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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
This was the other accessory I installed on my wife's '14 3i Touring last weekend - it includes both the fog lights themselves, as well as the turn signal/light controller stalk, which is sold separately (batteries not included!). This should be the same for all 3 models.

Time: 15-30 minutes

Parts included in the boxes:
- Fog light lens/reflector/bulb assemblies
- Fog light brackets
- Fog light trim panels
- Mounting screws
- Turns signal/light controller stalk

Tools required:
- P2 Phillips screwdriver
- P3 Phillips screwdriver
- 'normal' flathead screwdriver
- 10mm socket & ratchet
- rag or tshirt

Like with the auto-dimming mirror, I ignored the torque wrench. All are low and I found I could rely on feel and observation better than with a wrench.



As always, with any electrical installation in your car, disconnect the ground cable from the negative terminal of the battery. This is a good practice to start and maintain.

Use a 10mm socket on a ratchet or similar tool:



Ok, on to the fun part. I started out in the interior for no reason at all. The first step is to drop the steering wheel as low as it can go and pull it all the way towards you.



Next, place your rag or t-shirt around the instrument cluster to protect it.



Begin removing the upper steering column trim piece. I found it easiest to remove one side at a time; use the 'hood' around the stalk on either side to get a grip and pull up.



The upper trim piece is also kept on by a piece of fabric which acts as a 'boot' between the column and the dash, to take up the gap when it's adjusted by tilt or telescoping. Now that it's off on both sides, gently pull it towards you until the fabric is taut. It'll rest there vertically.





Remove the lower column trim piece, using a P2 Phillips screwdriver on the two screws, circled below. Once the screws are out, pull it down, using your hands to pull it away from the column.





After this, you'll need to turn the steering wheel 90 degrees to the left (counterclockwise), so you can get to the stalk.

Now get your flathead screwdriver out. You'll need to gently press in on the circled locking tab and, while holding it in, pull out on the turn signal/light stalk assembly. In the second picture, the tab is circled in red, and its locking hole in green. Pull towards the red arrow to remove.





Find your new stalk (the one with the fog light switch), line up the channels, and slide it into the column in the direction of the green arrow above. Push until the tab locks into place with a click.

Reassemble the trim. Snap back in the lower trim and replace the two screws, tightening firmly but not too tight. Lay the top trim down and remove your rag/tshirt. Next, you'll need to tuck the fabric back into the gap between the column and dash, and make sure the sides of the fabric cold under the trim piece.



Once the fabric's in place again, align the upper trim piece, and use your hands on either side to "clamp" the two halves together and lock the top into place.



Done with the interior work!
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
Now, the lights themselves. Here's our boring, stock front end...



I ignored the Mazda instructions because I was too lazy to find some tape for the bumper. I also ignored their suggestion of pliers, hoping I could sell the original trim panels later.

So, grip the top outer corner and gently pull out. It doesn't put up much of a fight. Once the outer side comes out, guide the inner corner out gently as well. But don't yank too hard!



The wiring connector for the fog light is pressed into a dummy on the trim panel. Push in the locking tab with your thumb and pull the connector out.

You're done with that trim panel now...keep it, recycle it, sell it, set it afire, or use it for target practice.



Onto the light assemblies. Put your screws into three piles...two small black screws (green), two larger black set screws (red), and six silver mounting screws (blue). You'll need the black screws and set screws now.



The light's held into its bracket in three spots...a dowel, the screw, and set screw. Line up where each goes, and begin by guiding the hole for the small screw (green screws in the pic above) into its mounting hole. There's a shoulder so it only goes so far.



Next, guide in the dowel, pulling out gently on the bracket so it can slide and snap into its hole.



Line up the hole for the set screw on the bottom.

NOTE: In the picture, you can see the two plastic "bridges" which create a hole for the set screw. I would recommend breaking these off now, which turns that guide hole into a slot so that the lights can be rotated up and down for alignment. It is my and others' experience that the lights point downward too far when using the factory guide hole. It's easier to break those bridges now than have to disassemble everything later - with them broken out, you can adjust the height with a wrench later on by removing ONLY the outer trim piece, not the entire assembly.



Thread in the screw and set screw, each circled in the same color as the earlier picture. You'll need a P2 Phillips for the screw (green) and a P3 for the larger set screw (red).

I didn't use a torque wrench; instead, I simply tightened enough so that the lock washers compressed completely and then another tiny bit. You'll feel it tighten up.



Ok, now take your assembly over to the car, and plug in the harness connector into the bulb, clicking it into place. The tab goes towards the back of the car.



Move the light assembly into its mounting recess in the bumper. It's positively located in place using the two guide pins (or reference pins as Mazda calls them), circled in green.



Now, take three of the silver mounting screws (blue ones) and screw them in using a P2 Phillips screwdriver. The first picture shows the tiny hole to guide that screw in. You'll feel it pull its way in.

Tighten these gently - DO NOT overtighten and strip out the holes! It can be very easy to do here!

There are three on each side, all circled in blue in the second picture.





Once those are tightened, find your new trim panel. I found this was easiest to install by first guiding in the outer side tabs into their slots, without pressing them in, and then lining up the inner side's tabs/slots. Then it would easily line up and snap into place.

Note...in case you're wondering why the background changed in these next two pictures, I took them on the right side rather than the left and later flipped them so they'd at least match the other photos from this series.





Once that's in, there you go! Complete the other side in the same manner, hook your battery cable back up, and try them out. Personally, I think they're set too low from the factory. If you broke out the little bridges or tabs during installation of the set screw, realignment is as simple as pulling off the outer trim panels. Then you can slide a 10mm wrench (reversible ratcheting is easiest to use) up onto the set screw from below and then loosen/tighten as necessary.

All done!

 

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Excellent write up! Looks pretty easy too! Definitely something I want to do if the fog light kit wasn't so freaking expensive!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Excellent write up! Looks pretty easy too! Definitely something I want to do if the fog light kit wasn't so freaking expensive!!!
Thanks! I know, the things weren't cheap, but my wife has some night vision issues and the fogs were cheaper than moving up to a model with xenons.

I bought mine from our local dealer, they gave us a discount on accessories when we bought the car so they were close to what online discounters were charging. This place has about the cheapest ones I've seen, it includes both the lights and the stalk:

2014 Mazda 3 OEM Factory Mazda Fog Lights Kit

Not sure I'll do a writeup for the splash guards, but probably will for the trailer hitch whenever it gets installed.
 

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The dealer just installed my fog lights. The manual says there's a fog light indicator on the dash that lights up with the fogs. I can't seem to find it. Also, I think my lights are pointing way too low. I can't see the center of the beam when the car is in my garage.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
The dealer just installed my fog lights. The manual says there's a fog light indicator on the dash that lights up with the fogs. I can't seem to find it. Also, I think my lights are pointing way too low. I can't see the center of the beam when the car is in my garage.
Huh...owner's manual doesn't mention one on the instrument cluster, so I'm guessing it was a typo. Ours doesn't turn on an indicator light on either.

I'd be surprised if they're off that much, but it's not hard to check. It's easy to pull them out and adjust if necessary per the instructions.
 

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Nice How To!

This is one of the first things that I need to do.

Thank You very much, wife's night time vision isn't as good as it use too be.
 

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Nice guide! I got a iTouring and may get the fogs later on depending how well these headlights light up the road (stock halogen bulbs) :)
 

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wow the wiring harness is already preinstalled into the bumper?
i might have to do this since theres not cutting or wiring involved. easy upgrade. thansk for the write up.
 

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Nice guide! I got a iTouring and may get the fogs later on depending how well these headlights light up the road (stock halogen bulbs) :)
I got the fog lights and I am disappointed with them. They aren't that functional. They are more for looks.
 

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Damn that's almost too easy. They even have the wiring all ready to go for you? That's like cheating.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Might get too hot. I'm thinking of replacing them completely with a set of projector fog light housings.
The housings seem pretty stout and the extra power draw isn't much.

First I'm going to try tilting them downwards - I noticed the other night that I can barely see any additional light on the ground around them when turned on, so perhaps they're just pointing too high.
 

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The housings seem pretty stout and the extra power draw isn't much.

First I'm going to try tilting them downwards - I noticed the other night that I can barely see any additional light on the ground around them when turned on, so perhaps they're just pointing too high.
Mine were pointing too low, Had to raise them up to see any light around the car.
 

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does that light stalk also include auto headlights?
 

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If I haven't said it already, thank you for posting this, Girchy. This is one of the best, easiest-to-follow how-to write-ups I've seen. More of them should be this clear and concise.

This almost makes me sorry I ordered my car with the foglights, because now I see how easy they are to DIY install!
 

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Do you notice if there is any space between the cap and the tip of the bulb? Just wonder if the stock H11 can be replaced with LED H11. Normally LED H11 is longer than halogen bulb. HID is definitely won't fit.
 
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