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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hehehe, I aint gone that easily.

For those that's interested. The intake is tweaked further after the dyno visit, as I found the rpm drop slower with the increased air mass. I'd actually have to wait to shift.

No, you dont have to take out the balancer to have the rpm drop quicker. You need to bleed the unused airmass.(vaccum brake anyone?)

Dynotron gents, Noodles, and all the quiet experts here will know what I'm refering to(please know what I'm refering to, you know).

To OrangeV, at 4000rpm @4th gear, I'm at 13.7lb/min.

(no CEL mehehehehe)

FYI: BMW e9x pre manifold setup is a "switching" intake, the airmass actually bleed out the hood vent during gear change. Otherwise, there's no way in WZ's living room that v8 will drop rpm that quickly.

To WZ, I'm sure you can explain the theory behind all the aluminum duct work. The forum looks to you for wisdom.
 

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Hai Guyz C:
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looks awesome.. :001_unsure:
 

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Hai Guyz C:
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LOL, its a mess, I wish its tidier but then I'd have to learn plastic and metal fabrication.
Have you dyno'd it with the e9x setup yet?
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Have you dyno'd it with the e9x setup yet?
uh...no no

Longstory short, whatever I was chasing after has already been built. I just didnt realize it worked with "those" principles.

I think n1smo had a thread with a m3 intake pic in it, and that helped in tweaking this intake. Gotta admire those BMW engineers.

Can you imagine what our 2.5 can output with similar setup?

WZ can explain to everyone what the crucial 5 things in the picture is for(less manifold), and why they are important.
 

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I believe that AutoExe already has one.. LINK
 

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LOL u are so clueless, letting your ego and pride get the best of you. Know when you have lost and leave with at least some dignity. It's sad, real sad. I feel sorry for you man, maybe you will realize the truth someday... ( when your engine blows bc of that air dryer/home depot/ plumers market stuff u got ) ... Pathetic.
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
LOL u are so clueless, letting your ego and pride get the best of you. Know when you have lost and leave with at least some dignity. It's sad, real sad. I feel sorry for you man, maybe you will realize the truth someday... ( when your engine blows bc of that air dryer/home depot/ plumers market stuff u got ) ... Pathetic.
:D

Thank you for caring.

I do monitor the ECT/IAT/Fueltrim/Cat temp etc...

Please do give the ECU some credit, its design carefully to prevent this fool from wrecking the car. And do give plumber's market some credit, if it werent for its fine selection at great prices as well as the heat insulation property of the product it keeps on the shelves with uses including automotive tho its not meant for, the car wouldnt run.

thx again.
 

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:D

Nope, that aint it. Its not ram air if the path isnt sealed to the bumper, or atleast the inlet.

Dare I say it, the stock setup is designed for optimal gear change, not power.
So.. the air inlet that is custom made in the front bumper.. going to an inclosed box around the airfilter is not sealed to the bumper ???

If you want something like the BMW design you posted... it would be cheaper for you to ... buy a CAI that was already engineered.. and then you can fiddle with designing a fancy enclosure around the left fog light/grille area.. since you would have to make one anyway...

otherwise.. the Autoexe is expensive yes, but I believe a few on the forum have purchased the nismo air ram inlet and matched it with a CS cold air box with some tweeking... fresh air being directly forced to the intake (ram air? no?)
 

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...
No, you dont have to take out the balancer to have the rpm drop quicker. You need to bleed the unused airmass.(vaccum brake anyone?)
...
FYI: BMW e9x pre manifold setup is a "switching" intake, the airmass actually bleed out the hood vent during gear change. Otherwise, there's no way in WZ's living room that v8 will drop rpm that quickly.
But seriously, since your back.. this round.. why dont you take more pictures of your intake... instead of that ugly mess of a photo.. no offense...

And explain why you did what you did in a polite and simple manner... if there is one thing you should have learned by now.. calling out wing and tossing lbs/min around like crazed child with a yoyo is not going to get you good remarks...

my 2cents
 

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Do you not understand the meaning of being banned???
 
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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
Will do, sir xGRIZx.

5 important parameter a designer has to consider, IMHO and with my very limited knowledge.

Low rev VE
High rev VE
Fuel trim at Idle and the flow path
pressure bleeder
throttle response

Using the m3 intake as example.

Low rev VE ---> kidney grill scoop
High rev VE ---> lower bumper scoop

With just the engine suction the high rev VE cant be held. Reason for being so, it takes time for vaccum stream to form even if its miniscule. By the time piston is on the way up, intake valve almost shut, cyclinder is filled incompletely. By utilizing a larger ram scoop, it pressurize the air box/manifold, creates a steep pressure drop across the valve, the Air velocity ramps up to fill the cylinder so that the VE is maintained at higher rpm. Which in turn translate to consistant power increase. That's why i said, an intake should be composed of push&pull relationship.

fueltrim at idle is very crucial as its your reference point for fuel management. Fueltrim at higher rpm will always be less than your idle. Otherwise your fueltrim will error to + by default to keep the cat converter cool. Think how much air an intake cycle at 4k rpm consumes compare to the intake cycle at 1k rpm. Its less isnt it? why should the fuel injection pulses be longer if you have mods? AND if you have a significantly faster car, fueltrim will be even shorter considering the acceleration the ECU has to adapt to.

The box inlet hole in the picture, the position relative to the manifold, and the width determines throttle response. the path and restriction limits idle air flow, as it created distance(hence, more time taken) for air to travel. So at idle, it consumes minimal air volume/gas. At WOT, the air stream forms instantly.

The hood vent is working off the vaccum based on the velocity of the vehicle. Not only it bleeds excesive pressure during gear change (pressure spike out to atmosphere instead of leaking slowly through TB into cylinder)it keeps the airbox pressure at its designed load point(so it doesnt kaboom).

My intake is similar in principle.

:D

I thought about taking more photos...but if you look at them all...they look the same(all silver shiny stuff), and I dont want to rip them apart yet, I'm waiting for ECU to set(EVAP sensor is usually the last to set FYI).

edit: I'm looking at already made brand name SRI CAI and materials so after the 2nd dyno run, if its still consistant with the first, it can be easily replicated. no need to touch the maf sensor.


Note: all my words, no copy & paste.
 

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Cool.. In principle it sounds like you have atleast a base understanding of how ram air works. Now.. Its early in the day and many others havent seen this thread yet... Many will bash you.. Just dont freak oit when they do.. Maybe ask them to explain why they think.the way they do.. Politely of course.. a.d if yiu disagree.. Well you have a right too, but that doesnt mean you need to get defensive.. Good luck!
 

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And as another thought.. why dont you try to.find a used injen.CAI atleast the piping.. Im sure you can grt them xheap.. And then most of.your "R&D" is done.. And you can mess with yiur ram air.. Check out the 2008 mazda 6 CAI by thrm.. It wont fit but thats tbe shape you kinda want...

Pardon my spelling.. On my phone.
 

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He doesn't give up, does he? Requested that he be banned, but then keeps coming back to this site. Even admitted to thinking it was a POS forum anyway, created a thread titled "just to tell you how pathetic this forum is."
 
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