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Discussion Starter #1
Tried installing the front Megan H-brace yesterday on my 2016 hatch. Front attachment points fit fine. The rear points, that mount to the subframe, did not line up. The bar was too narrow, by about 1/4-1/2". I tried loading the suspension, unloading the suspension, loading one side or the other, nothing.

Is there some kind of trick to installing this? I figured it was a dead simple install.

Maybe the bar I received was poorly made and thus, too narrow? I suppose there is an off chance the car was wrecked, subframe was tweaked and that's why the bar doesn't fit (Carfax says no wrecks, FWIW)? I don't know anyone else with a Gen 3 to try and test fit it, to see if my car is the issue.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
No pictures, didn't think to take any.

I can get one of the rear bolts threaded just fine, but the second bolt doesn't line up. I tried threading the first bolt just a couple turns, about halfway in, almost all the way in, and then torqued all the way in.

I stole this image from @arathol to help visualize the issue.
 

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Can take measurement between center to center of the rear mounting holes and verify with someone. Or bend down one or both rear legs to see if you can extend another 1/4 or 1/2 in? Or leave 3 bolts in place, put a 2x4 on a floor jack and put pressure on the flat area see if you can stretch the legs a little.
 

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Just a thought but did you torque the first bolt before trying to install the other? Leave all the bolts loose while installing then torque them once all 4 are in. There might be enough play to get the other bolt in.
 

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Definitely sounds like a poorly drilled brace to me.

Either drill out the hole to make it fit or start the return process.

But who’s to say the replacement brace will be from a difference manufacturing batch and not the same POS?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Can take measurement between center to center of the rear mounting holes and verify with someone. Or bend down one or both rear legs to see if you can extend another 1/4 or 1/2 in? Or leave 3 bolts in place, put a 2x4 on a floor jack and put pressure on the flat area see if you can stretch the legs a little.
I should take measurements and see if anyone can compare, good thought. I'm hesitant to start bending it or dremeling out wider holes (someone else mentioned this), that's kind of a last resort.


Just a thought but did you torque the first bolt before trying to install the other? Leave all the bolts loose while installing then torque them once all 4 are in. There might be enough play to get the other bolt in.
I left all the bolts loose when installing. Only threaded in enough to keep the brace and bolt from falling to the ground.


But who’s to say the replacement brace will be from a difference manufacturing batch and not the same POS?
I had the same thought as well. If it's a whole batch or run of braces that's bad, the seller likely has more of the same bad batch. I was hoping I was just an idiot when installing and missing something. I've reached out the seller, we'll see what's next.

Thanks for the ideas everyone!
 

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you should double check the part# on the box it came with against someone else's part# on here who has one that fits.
 

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Tried installing the front Megan H-brace yesterday on my 2016 hatch. Front attachment points fit fine. The rear points, that mount to the subframe, did not line up. The bar was too narrow, by about 1/4-1/2". I tried loading the suspension, unloading the suspension, loading one side or the other, nothing.

Is there some kind of trick to installing this? I figured it was a dead simple install.

Maybe the bar I received was poorly made and thus, too narrow? I suppose there is an off chance the car was wrecked, subframe was tweaked and that's why the bar doesn't fit (Carfax says no wrecks, FWIW)? I don't know anyone else with a Gen 3 to try and test fit it, to see if my car is the issue.
I installed the same one on my 17’ Mazda3 and I also experienced it being a pain to line the holes up. I left all bolts loose and I had to use a floor jack and a block of wood then applied pressure to the center of the front brace and it spread the holes just wide enough to get them to thread in. I love the H-brace bit the only con I have found is the loss of ground clearance.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I'll try that this weekend. I had a similar thought, but figured I was installing it wrong! I'll update with final results.
 

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I installed the same one on my 17’ Mazda3 and I also experienced it being a pain to line the holes up. I left all bolts loose and I had to use a floor jack and a block of wood then applied pressure to the center of the front brace and it spread the holes just wide enough to get them to thread in. I love the H-brace bit the only con I have found is the loss of ground clearance.
Is your car lowered? And did you bottom out? I figure it’s not at the front or rear so it can’t be that bad.

How does it change the ride, if any? And what suspensions upgrades have you done before this?

Thx
 

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Is your car lowered? And did you bottom out? I figure it’s not at the front or rear so it can’t be that bad.

How does it change the ride, if any? And what suspensions upgrades have you done before this?

Thx
My car is lowered. I hit one of the front mount points once on a steep driveway approach. It is at the front, right between the front tires. Does not change the ride but the front end is more stable, less deflection caused by strut movement.
 

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My car is lowered. I hit one of the front mount points once on a steep driveway approach. It is at the front, right between the front tires. Does not change the ride but the front end is more stable, less deflection caused by strut movement.
If I recall your car lowered with H&R, more than an inch? Does it mean turnings will be a little more crisp ? That’s what I am hoping for.

Thx
 

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I think I may need to invest in one of these... considering getting a front sway bar too now... a little less body roll up front would be nice.

You guys find any discounts when shopping for it?
CK
 

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Its not about body roll, body roll is not a bad thing as it keeps weight on the outside tires when cornering. Its about weight transfer and balance. The larger rear bar reduces under steer by reducing roll. Less rear roll means less weight transfer to the outside tire, so there is less traction. So, the front has more grip compared to the rear than it did with a smaller bar. As a result the rear wheels will slide easier and the front will go around a corner without pushing as much. A larger front bar doesn't do much to change this at normal speeds, but when pushed to the limits it will allow some under steer so you don't end up with snap over steer.
 

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When you install the Megan H-brace, is your front suspension loaded? Or does it make any difference to the fitment ? Op mentioned he tried both but I just want to make sure the correct way to start with.

I am a little concerned about the fitment now since mine is also a 17. It’s strange that Megan website still lists this part # SB-HBM314-R only for the Cx5, nothing for Mz3. You would think most buyers are 3 owners.

Amillion3 and Rickman, which seller on eBay did you buy yours from? I want to stay away from their batch. Lol...
 

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Its the same chassis. Lots of stuff fits both.:smile2:

I did mine with the car on stands, but just to keep a jack on the subframe when removing the bolts. You could almost certainly do the same using ramps but the jack stands can get you more room under the car.
 
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