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A lot of you have seen my painted wheels and I have been asked to create a write-up on several occassions, so here it is. This guide will show/tell how to paint stock wheels with spray paint without unmounting the tires.
Tools and materials (not all are pictured)
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Step 1: Removing the wheels
Slightly loosen the lug nuts on the first wheel to be removed. Place wheel chaulks as needed. Jack up the first corner using solid points under the car. I use subframe mounting points in the front and strong, overlapping metal areas in the back. Place jack stands under the jack point (listed in the owner's manual). Repeat on the other side of that end of the car so that the entire front or back is on jack stands.
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*My center cap is already painted in this picture because it was reused from the previous wheel
Step 2: Remove the center cap
The center cap snaps into the center of the wheel. To remove it, press on the center from the back.
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Step 3: Remove the "Flying M" from the center cap
To avoid masking the Flying M, you can remove it before painting the center cap. It is held in place with 4 plastic tabs. You may have to shave the clips on the tabs to release them. Once the center cap is disassembled, set it aside.
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Step 4: Scuff the stock finish
Using 320 or 400 grit sandpaper, wet sand the stock finish until there are no glossy areas. Don't worry if you sand some areas a little more than others, but try to sand as evenly as possible. Don't forget the center caps. Rinse and dry the wheel thoroughly.
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Step 5: Mask the wheel and primer
Lay out the drop cloth. Prop up one side of the wheel on a box or something solid. Mask the wheel using the index cards. Place them between the wheel and tire as pictured. Remove the valve stem cap and either mask the threads or the TPMS retainer and threads. Also mask the mounting pad on the back of the wheel and inside edge of the wheel center. This will make sure the wheel mounts flat and the centercap fits properly after painting.
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Put on your respirator. Attach the trigger adapter to the primer can, shake the can thoroughly, and spray primer. You will want to spray 8-10 from the surface, moving fast enough that paint doesn't pool or run. Remember to paint both sides of the wheel.
Step 6: Sand the primer and re-coat (x2)
After the primer is dry, remove the index cards and wet sand with 800. Again, don't worry if you burn though some areas in the first coat of primer when sanding. Rinse and dry the wheel thoroughly. There is no need to remove the painter's tape, but you will need to remask if it comes loose. Remask with the index cards and spray another coat of primer. Remove the index cards once dry. Sand, wash, and dry again. You shouldn't sand through the second coat of primer in any areas. I usually spray 2 coats of primer to help hide any small imperfections in the surface of the wheel.
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Step 7: Mask the wheel and spray the base color
At this point, you're ready for color. You should be pretty comfortable with painting. If not you want want to practice on something. Good paint isn't cheap and I wasted a couple of cans ($8 each) back when I was first starting. I suggest that you pull all the painter's tape and re-mask. Mask with index cards and paint both sides.
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Step 8: Sand the base color and re-coat
You should be a pro at sanding by now. Depending on how rough your first coat is, wet sand with 800 or 1000. It's okay if the paint gets thin in areas, but you shouldn't sand through to primer. Rinse and dry thoroughly. Repeat this as necessary until the paint if opaque and smooth.
Step 9: Spray clear, sand, and re-coat
Using the established process, spray clear coat, sand, and repeat. I generally spray 3 coats. For the first 2 coats, I sand with 1000. For the final, I sand with 1000, followed by 2000. Once you're satisfied, remove all masking and leave to dry overnight (minimum).
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Step 10: Replace the wheel(s)
Re-attach the Flying M's to the center caps, then place them back into the wheels. The fitment will be a little snug. Then it's basically the reverse of Step 1. Enjoy your new wheels!
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Picture from when I first painted my wheels:
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Tools and materials (not all are pictured)
- Primer (1 can per wheel)
- Base color spray paint (I use a little over 1 can per wheel)
- Clear coat (1 can per 2 wheels)
- Trigger adapter for spray cans
- Assorted sandpaper (320/400, 800, 1000, 2000)
- Index cards (I use the $1 pack from Wal-Mart)
- Drop cloth
- Sponge
- Water source/bucket/whatever
- Blue painter's tape
- Towels
- Hydrolic jack (scissor jack works, but not recommended)
- Jack stands
- Resirator (or at least a dust mask)
- Tire iron
- Torque wrench w/ 21mm socket
- Wheel chaulks
Step 1: Removing the wheels
Slightly loosen the lug nuts on the first wheel to be removed. Place wheel chaulks as needed. Jack up the first corner using solid points under the car. I use subframe mounting points in the front and strong, overlapping metal areas in the back. Place jack stands under the jack point (listed in the owner's manual). Repeat on the other side of that end of the car so that the entire front or back is on jack stands.
*My center cap is already painted in this picture because it was reused from the previous wheel
Step 2: Remove the center cap
The center cap snaps into the center of the wheel. To remove it, press on the center from the back.
Step 3: Remove the "Flying M" from the center cap
To avoid masking the Flying M, you can remove it before painting the center cap. It is held in place with 4 plastic tabs. You may have to shave the clips on the tabs to release them. Once the center cap is disassembled, set it aside.
Step 4: Scuff the stock finish
Using 320 or 400 grit sandpaper, wet sand the stock finish until there are no glossy areas. Don't worry if you sand some areas a little more than others, but try to sand as evenly as possible. Don't forget the center caps. Rinse and dry the wheel thoroughly.
Step 5: Mask the wheel and primer
Lay out the drop cloth. Prop up one side of the wheel on a box or something solid. Mask the wheel using the index cards. Place them between the wheel and tire as pictured. Remove the valve stem cap and either mask the threads or the TPMS retainer and threads. Also mask the mounting pad on the back of the wheel and inside edge of the wheel center. This will make sure the wheel mounts flat and the centercap fits properly after painting.
Put on your respirator. Attach the trigger adapter to the primer can, shake the can thoroughly, and spray primer. You will want to spray 8-10 from the surface, moving fast enough that paint doesn't pool or run. Remember to paint both sides of the wheel.
Step 6: Sand the primer and re-coat (x2)
After the primer is dry, remove the index cards and wet sand with 800. Again, don't worry if you burn though some areas in the first coat of primer when sanding. Rinse and dry the wheel thoroughly. There is no need to remove the painter's tape, but you will need to remask if it comes loose. Remask with the index cards and spray another coat of primer. Remove the index cards once dry. Sand, wash, and dry again. You shouldn't sand through the second coat of primer in any areas. I usually spray 2 coats of primer to help hide any small imperfections in the surface of the wheel.
Step 7: Mask the wheel and spray the base color
At this point, you're ready for color. You should be pretty comfortable with painting. If not you want want to practice on something. Good paint isn't cheap and I wasted a couple of cans ($8 each) back when I was first starting. I suggest that you pull all the painter's tape and re-mask. Mask with index cards and paint both sides.
Step 8: Sand the base color and re-coat
You should be a pro at sanding by now. Depending on how rough your first coat is, wet sand with 800 or 1000. It's okay if the paint gets thin in areas, but you shouldn't sand through to primer. Rinse and dry thoroughly. Repeat this as necessary until the paint if opaque and smooth.
Step 9: Spray clear, sand, and re-coat
Using the established process, spray clear coat, sand, and repeat. I generally spray 3 coats. For the first 2 coats, I sand with 1000. For the final, I sand with 1000, followed by 2000. Once you're satisfied, remove all masking and leave to dry overnight (minimum).
Step 10: Replace the wheel(s)
Re-attach the Flying M's to the center caps, then place them back into the wheels. The fitment will be a little snug. Then it's basically the reverse of Step 1. Enjoy your new wheels!
Picture from when I first painted my wheels:
