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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hey guys,

I thought I'd post a quick how-to on installing HID bulbs in the OEM fog light housings. I saw a few guides for head lights and the process is very similar, but none of them mentioned anything about using the heavy-duty relay harness. I decided to purchase the TRS H11 HID kit for my 2012 Mazda 3 i GT. If you decide to try this, make sure you pick the correct bulb type. I think previous model years use a different type. I also read that the the use of a relay wiring harness is optional for 35W HIDs, but I decided to install one any way to be safe.

Disclaimer: I am a noob so these instructions might not be perfect. Please exercise caution when doing this install. I am not responsible for any damage that you do as a result of these instructions.

I apologize if this how-to isn't very detailed... there was rain in the forecast so I had to be quick with taking pics, so I could get done.

This guide assumes that you already have the OEM fogs installed. If you don't check out these two great how-tos:

http://mazda3revolution.com/forums/2010-mazda-3-appearance-interior/9913-diy-2012-mazda-3i-sport-foglight-install.html
http://mazda3revolution.com/forums/2010-mazda-3-how-guides/2004-2010-3i-fog-light-installation-guide-pics.html

The kit I received from TRS included:

  • (1) Heavy-Duty H11 Relay Harness
  • (2) Morimoto Elite 3Five HID Ballasts
  • (2) Morimoto Elite 3Five 4300K HID Bulbs
  • (1) Really short H11 cable with only one end, which I didn't use (no clue what it is for)

I also stopped at Lowes and picked up some Scotch Indoor/Outdoor tape to mount my ballasts with. I also picked up a pack of zip ties, which I ended up not needing.

Pic of all the components:


The first thing I did was pop the hood and DISCONNECT THE NEGATIVE BATTERY CABLE. I then proceeded to take off the bumper. It seemed like the easiest way to do the install, although you could probably get away with doing everything through the access panels on the bottom of the car. That seemed like such a hassle and the bumper doesn't really take long to remove so I just went ahead and removed it. If you are not familiar with taking off the bumper, check out ntechnic's excellent guide.
Next I figured out where I wanted to put the relay portion of the relay harness. I ultimately decided to put them behind the horn area, behind some black box and directly beside the fender cover panel. I didn't even use double-sided tape for this part. It is pretty secure behind this black box. I made sure to leave the relays upright to prevent water from leaking in.



Next, I ran the positive and negative battery cables from the harness up to the battery area. I just left them there and waited until the end to connect them.



Next, I ran the passenger ballast harness cable from the driver's side to the passenger side in the tray in front of the radiator area. This seemed like the best place to run it, but if you have any suggestions, feel free to comment.



Now that I had the cables run, I decided to pick a spot and mount the ballasts. I found two nice flat surfaces, one right near the horns and the other in the same general area on the opposite side of the car.

I cleaned the areas and ballasts with some rubbing alcohol and applied double-sided tape to the ballasts when the rubbing alcohol dried.



Here is where I mounted them.

Driver's side:



Passenger side:



Make sure to press down firmly on the ballasts to ensure that they don't fall off.

After I mounted the ballasts, I connected the ballast cables from the harness to the ballasts. Unfortunately, I did not get any pictures of the connectors, but everything is pretty much plug and play and will only plug in one way.

At this point, I removed my existing halogen bulbs from the fog light housings and prepared to install the new HID bulbs. Just twist the bulbs to unlock them and they should pull right out. My new HID bulbs shipped with a rubber piece on the bottom of the protective container that had four holes with four cables sticking out... two spade connectors and the AMP connectors. I simply pulled the spade cables out because they weren't connected to the bulb and I didn't need them. I left the rubber piece dangling, but you can probably cut it off if you want. I then proceeded to put the new bulbs in. I had trouble getting them in at first and then discovered that they went in properly when I removed the orange rubber grommet and flipped it so it looks like the picture below:



I'm not entirely sure if this is what I should've done or what, but it went in properly after I did that. Hopefully the moisture stays out. When you put these bulbs in, make sure you don't touch the bulb glass with your bare hands. You can use gloves, however I didn't. I just made sure I was very careful not to touch the bulb. You will notice when looking at black ring part of the bulb that there are a few notches, one of them appeared to be bigger than the rest. You have to line these up when putting the bulb in the housing. Then when the bulb is fully inserted, turn it in the opposite direction you turned the halogen bulbs to remove them. This locks the bulb into place.

Now that you have the new bulbs installed, go ahead and connect your bulb cables to the ballast. In my kit the bulb AMP connectors were different... one male and one female so it was obvious which connector plugged into which ballast connector.

You also need to plugin the OEM fog harness connector that was originally plugged into the driver's side halogen fog light to the relay harness connector. This cable tells the relays in the harness when to switch on the power from the battery (when your fog light switch is turned on). This should be the last remaining cable on the driver's side.

Next, move the bumper closer to the front of the vehicle, prop it up if necessary and reconnect the fog connection on the passenger side that you had to disconnect when removing the bumper. This goes into the same place as before - the OEM fog harness connector.

Now, unscrew the nut on the positive battery terminal and insert the positive battery harness cable. Tighten the nut and repeat the process for the negative harness cable on the negative screw. Reconnect the car's negative cable and attached negative harness cable to the negative terminal on the battery. Tighten the nut.

My battery looked like this when I was done:


Finally, test out the new fog lights and put the bumper back on. Hopefully everything works! :D

When it got dark, I noticed my driver's side fog light was aimed up too high and hitting the roof of my garage and part of the garage door. I fixed that today by taking the bulb out and bending the middle cone thing up a little in the fog light housing, so it covers the end of the bulb better. It seemed to resolve my issue.

Here is a picture of my new lights... hopefully they don't blind other drivers haha.



Few more pics of the front of the car: Photo Album - Imgur
An album with a picture taken when the fog lights turned off, the aiming issue I ran into, and a picture with the fog lights on after I fixed the aim: HID Fogs - Imgur

Please feel free to make comments on the install process or tell me if I did something wrong. Like I said, I'm a noob at this stuff haha. My background is in computers! :p
 

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MAAAAAD
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Nice write up! Guess I wont have to do one now hahaha

The little plug that you didnt use is a test lead. I think you use it to test the ballast or something. I didnt use it either.

For those installing the same kit as Derek, it is important that the relays are upright so water doesn't get it just as Derek did.

Fog bulb sizes:

2010-2011 Mz3 = 9006 (Link to TRS Morimoto 3Five Kit 9006)
2010-2012 MS3 = H11 (Link to TRS Morimoto 3Five Kit H11)
2012 Mz3 = H11 (Link to TRS Morimoto 3Five Kit H11)

I've added the links to the kit that Derek has. Very high quality kit. It ships from Georgia so no waiting like DDM kits. Plus they have fantastic customer service. When ordering, make sure you select the right wire harness according to your bulb size.

After seeing this, I might do a horn install while I have the bumper off. No one seems to care about our clown horns haha
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Nice write up! Guess I wont have to do one now hahaha

The little plug that you didnt use is a test lead. I think you use it to test the ballast or something. I didnt use it either.

For those installing the same kit as Derek, it is important that the relays are upright so water doesn't get it just as Derek did.

Fog bulb sizes:

2010-2011 Mz3 = 9006 (Link to TRS Morimoto 3Five Kit 9006)
2010-2012 MS3 = H11 (Link to TRS Morimoto 3Five Kit H11)
2012 Mz3 = H11 (Link to TRS Morimoto 3Five Kit H11)

I've added the links to the kit that Derek has. Very high quality kit. It ships from Georgia so no waiting like DDM kits. Plus they have fantastic customer service. When ordering, make sure you select the right wire harness according to your bulb size.

After seeing this, I might do a horn install while I have the bumper off. No one seems to care about our clown horns haha
Nice additions Chubbs. They must've improved the horn in the 2012 models because mine sounds fine. I've heard sound clips of the previous years horns and I can see why people upgrade them haha
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
So I worked late tonight and had a chance to drive home when it was dark out (and raining). I tested out the fogs and couldn't really notice a difference with them on or off when I was in the driver's seat. I'm going to try messing with the aiming screw tomorrow and see if that helps. They're probably aimed too low. I think I read somewhere that they are aimed low from the factory. Also, no one flashed me so I don't think I'm blinding anyone haha.
 

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MAAAAAD
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So I worked late tonight and had a chance to drive home when it was dark out (and raining). I tested out the fogs and couldn't really notice a difference with them on or off when I was in the driver's seat. I'm going to try messing with the aiming screw tomorrow and see if that helps. They're probably aimed too low. I think I read somewhere that they are aimed low from the factory. Also, no one flashed me so I don't think I'm blinding anyone haha.
yea mine are barely noticeabe. I'm still on the stock halogens though haha

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using AutoGuide.Com Free App
 

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MAAAAAD
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Nice additions Chubbs. They must've improved the horn in the 2012 models because mine sounds fine. I've heard sound clips of the previous years horns and I can see why people upgrade them haha
Seriously no one cares about the horn in 2010-2011 cars haha post a clip of what the 2012 sound like haha

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using AutoGuide.Com Free App
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Alright, I'll try getting one tomorrow.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Alright, here is the sound clip! Tell me if it sounds better than your horn haha.

 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Ahh, some of the clips I heard of the previous years sounded a lot higher than mine. Maybe I should do the horn upgrade then too haha
 

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While I have the front bumper off of my car I am going to go ahead and upgrade the horn... $15s to add a low tone since I already have all the connectors and such, might as well...

Don't really like the sound of my horn right now so eh, why not?

Also, trying to decide between getting the CorkSport LED DRL bulbs for the fogs or just getting HIDs in them...
 

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MAAAAAD
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While I have the front bumper off of my car I am going to go ahead and upgrade the horn... $15s to add a low tone since I already have all the connectors and such, might as well...

Don't really like the sound of my horn right now so eh, why not?

Also, trying to decide between getting the CorkSport LED DRL bulbs for the fogs or just getting HIDs in them...
If you have 6000k, I'd try out CS Led. But don't think they're bright enough to be useful

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My car is Luke's father
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I have the 6000k bulbs for the HID and LED switchbacks...

Am also thinking of doing the yellow overlays for the fog lights... so the CS is prob what I will get for the blubs instead of the stock halogens, if i decide to not do the yellow overlays I may do the HIDs later on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I have the 6000k bulbs for the HID and LED switchbacks...

Am also thinking of doing the yellow overlays for the fog lights... so the CS is prob what I will get for the blubs instead of the stock halogens, if i decide to not do the yellow overlays I may do the HIDs later on.
Got any pics of your LED switchbacks? I'm curious what they look like during the day and with the turn signal on.
 

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My car is Luke's father
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I have a video of them functioning during the night, but can take a picture tomorrow of them on during the day.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Where's the video? I'd love to see it!
 

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My car is Luke's father
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Yep, they are pretty bright! But they work great as a DRL! Just wait till I have HIDs and Fog Lights...
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 · (Edited)
Hey guys,

I adjusted the aim of my driver's side fog light today using the screw on the bottom of the housing. You loosen it and it pivots up and down. I only did the driver's side because I wanted to see how it would look in comparison to the passenger side. My fog lights appear to be aimed all the way up from the factory. I moved the driver's side screw so it was positioned in the middle and that side looks much better. I might try aiming it all the way down tomorrow and see how that looks. I'm going to have to fix the passenger side tomorrow too haha. Here are some more pics!

Photo Album - Imgur

Derek
 
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