC conversion? Pics? Thanks to some new learning, I'm basically going to end up running a GC front end (camber plates, Koni Yellow, and Koni sleeves) so I'll be bugging you and @Rherold9 for pics :D

Also, for sway bars, why not just go stock front/24mm rear?
 

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The Turbo Guy
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205 Posts
Discussion Starter #37
Haven't had a chance to read your posts in a while. Did you finish the GC conversion? Pics? Thanks to some new learning, I'm basically going to end up running a GC front end (camber plates, Koni Yellow, and Koni sleeves) so I'll be bugging you and @Rherold9 for pics :D
You haven't missed much. I still need to cut off the lower spring perches. I'm going to try the OEM struts first, both for practice and unconfirmed fitment with the CorkSport struts that I have. It seemed simple enough - maybe this weekend.

Also, for sway bars, why not just go stock front/24mm rear?
That's a balanced combo, but I'm afraid I'd have too much body roll with 255 tires since I want to keep the springs relatively soft. I took notes on everyone autox'ing and/or tracking their Mazda 3 - all use the 20mm front / 24mm rear sway bars with stiff springs, which makes sense to me. I just have different priorities.
 

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Aspiring Mad Scientist
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1,716 Posts
You haven't missed much. I still need to cut off the lower spring perches. I'm going to try the OEM struts first, both for practice and unconfirmed fitment with the CorkSport struts that I have. It seemed simple enough - maybe this weekend.
So I've been learning a great deal about strut compatibility as well and it's a mess... you can basically measure out the CS strut to determine if the GC sleeves will go over it (strut diameter needs to be 50mm). Did you buy GC camber plates as well? Apparently they need to retool the plates based on which strut you have (many long phone calls with them last week), so there's your answer up top.


That's a balanced combo, but I'm afraid I'd have too much body roll with 255 tires since I want to keep the springs relatively soft. I took notes on everyone autox'ing and/or tracking their Mazda 3 - all use the 20mm front / 24mm rear sway bars with stiff springs, which makes sense to me. I just have different priorities.
Makes sense, as long as you're purposely staying below limits you won't see the 1-wheel-peel issues that we have.
 

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The Turbo Guy
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205 Posts
Discussion Starter #39
as long as you're purposely staying below limits you won't see the 1-wheel-peel issues that we have.
The twisties are few and far between in the cornfields of Indiana, but I know what you mean. I just purchased some Hawk HP+ brake pads so I can take it to the track (HPDE). Did you get any coolant temp data from your time on the track?

I replaced the cabin air filter. I also changed the oil and installed a Mishimoto magnetic drain plug. I expect it to collect a small amount, based on experience with other aluminum engines.



I switched to 10 mm front spacers, the Eibach kit with ~10 mm extended wheel studs. They will be needed if I move to 18" wheels since I keep eyeballing the Michelin Pilot Super Sports.



 

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Aspiring Mad Scientist
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1,716 Posts
The twisties are few and far between in the cornfields of Indiana, but I know what you mean. I just purchased some Hawk HP+ brake pads so I can take it to the track (HPDE). Did you get any coolant temp data from your time on the track?
In hindsight I should have, but did not -- everything was fine though, the car's fans stayed on no longer than they would after a harsh canyon run. Myself and other Skys have made it through trackdays without incident, fear of god hasn't, uh... taken hold yet lol.
 
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