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True I haven't thought to flush the fluid an get all new. I'm thinking exactly the same thing but the dealership assured me it was good fuel pressure and keeping prime. I thought MAF but it's good and just replaced the ECT sensor today so we will see if that does it. Maybe it is the crankshaft. I'm tired if messing with it though lol it's been a month of me testing and checking things almost every day for an hour or two. I can't wait too see what it is at this point. It's probably something stupid and simple lol. I'll put new coolant in it tomorrow

Get the synthetic coolant on amazon premixed is all you need. The system takes almost exactly one of these.


https://www.amazon.com/Mishimoto-MMRA-LC-5050F-Synthetic-Coolant-Premixed/dp/B00U2C1KP0/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=liquid+chill+50%2F50&qid=1563927024&s=gateway&sr=8-1



-Kevin
 

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In intense heat conditions, fuel will sometimes vaporize in the fuel line rail, thus causing a starting problem. This was addressed in a Mazda document I read somewhere, perhaps on here, which said the following:

If the engine is stopped directly after driving continuously at high load, air bubbles could occur in the fuel line due to the increase in the fuel temperature by the engine heat. To prevent poor engine starting performance by air trapped in the fuel line from the occurrence of air bubbles, if the following conditions are met, the PCM operates the radiator cooling fan for a maximum period of 9 minutes: engine coolant temperature is 90°C [194 °F] or more; and accumulated heat in engine compartment is extremely high.

So, it's possible a vapor lock situation is causing or at least aggravating the hot start problems.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Well the engine coolant sensor didn't fix it but at least now I have an oem one in there. After testing different things I found that if I park in the shade I can leave it for hours and it will start up fine. It's only when left in the sun in the hot Georgia weather that it has the long crank issues and if it's hot enough I even have to press start a second time to get it going. I've tested everything I could think of with my multimeter and everything looks h fine. Maybe I should do some test after leaving in the sun but what part could be causing long crank from external great?
 

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I thought the fuel filter never had to be changed in the 3's? Am I mistaken? I thought only the diesels had changeable filters. If not that's a good point. I mean at this point I'm starting to think the dealership just didn't measure the fuel pressure and prime correctly or didn't wait long enough. Of course like I said it starts normally as long as it's not sitting in the sun when it's really hot outside
 

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My smog guy indicates that Mazdas generally have evaporation system problems. Too rich on start as indicated by hot cold cold weather statement. Open the throttle plate to allow more air in until the computer re sets after start.

On my 929 the sensors replaced did not communicate with the computer. Switched computer and checked all sensors. Both the smog guy AND the dealer (three service charges) could not find fix.

Harbor Freight Meter and 45 minutes to: Steel clamp on computer resulted in a bad terminal contact to the shielded sensor contact. FIX: replaced steel bracket with stay straps (more give).

Later developed the rich start problem also. Just played with the throttle and waiting to cool down after a stall to re start. That is why we now drive a M3 Hatchet 2015 with the last HAND BRAKE. Come on Mazda! A sports car with out a hand brake! What are you silly engineers thinking???
 

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My 2012 Elantra began exhibiting similar symptoms around age four and they were so sporadic that I didn't worry about it for the longest time until by year six they were almost constant. The variables were rock solid:

  • Hot starts were never a problem. If the car sat for around 90 minutes or less it would fire up every time.
  • Cold starts were the same. If it sat overnight or for more than about five hours, again it would start up fine and run like a champ.
  • Warm starts were where the problem tended to rear its head at first and all the time as the problem got worse. The car would run the starter motor and struggle to turn over, sputtering and coughing like it was starved for fuel but eventually, it would turn over. On one or two occasions it actually timed out the starter motor (push button start).
Once I worked out when it happened, I started digging into the why. First thing I replaced was the battery which seemed to solve it for about a week and a half and then it slowly started coming back. Shortly after replacing the battery we got into winter and the problem disappeared once more, only to return in the spring. Next thing I replaced were, like you, the spark plugs and soon thereafter, the coil packs. Neither had any appreciable change.

Speaking to a master Hyundai tech I knew on the forums, he suggested I look into the fuel pump. Googling around found numerous Hyundai/Kia owners of vehicles of similar vintage to my Elantra reporting the exact same problem under identical circumstances. One such post narrowed the issue down to the drainback valve in the fuel pump. This keeps pressure in the fuel lines and prevents the gasoline/petrol from draining back into the tank once the engine shuts off. I ordered a new fuel pump and a few days later, a friend came by to help me install it.

Following instructions from the Hyundai tech, I set about depressurizing the fuel system. Per his direction, we disconnected the power to the fuel pump and then started the engine, proceeding to run it until all the fuel in the lines was exhausted and it died. The engine never turned over. It was at that moment I knew we were on the right track.

Long story short, the new pump went in and the problem never came back.
 

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I thought the fuel filter never had to be changed in the 3's? Am I mistaken? I thought only the diesels had changeable filters. If not that's a good point. I mean at this point I'm starting to think the dealership just didn't measure the fuel pressure and prime correctly or didn't wait long enough. Of course like I said it starts normally as long as it's not sitting in the sun when it's really hot outside
Hello!
Did you solve the problem?
I have the same problem in a 2017 Mazda Cx5
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Hello!
Did you solve the problem?
I have the same problem in a 2017 Mazda Cx5
Nope I am still having the same issues. hot or cold ive had the car over a year now and just about every other time I go to start it It will turn over but not start but almost always starts second try if not then 3rd. I have no other issues at all and taken it to the mazda dealership twice and another mechanic shop no luck. Asked anyone that I could think and many forums. I gave up. Just living with it now. Craziest thing.
 

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The main relay is known to keep your car from starting until it cools off. It's usually a cheaper part. Swap that and see if it helps. I have seen this issue mostly on older cars. Are there any codes when you scan?

 
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