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If the dealer installs your CarPlay retrofit kit, he has to install the latest FW 70.00.352 (or .335) and this will overwrite any tweak (including ID7). The installation of tweaks via USB then is not possible any more. Except if you do the serial access and install the FW again (see www.mazdatweaks.com/id7).

If you do the retrofit installation by yourself, you can decide to update to FW 70.00.100 before installing hub/cables. With this version you can still install tweaks via USB, as you installed ID7 tweak from AIO already, which works up to/including 70.00.100.
 

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Double post from the AIO thread, if this upsets anybody or is against the rules, I'm sorry and can delete this post. I'm just trying to get as much feedback/information as I can so I don't ruin the CMU on my car. I've done a bunch of googling and trying to find videos on YouTube, but there aren't that many videos in English, and none that really highlights my scenario to my knowledge.

"Hello everybody! New to this forum as I've never been brave enough or had any care to mod my car. My last car was a 2011 Mazda3 i Sport, today I just bought a 2016 Mazda3 i GT and am loving it. I did check the CMU version on it and remember it being fairly low, in the 50's for sure (I can confirm the exact version later today), definitely somewhere between 55 and 59 though. Anyways, I've been doing a lot of research on tweaks and stuff with updating and am liking the idea of being able to customize the infotainment system.

I want to install tweaks, but my biggest concern with doing this is that I have plans in the future to get the dealer-installed CarPlay (I'd do it myself but I don't trust myself to do it without messing up the wiring or trim somehow lol). Is there a certain order of operations that I should do in terms of installing tweaks, updating, etc. to prepare myself in a way where the dealer won't screw me over in terms of having tweaks? A better way to word that, will I be able to have tweaks at the same time as the dealer-installed CarPlay, will I need to install tweaks beforehand or something that allows me to install them after the CarPlay install? I'm aware that once I hit the higher versions, I'll lose USB access. I'm just unsure of the order I need to do things to make sure that I'll at least still be able to have serial access after the dealer installs CarPlay. Also, when I'm restricted to using serial access to install tweaks, is this something I have to do every time I start my car or is this a one time deal, I guess the same question applies to USB access as I'll be using that until I get CarPlay installed.

I really love the work you guys have put into this and really appreciate the continued dedication to it! Thank you! Honestly, I feel like I could ask a million questions about this and don't know if I'd be able to do it all through typing hahaha."

EDIT: Solved, thanks to the help of @Tristan-cx5, I'm fully set up with ID7 and USB access for tweaks at 70.00.100, decided to go ahead with the retrofit myself. I know it's not a huge feat, but it's a big deal to me as I just got the car and didn't want to ruin the CMU. Thank you for all of your help!!
 

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Hi everyone,
Recently a new version of he infotainment system FW v70.00.335-C NA was found to have as part of its update process a highly unnecessary, destructive little script called "neutralizeid7" which DIRECTLY TARGETS ITS USERS BY PREFORMING THE UNDESIRABLE ACTION OF REMOVING THE RECOVERY THAT WE USE TO KEEP OUR SYSTEMS OPEN, CUSTOMIZEABLE AND WELL... OURS!!! This incredibly destructive script once again acts kind of like ransomware without the ransom and it wipes out all the recovery files, not that they would work after the update anyways for even the mechanism that would run those files during system boot time is also removed, and just locks you out so completely even connecting to the serial port will no longer work. As of right now, this new FW is only available online for NA region AFAIK and I haven't heard of anyone being updated to it by their dealership yet so even though I am extremely busy these days I took the time to think about how to stay one step ahead and I rewrote the recovery scripts so that the update will think it removed the recovery but really the new recovery slips them right back in there and will even add the required lines of code back to certain files to make the whole thing work again. Early awareness of all this will help minimize the amount of users that loose access to their systems but THIS WILL ONLY WORK IF YOU INSTALL IT BEFORE UPDATING, IF YOU UPDATE TO V70.00.335+ WITHOUT THIS RECOVERY INSTALLED THERE IS NO CHANCE OF EVER TWEAKING YOUR SYSTEM AGAIN, SERIAL CONNECTION WILL NOT EVEN WORK ANYMORE!

So here is the new ID7_V2 recovery but I need a brave soul to test one thing about it. Insofar as the main functionality of these scripts which is to run the tweaks installer for FW v59.00.502+ it works perfectly and exactly the same as the previous id7 recovery. Also, updating to any FW below v70.00.335 will also work as expected but updating to v70.00.335 is right now untested and that is the part I need someone to confirm for me.
So just to reiterate if you want to install this go ahead, it is safe and works exactly like the old version but unless you are that brave tester I am seeking I would wait to update to v70.00.335+ until the test is confirmed. I will update this post after that happens. UPDATE: ID7 Recovery v2
Happy Hacking My Friends,
~Trez
U

How do you verify you hace instaled correctly the ID7 recovery?
 

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Tengo un cx-5 2016 en México con fw 70.00.335, intento instalar ID7 v2, reinstalando la misma versión .335, ejecuté la actualización como dice en ID7 Recovery v2, última actualización y en ningún momento me conecté a la conexión en serie, ¿cómo debo hacerlo? o es posible reinstalar una versión anterior?
 

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@Gusbar : Please edit your post and write in english, as english is theonly language of this forum. This way everyone can read your post and you might increase the chance get help/an answer. Thanks.
 

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Yes, something must have happened with my translator since my English is not good, I have version 70.00.335 in my mazda cx-5 2016, try to install ID7v2 by reinstalling the same version 355 as it says in ID7 Recovery v2 , but at no time could I make the serial connection, I was physically connected but in putty no text appeared to me, in the USB-TTL if only the red RX led lights up, is it the only thing it does, how should I do it? or can an older version be installed?
 

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It seems that your cables have no connection to the CMU. Try to remove more insulation, so that your bare wire gets longer and put them in the 2S/2T slots farther than you think they have to be. And do not forget to connect the 3rd wire to Ground. This site about serial access basic knowledge you most probably know already? Serial Connection and for special ID7v2 for .335 and .352: ID7 Recovery v2

An older version could be installed, but if you choose e.g. 59.00.545 you still would need to do the serial access ID7v2, as you downgraded from .335. I think I read, that you could downgrade to 59.00.502 and then use the old serial access from www.mazdatweaks.com - but still it`s a serial access (with cables connected necessary) and there is no way around, if you want to install tweaks via USB.

If you will not success with your cables, there are two more options:
  • Opening the CMU and soldering the cables to the platine - photos of that are somewhere here in the forum
  • Buying proper Pins and crimp them to cables and insert them in the connector - see this post and the following ones for more details
 

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It seems that your cables have no connection to the CMU. Try to remove more insulation, so that your bare wire gets longer and put them in the 2S/2T slots farther than you think they have to be. And do not forget to connect the 3rd wire to Ground. This site about serial access basic knowledge you most probably know already? Serial Connection and for special ID7v2 for .335 and .352: ID7 Recovery v2

An older version could be installed, but if you choose e.g. 59.00.545 you still would need to do the serial access ID7v2, as you downgraded from .335. I think I read, that you could downgrade to 59.00.502 and then use the old serial access from www.mazdatweaks.com - but still it`s a serial access (with cables connected necessary) and there is no way around, if you want to install tweaks via USB.

If you will not success with your cables, there are two more options:
  • Opening the CMU and soldering the cables to the platine - photos of that are somewhere here in the forum
  • Buying proper Pins and crimp them to cables and insert them in the connector - see this post and the following ones for more details
Apparently if I am doing it as you mention it, will there be any way to know if the USB-TTL adapter works? otherwise I will try another and stripping the cable more. Thank you.
 

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I do not know, perhaps someone else knows that. My USB-TTL Adapter has no LEDs at all. It might be that it is broken and you need a new one... but first I would try stripping the cables some more.
 

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Apparently if I am doing it as you mention it, will there be any way to know if the USB-TTL adapter works? otherwise I will try another and stripping the cable more. Thank you.
A fast way to check the adapter is to connect the transmit and receive wires together. That way any key-presses will be echoed back to the screen. If nothing echos back you have an issue with the software/drivers or adapter.
 

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Anyone tried the ID7v2 at the new 70.00.367 NA ?
My two tests were not successful.
  • After the first FW install, I could not paste anything in Putty (serial access).
  • After the second FW install, I could paste the command and hit enter, but then nothing happend. FAT32 USB Stick with XX-folder from www.mazdatweaks.com/id7 was inserted in usb hub:
    277302
Perhaps someone else (@Trezdog44 ?) can try or have a look at code changes of .367 NA compared to .354 NA?

Edit: Third FW install of .367 - same result:
277309


277310


277311


...nothing happens after hitting return/enter. :-(

This time I tried another (also often used before) USB stick:
277312
 

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Perhaps I made some mistake I am not aware of. As Albuyeh stated here, that the neutralise ID7 script in .367 stayed the same as in .335.

Downgrading from .367 still seems to be possible, as I had .367 and .100 at the 3rd USB Stick and I could select to which version I want to update to. Obviously I selected .367 only so far, as I tried to do the ID7v2.
 

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I did, nothing happened. After hitting enter, nothing happens, other than the green cursor switching to the next row.

And after the reboot no login was possible with user/jci or cmu/jci. It tells me "invalid login" or something similar.
 

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I just wanted to chime in that I am getting the same behavior as Tristan-cx5 on my 2017 Mazda CX-5 after upgrading to v70.00.367a NA. I am using a CH341A for my usb to serial interface. I am able to view everything being transmitted by the CMU but am only able to transmit during the initial power up of the head unit but can never get past the login prompt. I am unable to transmit after the firmware is installed before I cycle ACC to load the new firmware.
 

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I mean the change must be in the .367 update.up file. I did some comparison of the neutralizeid7 and updatepasswd scripts and it looks to be the same. I'll do more in-depth analysis soon.
 

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Okay so there is clearly something in V70.00.367 that breaks autorun that goes beyond the ID7 V2 tweak of running command while (re)installing V70.00.335.

I downloaded both .up files for V70.00.335 & V70.00.367, extracted them using the password and ran gzip -dr cmu150_NA_70.00.*_update.up to unzip all .gz files.

Then I diff'd both folders using WInMerge just to see which files are different:
277343


If anyone knows what any of the following files do or how to read them, please let me know or message me. These are the specific files that have changed
  • sta8088_arm9_bootloader_image.bin (V335/352 are identical but V367 has been modified)
  • sta8088_arm9_firmware_image.bin (V335/352 are identical but V367 has been modified)
  • image-vip_appvfbl.mot
  • vcm
  • image-app.mot
  • image-vip_appvfbl.mot
  • image-vip_complete.mot
 

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If you installed .367 NA (at which the ID7v2 seems not to work), you can go back to .335 NA and do the ID7v2 at the end of the FW downgrade (Edit: when you see a green square in putty, just hit enter and paste the command for ID7v2). Thats what I tested successfully today. Perhaps its also possible with .352 NA or to downgrade to lower FW versions.
 

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If anyone knows what any of the following files do or how to read them, please let me know or message me. These are the specific files that have changed
  • sta8088_arm9_bootloader_image.bin (V335/352 are identical but V367 has been modified)
  • sta8088_arm9_firmware_image.bin (V335/352 are identical but V367 has been modified)
.bin stands for binary file and is the compiled machine readable code. You can inspect the code with a Hex (hexadecimal) Editor. The problem is that you can alter bytes but you also would need to alter the checksum value in the header to reflect the changes you make. The checksum is a method designed to check for corrupted code. At software installation the installer reads the checksum and then adds the value of all the bytes to reach its own checksum. If the two tally it goes ahead and installs otherwise it fails the code and stops.

So if your remove, say, code CC - it has a value of 204 - that value must be subtracted from the checksum before saving. But remember the sums are in hexadecimal The problem is identifying which bytes in the first line of code are the checksum. It is certainly doable with experimentation. I did it once, years ago, to unlock some sat-nav updates on a Garmin for aviation. But I only followed advice from others.

I would look in the bootloader first.
 
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