2004 to 2016 Mazda 3 Forum and Mazdaspeed 3 Forums banner

21 - 40 of 44 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
In the old days when this sort of thing happened, we'd hit the starter motor with a hammer, heavy screwdriver or something solid....not to heard but just hard enough to dislodge the starter solenoid that supplies power to the starter motor. This solenoid I mention sits on top of the starter and meshes the starter pinion with the ring gear on the flywheel to rotate the engine and start.
What happens is the solenoid basically freezes solid and cannot move - hitting the starter motor with a hammer/whatever jars the solenoid and then it can work. You turn the key to start and....nothing..no click..no dimming of lights.
Modern starters work exactly the same, so (if you are game) locate the starter and next time the car refuses to turn over try jarring the starter and see what happens.
Just a thought.

Good Luck.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
244 Posts
I agree with some of the others here: REPLACE YOUR FOB BATTERY. Don't go looking for other problems until you have fixed the simplest thing first! Yes, banging on the starter can help if it is indeed a starter problem, but let's just replace a battery before swinging a hammer.

The battery is a CR2025. You can get a 2 pack for $1 at any local dollar store. There are instructions for replacement in your owners manual, plus YouTube videos.

From reading here, it's apparent that Mazda fob batteries last about 2 years with regular use, which is probably why this issue is happening to 2014-2015 models. Next year it will be 2016, and so on. My 2015 fob battery started giving me problems almost EXACTLY 2 years from the day I bought it. I replaced the fob battery and it's totally fine now.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
I've been reading through a few of these and they have some similarities to the issue I'm having with my 2011 Mazda3 S GT. I have 2 fobs each with their own emergency key. Fob #1 works fine in every regard. The issue w/Fob 2 is : I am able to unlock/lock doors and operate trunk from a distance, but when I get in the car and depress the brake I get the message that no key is recognized. However, if I then remove the emergency key from the fob and insert it in the "ignition", it is recognized and I can start the car w/pushbutton. Everything I've read points to the fob being in a "suspend" mode, but the instructions of pressing the unlock button have no effect. Is this indeed in suspend mode, or something else ?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
67 Posts
I'm experiencing the same problem but mine has a solid green key light indicator. However my button flashes amber. Here's the clip...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
I experienced this same problem on my Mazda 3 2015 today. Went to work and tried starting the vehicle with no luck. The green indicator light would not come on, nor would it blink amber. Holding the key fob near the start/stop button didn't work either. Oddly, I was able to get it working by pushing down harder on the brake pedal and firmer. Seems to be an issue with the brake not being detected. Anyone else experience this?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
Is The Car In Gear? Must be in Park!

I know this sounds stupid but I admit it, I am stupid! Or at least overloaded.

I had this issue. I turned my car off to dump some trash for a minute. Turned the car off. Left the key in the car. When I got back, the Start/Stop light was red. I had the key in the car. Couldn't get it to start. Tried everything. Wouldn't start. Had someone drive me home to get my spare key thinking it was the key. Spare key didn't start it. I called the dealership. They suggested I tow the car to them. I looked online, found this and tried everything. Nada. I called another dealership in another state that I had dealt with before. They said, is the car in Park? I looked and no, it wasn't. I put the car in Park and voila!

The first dealer did not think of this. They were already on to bigger issues. Sometimes, the simplest thing really is the right thing.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
629 Posts
Discussion Starter #27
I experienced this same problem on my Mazda 3 2015 today. Went to work and tried starting the vehicle with no luck. The green indicator light would not come on, nor would it blink amber. Holding the key fob near the start/stop button didn't work either. Oddly, I was able to get it working by pushing down harder on the brake pedal and firmer. Seems to be an issue with the brake not being detected. Anyone else experience this?
See post 14 above. I suspected then, and still do now, that I wasn't pressing hard enough on the brake pedal. I've had no further problems by pushing down a little more firmly on the pedal.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
See post 14 above. I suspected then, and still do now, that I wasn't pressing hard enough on the brake pedal. I've had no further problems by pushing down a little more firmly on the pedal.
I've had similar issues the past month, and it does seem to be a faulty brake switch. But it's hard to replicate at a dealership because it doesn't happen all the time. There are times when I'm driving and the abs and tire pressure lights blink amber, and when I'm braking at night I don't see the glow of my brake lights all the time.

Do you guys think the dealership will fix this for me? Or am I better off replacing the brake switch myself.

I'm now over 3 years from purchasing... How convenient -__-"
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
Did you get this resolved?
What was the solution to the problem?
My Vehicle details:

Mazda 6 SE-L NAV D (Wagon / Estate)
Reg: 2013
Cylinder capacity: 2191
Fuel: Diesel
Transmission: Manual
Vehicle Type: GJ
Engine No: SH
Manufactured: Japan

I became the proud owner of the above vehicle in January 2018
After a few months of trouble free driving, I'm now having starting problems using the "STOP / START Engine button"

Having Googled the problem most comments pointed it to be a car battery / key fob battery issue
I called Yuasa (original battery manufacturer) and from the imprint on the casing they were able to identify it to be just over 4 years old

I'd already purchased a 7 stage battery charger (includes de-sulfation) designed for stop/start batteries in readiness for this
The battery would not charge above 80%

I decided to purchase a brand new start/stop Yuasa (YBX7335 [T110] EFB) battery and at the same time replaced the key fob battery (CR2025)

At the same time I tested the voltage using a multimeter and got 12.58V (no load) / 13.83V (2000rpm + full load)
This suggested the alternator is fine and charging the battery normally

All good so far - you'd think

The car has a mind of its own still and starts when it wants to or rebells by displaying a flashing amber LED on the start/stop engine button and not turn over

This has become very frustrating for me as it's left me stranded a number of times

I double lock the car with the remote key fob, walk away and after 5-10 minutes I'd unlock the car and try my luck to start it
Sometimes it will oblige and at other times will turn its nose up at me !

Not sure if the present hot weather has a connection with this?
Seems to generally start better when cold?

I took it to a garage (non-Mazda) that had 'Snap-On' diagnostic equipment - no fault codes detected

2010 + Mazdas use HS2, HS3 through MS-CAN protocol, so I've ordered a 'ELM327 Bluetooth V1.5 modified OBD2 unit' in the hope I can find the underlying fault
and get a chance to fix the problem without going to the main dealer and paying exorbitant prices

Seb78 - mentioned replacing the 'immobilisation module' in this thread
Could this be the underlying cause of the problem?

Would really like to hear if anyone else has had these problems and what the solution to it was....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
Yep, I tried the "dead battery key" technique, without good results.

I wonder how it's supposed to work. Is their a second "reserve" battery hidden inside the keyhead that somehow triggers something when the key is put in physical contact with the start button?

Ah, the mysteries of wireless technology.
Having similar problems with my 6 month old Maz3. After 3 months I couldn't find car at airport - at night - and spent about 1/2 hour continually pressing remote. Thought nothing of it. A few weeks later car wouldn't start when away from home. Eventually it did start - for no obvious reason. I replaced the battery in remote - seemed to be ok. 6 weeks later - same problem - was again out but able to get a new remote battery. One week later (probably the next time I used the car) was taking my wife to hospital and do you think the car would start ? No. Was home, but in a hurry so didn't think the see if spare remote worked. Seems to be ok now - but I just don't know what the problem actually is . I'll get another lot of remoted batteries and use the spare as my main. But noting that other people have had the same issue - I am not confident that car won't let me down at an inopportune time. (I'm in Australia)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,699 Posts
This is common....your remote's batt terminals need cleaning. Do that every batt swap.:)

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
553 Posts
Another thing you should do is remove the battery from the remote and press and hold for several seconds the buttons on the remote. This serves the same purpose as removing a battery from a laptop computer e.g. to remove any charge which could cause erratic behavior. People forget this simple solution which can fix a lot of electronic equipment.

Probably not an issue here, but I was also going to suggest you consider where you store your remote when at home...or the majority of the time in relation to the car. The closer the remote is to the car when not in use, the quicker the battery will die...as the remote is always communicating with the car when it is within a certain range....and not just a couple of feet regardless of pushing any buttons on the remote...it's what happens with new keyless entry remote technology, vs. an old school key fob that only communicated with the car when you pushed the button to unlock/lock.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
2014 3s here - same problem. I jiggle the shift, push a few buttons, eventually it starts but I too do not think my ministrations have anything to do with it. Disconcerting indeed - especially with long winter road trips in the offing. Read a Consumer Reports issue on resale value and 2014 3 scored above average on everything except onboard electronics, where it got the lowest possible score. Is Mazda doing anything about this?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
I have exact same issue w/ 2015 Maz3 2.OL SA. Intermittent starts, adding pressure to brake and braking before I hit start seems to correct it. ABS, TCS and TPMS were lit, no DTC's detected tho. Battery replaced, was bad. Dash lights are off now. FOB battery is good.

New battery may be bad, so testing it too. WTF is this?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
Anyone have any insights on this?

My problem is similar to everyone else but slightly different. 2015 Mazda 3 Sedan. Car started having problems recognizing fob to start 1-2 weeks ago. Car will eventually recognize the key randomly after anywhere from 1 to 5 min of fob being in car. Does the same thing using the fob touching the start button trick. Tried both fobs. Locks and proximity lock work perfectly and I even replaced the batteries on both fobs just to rule that out. When the car does recognize the key, it has no problem turning over and starting. Tried disconnecting and reconnecting car battery.

Traction control lights go on and off randomly while driving also

I’m going to get my car battery checked before taking it to the dealership next week but thought I’d ask to see if anyone else has experienced this...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
So I have had all these issue. Initially I assumed weather was playing a role, but I have tested it at both extremes. I have a 2015 Mazda 3 hatchback, btw.
So I pressed the brake hard, I used both keys. I am going to change out the fob on both keys and clean the terminals.

Another issue I had that I didn't read about were certain dashboard lights coming on. When I did NOT have an issue starting it up, my dashboard was clear. When I had an issue starting it and it eventually started, the tire pressure light came on along with the traction control light. They stayed on for the duration of the drive. I was going to take it to the dealership, but I will try the brake sensor replacement and fob replacements and the main battery, just to troubleshoot first.

My question was whether or not anyone else had dashboard lights come on, as well?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
COnfirmed, it is the brake sensor still. Brake sensor is causing the lights to go off, for some reason. I should have tried it first, instead I took it into the dealership for a nice 125$ diagnosis...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,868 Posts
Ouch..sorry you had that happen.
CK
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
I don't think it is the car battery. The starter is strong when the green key light does come on, whereas a bad battery would usually cause the characteristic click-click solenoid sound and/or cause the sound of a struggling starter if/when the engine does turn over.

I've tried walking away with the key in an effort to get "out of range" to try to get the car to say to itself, "Hey, look here, the key is coming, let's get ready to start this baby up." After several tries of doing the same things, eventually I get the car to start, but it doesn't seem to have a direct relationship to the "walk away and come back" technique.

Thanks for the responses. If there are any other victims out there, let us know. I'll try to get a response from the dealership Monday and mention resetting the "immobilizer." I just hate to leave the car there for a few days to get them to "replicate" the problem, which my luck says won't happen there, but will in the parking lot of a hotel somewhere out there when I'll have to call a wrecker to come haul in the evidence.
I am currently experiencing this exact issue with my 2016 CX5. Did you happen to have this issue resolved?
 
21 - 40 of 44 Posts
Top