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I'm looking for a way to do my own tire rotations easier and quicker. In the past I would jack up one wheel at a time by removing the first wheel and putting the spare temporarily in it's place, then jack up the second wheel, remove the wheel and replace it with the first wheel I took off.. and continue to do the same with the 3rd and 4th wheel. Then I have to jack up the first wheel (with the spare tire) again to remove the spare and replace it with a wheel. That's way too time consuming and I have to jack up the car 5 times. So what I'm looking to do is use a hydraulic scissor jack so I can lift up an entire side of the car, front and rear, raising 2 wheels then put jack stands down to keep that side lifted. Then do the same to the other side and use 2 more jack stands so all 4 wheels are lifted up. So my question is where on the bottom of the car, both front and rear, can I use to safely lift the car? My second question is the location to place the jack stands. Thanks.
 

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2014 Mazda 3 i Touring 6MT 2.0L
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http://mazda3revolution.com/forums/...iscussion/39714-where-lift-points-2014-a.html

Here's the thread which describes where to jack the car up from. The 4 rectangles outlined along the sides are where to place the jack stands. When using a lift to jack the car up, be sure to place an obstacle opposite from where you are (i.e. if jacking up the front end, place a brick behind the rear tire on the opposite side you're jacking it up from-if lifting one corner at a time...). I use the rear "nook" where the exhaust partially covers, part of the subframe, I believe.
 

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http://mazda3revolution.com/forums/...iscussion/39714-where-lift-points-2014-a.html

Here's the thread which describes where to jack the car up from. The 4 rectangles outlined along the sides are where to place the jack stands. When using a lift to jack the car up, be sure to place an obstacle opposite from where you are (i.e. if jacking up the front end, place a brick behind the rear tire on the opposite side you're jacking it up from-if lifting one corner at a time...). I use the rear "nook" where the exhaust partially covers, part of the subframe, I believe.
I use the two centre points on mine with my low-profile jack to jack up the front, or rear at a time. I only worry about two wheels at a time, though, as I do tire rotations when I'm swapping my winter tires anyway.

If I had to have all four up at a time, I'd probably use the same two centre points, and some jack stands. That's what I've done with one of my other cars (and one of these days, I might get the wheels back on it), but it might be hard to reach, the second jacking point, depending on your jack.
 

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RTFM, section 7 page 8 under the the flat tire heading. Shows the correct jacking points, pictures and everything.
You'll need a set of good stands with pinchweld adapters to avoid crushing the pinchwelds. Another adapter on the jack too.
I find that the lift point behind the front tire will lift both tires sufficiently to remove them.

adapter on the stand


adapter on the pinchweld
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
http://mazda3revolution.com/forums/...iscussion/39714-where-lift-points-2014-a.html

Here's the thread which describes where to jack the car up from. The 4 rectangles outlined along the sides are where to place the jack stands. When using a lift to jack the car up, be sure to place an obstacle opposite from where you are (i.e. if jacking up the front end, place a brick behind the rear tire on the opposite side you're jacking it up from-if lifting one corner at a time...). I use the rear "nook" where the exhaust partially covers, part of the subframe, I believe.
This is perfect. Thanks.
 

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When I DIY rotate I do the following with a hydraulic floor jack, a hockey puck cut to be the pinch weld adapter, electric impact gun and a torque wrench. Only need to jack the car up 3 times and jack stands are used as a safety.

1 - Jack the rear of the car using the rear center jack point.
2 - Remove both rear wheels, swap rear wheels left to right. Temporarily zip each wheel back on (lightly, not over torquing by any means) with 3 - 4 lug nuts (I don't put the lock nuts back on until the end). Put the car back down
3 - Move jack to one side of the car. Place the jack with your pinch weld adapter behind one front wheel at the jack location. As noted above, from here you can jack up the whole side of the car.
4 - With the whole side of the car up remove both tires from one side and swap front to rear. Zip them back on lightly
5 - Lower the car and repeat on the other side
6 - Torque all lugs by hand in standard cris-cross pattern. Check again after 100km or so.

This is probably obvious but you only do the rear cris-cross first if your tires are non-directional. If they are directional you only need to do each side front to rear.

Make sure you're using a good quality / good capacity floor jack.
 
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