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Hey Guys!
So I bought this 2015 Mazda 3 and I've had little to complain about besides now. Obviously, Mazda has had their reputation for rust and the newer models are supposed to be better. It either doesn't seem like it or it's because I live in Montreal with the salt etc. I rustproof every year that I've owned the car
Anyways, I want to know what is the best advice/videos that you could recommend to fix this. I went to a body shop last year when I first spotted it and he quoted me $350 to fix it because it was going to be a big job. Although I love a nice clean car, it was tough to give up that much for a small blemish. This is not a showroom car so I am not looking for a perfect job but rather as best it can be job. As you can see from the picture, it is coming from 3 different spots, which I find kind of weird.
Now that it has gotten worse, I've decided to take care of it before it's too late. I know I should have done something before.
Also, I truly don't know how this really happened. I know usually this starts through a rock chip or something but I am not sure where it is on the car. Is it possible it is coming from the inside of the panel?
Gyazo
Gyazo
From last year: Gyazo

I just noticed this video that I took for myself last year behind the rocker panel.. is this what could have done this? Gyazo
 

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I don’t have these issues even though there’s a lot of salt on our roads here during the winter. The problem may very well be coming from inside, especially if it’s around the rear wheels. The thing around the wheels to prevent water to get inside is sort of a carpet in the back, to lower the noise from stones in the cabin. The carpet holds the salty water like a sponge and where it’s touching the body metal will rust. That’s why winterproofing includes removing these carpets and isolating the parts that touch the inside of the car properly.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I don’t have these issues even though there’s a lot of salt on our roads here during the winter. The problem may very well be coming from inside, especially if it’s around the rear wheels. The thing around the wheels to prevent water to get inside is sort of a carpet in the back, to lower the noise from stones in the cabin. The carpet holds the salty water like a sponge and where it’s touching the body metal will rust. That’s why winterproofing includes removing these carpets and isolating the parts that touch the inside of the car properly.
I am assuming this wouldn’t be covered under there 7 year anti-perforation warranty as there is no whole the has gone through the body panel?
 

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I am assuming this wouldn’t be covered under there 7 year anti-perforation warranty as there is no whole the has gone through the body panel?
I am assuming this wouldn’t be covered under there 7 year anti-perforation warranty as there is no whole the has gone through the body panel?
I guess the rust on the inside would cause the bubbling on the outside?
 

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Maybe view post no. 3 and post no. 4 of the above... It relates to the Mazda6 but I think the principle is the same for the Mazda3.
 

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I have heard it said that Mazda has really poor quality galvanizing.... and I attach a comment related to this.

2nd generation Mazda3's changed the rear wheel lip design... so that the outer body (the quarter panel) - along the spotweld joint with the inner fender - did not go flush with the inner fender metal; rather it went shy of the edge and therefore allowed machine-applied caulk to be run along this lap seam, all along the wheel lip. This should have made wheel lip corrosion less prevalent.

However, I believe condensation between inner and outer sheet metal (closed-in area?) may be happening here, in the OP's case. Also once the flat wheel lip surface gets rock chips and the paint is broken - that too can cause rust.

Montreal is very humid in summer... and in winter has mega amounts of snow. Lotsa de-icing salts too.

Really disappointing it's rusting; it's only a 2015 😐 .
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I have heard it said that Mazda has really poor quality galvanizing.... and I attach a comment related to this.

2nd generation Mazda3's changed the rear wheel lip design... so that the outer body (the quarter panel) - along the tackweld joint with the inner fender - did not go flush with the inner fender metal; rather it went shy of the edge and therefore allowed machine-applied caulk to be run along this lap seam, all along the wheel lip. This should have made wheel lip corrosion less prevalent.

However, I believe condensation between inner and outer sheet metal (closed-in area?) may be happening here, in the OP's case. Also once the flat wheel lip surface gets rock chips and the paint is broken - that too can cause rust.

Montreal is very humid in summer... and in winter has mega amounts of snow. Lotsa de-icing salts too.

Really disappointing it's rusting; it's only a 2015 😐 .
Do you think this would be covered under their 7-year anti-perforation warranty? Or because there is no technical hole that it won't be covered.
 

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If there is a rust bubble - it is a penetration; a hole. I believe it should be covered. Bubbles like that, at that specific location it seems to me, are caused due to moisture between wheelhouse and quarter panel causing corrosion... and i) inadequate galvanizing being evident - i.e. backside-galvanizing on two-sided galvanized sheet metal; and/or ii) inadequate paint + aluminized wax treatment of this body cavity (and that spot-welded sheet metal joint - a crevass); and/or iii) moisture BEYOND possible condensation being evident in this cavity (and possibly a plugged drain hole which should have been used for this cavity....?). Is the rear window leaking? Would THAT result in 'lotsa moisture getting in to this cavity?

I again refer you back to the link above to Mazda6club.com - with its commentary and its photo - posts no. 3 & 4.

In answer to your question: I believe it is or should be covered under warranty. The key is proving that i) it's a hole; and ii) proving that it did not start with an on-surface rock chip on the wheel lip. Look for adjacent areas to see if you have any rock chips on that wheel lip.

Regardless of who covers it / repairs it - look to solve the underlying cause - or it'll occur again. Check for how moisture gets in there and per the Mazda6club post - figure out how to protect that joint.
 

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If there is a rust bubble - it is a penetration; a hole. I believe it should be covered. Bubbles like that, at that specific location it seems to me, are caused due to moisture between wheelhouse and quarter panel causing corrosion... and i) inadequate galvanizing being evident - i.e. backside-galvanizing on two-sided galvanized sheet metal; and/or ii) inadequate paint + aluminized wax treatment of this body cavity (and that spot-welded sheet metal joint - a crevass); and/or iii) moisture BEYOND possible condensation being evident in this cavity (and possibly a plugged drain hole which should have been used for this cavity....?). Is the rear window leaking? Would THAT result in 'lotsa moisture getting in to this cavity?

I again refer you back to the link above to Mazda6club.com - with its commentary and its photo - posts no. 3 & 4.

In answer to your question: I believe it is or should be covered under warranty. The key is proving that i) it's a hole; and ii) proving that it did not start with an on-surface rock chip on the wheel lip. Look for adjacent areas to see if you have any rock chips on that wheel lip.

Regardless of who covers it / repairs it - look to solve the underlying cause - or it'll occur again. Check for how moisture gets in there and per the Mazda6club post - figure out how to protect that joint.
Thank you for helping me. Just another question; I sent Mazda Canada this last year: Gyazo and they said it was not perforation as there is no ''Hole'', do you think that is just bs? This is the damage this year, clearly didn't start from one hole.
If there is a rust bubble - it is a penetration; a hole. I believe it should be covered. Bubbles like that, at that specific location it seems to me, are caused due to moisture between wheelhouse and quarter panel causing corrosion... and i) inadequate galvanizing being evident - i.e. backside-galvanizing on two-sided galvanized sheet metal; and/or ii) inadequate paint + aluminized wax treatment of this body cavity (and that spot-welded sheet metal joint - a crevass); and/or iii) moisture BEYOND possible condensation being evident in this cavity (and possibly a plugged drain hole which should have been used for this cavity....?). Is the rear window leaking? Would THAT result in 'lotsa moisture getting in to this cavity?

I again refer you back to the link above to Mazda6club.com - with its commentary and its photo - posts no. 3 & 4.

In answer to your question: I believe it is or should be covered under warranty. The key is proving that i) it's a hole; and ii) proving that it did not start with an on-surface rock chip on the wheel lip. Look for adjacent areas to see if you have any rock chips on that wheel lip.

Regardless of who covers it / repairs it - look to solve the underlying cause - or it'll occur again. Check for how moisture gets in there and per the Mazda6club post - figure out how to protect that joint.
I appreciate you helping me. Last year I sent Mazda Canada this: Gyazo and they said that it was not perforation as there was no hole.. do you think that is bs? Here is the damage today: Gyazo .. No signs of rock chips
 

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Last year's picture appears to be next to a small imperfection / dent on the wheel lip. I am not saying that that caused the issue (in fact I don't believe it did) but they may have considered it an "out". This years' bubbles are not adjacent to any imperfections... and are more extensive. Your rust IS a breach in the continuous sheet metal panel; it is NOT a cosmetic issue; it is a hole/holes. I really, really would press them. I would also see if you can notice whether other Mazda3's of your same Gen 3 model vintage - in the Montreal area - are suffering this same corrosion.

This is really diappointing. Are current-day Mazda's STILL the RUSTBUCKETS they were in past?
 

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Be really mindful of the year and month of manufacture of your car, evident on the door jamb placard. If you were not the first owner it may be that the 7 year warranty period (for rust-through) starts then, at worst, versus the date of first registration of the car. Are you REALLY REALLY sure you do not see a hole...
 

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Be really mindful of the year and month of manufacture of your car, evident on the door jamb placard. If you were not the first owner it may be that the 7 year warranty period (for rust-through) starts then, at worst, versus the date of first registration of the car. Are you REALLY REALLY sure you do not see a hole...
Yes I do not.. :(
 

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Make a claim with mazda if your car is 2015+
Ive been having my 2012 Mazda 3 sprayed with Krown Rust Control every year i have had the car . Krown Rust Control
No rust on the rear wheel wells or trunk / hatch / 3rd light....Plus my Chassis all under parts are rust free.
 

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Suspension components are thick enough so that it’s only a visual problem and more importantly can be replaced easily. The problem are parts that can’t be (at least not easily without welding and painting afterwards) replaced.
 

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The subframes are a concern. Yes, replaceable... but very dear $. They should not rust, spalling-off layers, as the second generation Mazda6 did (it was a factory recall, BTW).

Re the OP: if the car were properly built of two-sided galvanized sheet metal (QUALITY galvanizing) and had aluminized wax treatment into the crevasse... and were properly drained - then it would not rust like than.
 
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