2004 to 2016 Mazda 3 Forum and Mazdaspeed 3 Forums banner

1 - 20 of 44 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
641 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
After my 2015 Mazda3 with the 2.0 engine sits unused a couple of days, I sometimes have a problem getting it to start. It doesn't seem to acknowledge either of my keys. When I touch the brake the green key light doesn't come on, or if it does it just flashes and goes dark. I try repeatedly to get it to work, including using the dead-key-battery technique of pushing the start buttion with the keyhead, but no go. Only after several attempts of trying several things does the key light suddenly come on and the car starts like it's supposed to. My car battery voltage is good, at 12.7 volts.

Once started, the car doesn't give me any such problems the rest of the day or for several days thereafter.

Does anyone else have this problem and, if so, what fixed it? I would (will) bring it to the dealership, but since it's an intermittent problem and only happens occasionally, I'm likely to get a "We can't replicate the problem" response. I hate to wait until it leaves me somewhere, but I may have to.

I might note that after I agreed to buy the car, the sales crew couldn't get the ignition to work on the showroom floor. Without checking the battery voltage or anything else, they figured someone had left the interior light on and ran the battery down. After they hooked up the battery charger, it started. They thought it was a dead battery. But in retrospect, I bet it was exhibiting my present problem.

I've had this 2015 car for several weeks and love it! My mileage as recorded on Fuelly is at an average of 41.3 mpg during the first 1000 miles. I drive it mostly on longer highway trips. It's a great car in every respect except for the one problem cited above.

Thanks for any help.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,729 Posts
Might just be a faulty battery. Have it tested or ask the dealership for a trial batt swap. Don't just rely on voltage reading. If symptoms persist, have em look into resetting your immobilizer.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
578 Posts
I had an issue exactly like this a while back, but it only happens once every now and then. The first time I was completely stumped why the car wasn't registering the key.

So I figured the car must not have detected the key within its proximity (I had no idea how I came to that conclusion at the time) and I just exit the car and walk a sure distance away from it to where I know it wouldn't registrar the key and simply walk back into it.

Sure enough the key light on the dash lit up and everything seemed to work fine.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
641 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
I don't think it is the car battery. The starter is strong when the green key light does come on, whereas a bad battery would usually cause the characteristic click-click solenoid sound and/or cause the sound of a struggling starter if/when the engine does turn over.

I've tried walking away with the key in an effort to get "out of range" to try to get the car to say to itself, "Hey, look here, the key is coming, let's get ready to start this baby up." After several tries of doing the same things, eventually I get the car to start, but it doesn't seem to have a direct relationship to the "walk away and come back" technique.

Thanks for the responses. If there are any other victims out there, let us know. I'll try to get a response from the dealership Monday and mention resetting the "immobilizer." I just hate to leave the car there for a few days to get them to "replicate" the problem, which my luck says won't happen there, but will in the parking lot of a hotel somewhere out there when I'll have to call a wrecker to come haul in the evidence.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
81 Posts
Just for grins, have you tried the procedure for starting when the fob battery goes bad?

Push the brake pedal, or the clutch pedal if you have a manual transmission. This will cause the indicator light in the Start / Stop button to flash green. While it flashes, touch the back side of the key fob to the Start / Stop button, which will cause the green indicator light to stop flashing and remain lit. Push the Start / Stop button to start the engine as normal
Although you said it happens with both keys... I'd be very surprised if both of their batteries are bad. Can't hurt to try anyway.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
641 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Yep, I tried the "dead battery key" technique, without good results.

I wonder how it's supposed to work. Is their a second "reserve" battery hidden inside the keyhead that somehow triggers something when the key is put in physical contact with the start button?

Ah, the mysteries of wireless technology.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
81 Posts
Yep, I tried the "dead battery key" technique, without good results.

I wonder how it's supposed to work. Is their a second "reserve" battery hidden inside the keyhead that somehow triggers something when the key is put in physical contact with the start button?

Ah, the mysteries of wireless technology.
Well, it was worth a shot ...

I have no idea how that works. One would think if the battery is dead, then it's dead. Just add it to the ever-growing list of stuff that doesn't make sense to me ...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
46 Posts
Some of the Mazda3's and 6's at work do this. Usually on warmer days for some reason. Also, the Mazda3's with a 3 instead of a J in the VIN have a hard time holding a charge and will sometimes not start whether or not the battery is flat. The dead-remote-battery method usually remedies this, though.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
28 Posts
Yep, I tried the "dead battery key" technique, without good results.

I wonder how it's supposed to work. Is their a second "reserve" battery hidden inside the key head that somehow triggers something when the key is put in physical contact with the start button?

Ah, the mysteries of wireless technology.
Dealer told me the key head has an RFID chip in it, which the car reads in order to start in emergencies. Not sure how much credibility to give that though...he is a dealer. :|
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
28 Posts
Dealer told me the key head has an RFID chip in it, which the car reads in order to start in emergencies. Not sure how much credibility to give that though...he is a dealer. :|
That's correct. The chip in your fob is detectable at very close proximity. The chip doesn't need a power source. It's a form of NFC just like "tap and pay" or those hotel cards that work by touching the card to the door handle.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
88 Posts
Pretty unusual that even the proximity failsafe doesn't do the trick. Not sure what to make of that...

I haven't ever experienced this in either of my Mazdas. Very unusual.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
641 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
Well, I'm the Original Poster and am happy to report my Mazda3 is no longer exhibiting what I described in Post #1 .

I'm now wondering if my problem was that I wasn't depressing the brake pedal hard enough. I originally thought the key system was looking at the brake light switch to verify it's OK to start, so I may have been just lightly pressing the pedal. Now I'm wondering if it is looking for a certain hydraulic pressure from the brake fluid to click the switch.

In any case, my car is operating as advertised and I'm besting the MPGs predicted by the EPA. Goody.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
I am having a similar problem to those listed above. I was having what seems like intermittent problems with my 2014 Mazda 3 - lock/unlock button sometimes worked, push button sometimes worked etc. Now it appears that things have gotten worse. Neither one of my fobs can be used to unlock/lock doors or open the trunk. I had my battery checked by a AAA person and the reading was "good". He showed me the trick of toughing the fab to the start button. That is now the only way that I can start my car - works every time. Just using my finger on the start button no longer works. Any suggestions?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
73 Posts
Regardless of the fob battery tests, I would replace the fob battery. It's easy to do and only costs a few pennies. The batteries are reputed to not last long, which has been my experience. If yours is a 2014 model I would expect it to be on its second, if not third battery by now.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
Starting issue

I have à similar problem with My Mazda 3 2006.

Starter works usually fine. In some warm days usually when the motor is warm (after 1h or 2h driving) when I park the car and try to start after 10-15 min the car wont start. All of the lamps and indicators are fine but when I try to start nothing happens. In some cases when I tried to start the car after 30 minutes it worked without problem. I have replaced the battery but it did not helped.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
I have à similar problem with My Mazda 3 2006.

Starter works usually fine. In some warm days usually when the motor is warm (after 1h or 2h driving) when I park the car and try to start after 10-15 min the car wont start. All of the lamps and indicators are fine but when I try to start nothing happens. In some cases when I tried to start the car after 30 minutes it worked without problem. I have replaced the battery but it did not helped.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
67 Posts
did anyone find a solution to this problem? I had the same symptoms but thought it was the battery so i got it replaced after 3.5 years of use (2014 mazda 3). After a new battery, it happened the 2 days later but only once. Was there a tsb on this? engine starter problem? with a new battery I expect it to turn on the engine 100% of the time but that ONE time it blinked amber light on the push to start button worries me.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
644 Posts
Do your start problems occur in the same location? If so, it's possible there may be a source of RF interference which is affecting the car's sensors.
 
1 - 20 of 44 Posts
Top