[ZuZ]

Fixed!

 

[tarahumara]

There is a much easier way to wire a dashcam for the cars which has an auto dimming rear view mirror. Here is how I done it. It's simple and clean.

Geri vites sinyali = Reverse gear signal
Sasi = Chassis (Negative)

 

[Davidval18]

@tarahumara, Thanks a lot! Excellent guide! Might do this in the future!

One question, I noticed that on the plastic cover you attached some "spongy" tape, as shown in the picture attached below with red arrows.

May I ask why did you do this? Was it to stop some rattling noise coming from the plastic? Did you do the same process as well for the left cover?

Thanks for clarifying!

 

[tarahumara]

@tarahumara, Thanks a lot! Excellent guide! Might do this in the future!

One question, I noticed that on the plastic cover you attached some "spongy" tape, as shown in the picture attached below with red arrows.

May I ask why did you do this? Was it to stop some rattling noise coming from the plastic? Did you do the same process as well for the left cover?

Thanks for clarifying!

That is correct. I've added this tape to both parts of the sensors cover and many more places in the car like glovebox, b pillar plastics, armrest and mirror base. I hate rattles and there is none right now thanks to this tape.

 

[RalphVa]

You all were more successful than me. I tried a GS8000L. Not sure who the manufacturer is. Can find info on them online.

Poor, dim 2.7" screen.

I was hoping for a better determination of where the right front corner of the car was. No. Can hardly see the LCD in normal light, and the camera really cannot be mounted high enough up.

Don't buy this one. I tried it in both the 3 and the MX-5. No good in either one.

Ralph

 

[hp82]

Does anyone know if it´s allowed to use a Dash-Cam in Italy?

 

[coreo]

thanks

 

[yogester123]

@turbonium911

Hi there,

I'm about to install a thinkware front and rear cam using a thinkware hardwiring kit and 2 X add a circuit and 2 fuses.
I have Mazda 3 2017 and will be tapping into an always on and an ignition on fuse for parking mode.

My internal fuse box pic and fuses described. You may need to zoom in on the fuse pic - sorry.

PS: yes I'll be using a multimeter to find out an always on and one ignition on fuse.

My questions please:

1. is it better/safer to use a vacant fuse if so, do i just plug in an add a fuse and add a say 15a compatible fuse?
2. For add a fuse to an existing fuse do i plug in the same rating fuse as original?
2. I could also tap into 11 F.OUTLET - FROnt accessory outlet and maybe vacant thoughts?

Cheers.

 

[turbonium911]

To answer your queries:

1. Usually an empty fuse means there is nothing there, but that is not guaranteed. It might have a feature associated with that fuse that is not used in our car, but might have been installed or deactivated. In our 2017 GT case, I found the R.OUTLET3 (Fuse 5) doesn't have anything on it so I used it for the always ON power fuse. I then utilized F.OUTLET (FUSE 11) for the Power ON at ignition/Accessory socket.

2. If your add a fuse is wired in correctly (Isolation of the fuse is correctly done as per my original post on page 3 I believe), then for the original equipment you can utilize the previous fuse to maintain the original equipment's maximum current draw limit. Your added on fuse than can be anything less than or equal to a 25 Amp fuse for whatever equipment your're adding on. AWG rating of your add a fuse circuit should be considered as well when picking the fuse.

3. See response to 1.

As additional information, my previous installation I modified it just a bit. My dashcam can also operate in parking mode as well. Originally I wasn't sure of the power drain on the battery in parking mode, but I've been using it with parking mode enabled for 3 months and I've left the car for 5 days once and was still able to start just fine. As such, the attached picture shows the 2 fuses I'm using for the dashcam. R.OUTLET3 is used for Always ON power which keeps the dash cam always ON, and the F.OUTLET is used while the car is on, and also signals the dashcam to go to active mode when ignition is at anything besides off position.

The 20 Amp fuse I've utilized instead of the 15Amp for the original equipment for fuse F.OUTLET has to be replaced with a 15 Amp as I accidentally broke the fuse and didn't have a spare 15 Amp lying around. Will replace it as soon as I get my lazy ass to a store.

Also in that picture is a 12V charger powered in parallel with the Accessory fuse for the dashcam. It draws up to 25 Watts (5V @ 5 Amps for a USB 3.1 with BC 1.2 Charging Type A port and a BC 1.2 Charging Type C port) or (12 V @ 2.1 Amps max).

@turbonium911

Hi there,

I'm about to install a thinkware front and rear cam using a thinkware hardwiring kit and 2 X add a circuit and 2 fuses.
I have Mazda 3 2017 and will be tapping into an always on and an ignition on fuse for parking mode.

My internal fuse box pic and fuses described. You may need to zoom in on the fuse pic - sorry.

PS: yes I'll be using a multimeter to find out an always on and one ignition on fuse.

My questions please:

1. is it better/safer to use a vacant fuse if so, do i just plug in an add a fuse and add a say 15a compatible fuse?
2. For add a fuse to an existing fuse do i plug in the same rating fuse as original?
2. I could also tap into 11 F.OUTLET - FROnt accessory outlet and maybe vacant thoughts?

Cheers.

 

[SirRabbit]

Excellent guides, and the quality of dashcams seem to have improved quite a bit in the recent years, although im still not sure of their effectiveness while driving at night.

 

[yogester123]

To answer your queries:

1. Usually an empty fuse means there is nothing there, but that is not guaranteed. It might have a feature associated with that fuse that is not used in our car, but might have been installed or deactivated. In our 2017 GT case, I found the R.OUTLET3 (Fuse 5) doesn't have anything on it so I used it for the always ON power fuse. I then utilized F.OUTLET (FUSE 11) for the Power ON at ignition/Accessory socket.

2. If your add a fuse is wired in correctly (Isolation of the fuse is correctly done as per my original post on page 3 I believe), then for the original equipment you can utilize the previous fuse to maintain the original equipment's maximum current draw limit. Your added on fuse than can be anything less than or equal to a 25 Amp fuse for whatever equipment your're adding on. AWG rating of your add a fuse circuit should be considered as well when picking the fuse.

3. See response to 1.

As additional information, my previous installation I modified it just a bit. My dashcam can also operate in parking mode as well. Originally I wasn't sure of the power drain on the battery in parking mode, but I've been using it with parking mode enabled for 3 months and I've left the car for 5 days once and was still able to start just fine. As such, the attached picture shows the 2 fuses I'm using for the dashcam. R.OUTLET3 is used for Always ON power which keeps the dash cam always ON, and the F.OUTLET is used while the car is on, and also signals the dashcam to go to active mode when ignition is at anything besides off position.

The 20 Amp fuse I've utilized instead of the 15Amp for the original equipment for fuse F.OUTLET has to be replaced with a 15 Amp as I accidentally broke the fuse and didn't have a spare 15 Amp lying around. Will replace it as soon as I get my lazy ass to a store.

Also in that picture is a 12V charger powered in parallel with the Accessory fuse for the dashcam. It draws up to 25 Watts (5V @ 5 Amps for a USB 3.1 with BC 1.2 Charging Type A port and a BC 1.2 Charging Type C port) or (12 V @ 2.1 Amps max).

thanks heaps for the detailed response. I' ve some more quick questions sorry

Re 1. Usually an empty fuse means there is nothing there, but that is not guaranteed. It might have a feature associated with that fuse that is not used in our car, but might have been installed or deactivated. In our 2017 GT case, I found the R.OUTLET3 (Fuse 5) doesn't have anything on it so I used it for the always ON power fuse. I then utilized F.OUTLET (FUSE 11) for the Power ON at ignition/Accessory socket.

- How did you check 'doesn't have anything on it so' - like resistance on multimeter ? (trying to sound like a smart ass)


Re 2. If your add a fuse is wired in correctly (Isolation of the fuse is correctly done as per my original post on page 3 I believe), then for the original equipment you can utilize the previous fuse to maintain the original equipment's maximum current draw limit. Your added on fuse than can be anything less than or equal to a 25 Amp fuse for whatever equipment your're adding on. AWG rating of your add a fuse circuit should be considered as well when picking the fuse

- You mean your jpeg? I'm more confused now sorry. the fuses you have taped that I can potentially tap too are 15 amp. Now I can either put the added fuseas 15 s on each add a fuse and while retaining the original fuses for the original equipment. Asuming this will meet all enery needs or I go ballistic and add like a 25 amp adef fuses to each add a fuse

so: R Outlet - 15a org + 15a added + (AWG rating of your add a fuse circuit should be considered as well when picking the fuse)
OR
R Outlet - 15a org + 25a added + (AWG rating of your add a fuse circuit should be considered as well when picking the fuse)

Same for F Outlet.

more questions:

what knda add a fuse did you use i.e. mini or mico etc. I'm assuming our cars have the micro kind?
My local aus shops don't really stock micro fuse taps - can I source them from ebay ? I mean how importtant is the quality of the tap. I can get something like this from ebay
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/5-x-Add...-mini-LOW-PROFILE-FREE-FUSE/271495964714?hash=item3f366ba82a:g:9BQAAOxyedRTdMTZ

Cheers.

 

[turbonium911]

1. I used an ammeter with a 20 Amp fuse in series with the slot (Fuse 5 - R.OUTLET3) and measured the current draw. I put my car in reverse, drive, and utilized all the other functions; seats, heating, lights...etc to make sure that has no bearing on the fuse slot (It shouldn't if the car has no need for that fuse and the service wiring manual I picked up this forum is the same for the 2017s). Measured 25 microamps peak a few times, which is well within the error and thermal current range for a car voltage bus that is open (i.e. no load or connection to ground).

You're right I should clarify. Different models of the same year might have different fuse box configurations utilized. I have a 3 GT 2017, but with all the bells and whistles.

My car already had a 15 Amp fuse at R.OUTLET3 but the owner's manual showed no component associated with it. So had to check to verify if the owner's manual was a mistype or the 15 Amp fuse in that slot was car assembly error. I think mine comes with a fuse for other aftermarket components to be added on if necessary somewhere in the car, but that is just a guess.

F.OUTLET in my car was an empty socket even though the manual says accessory socket. I don't know if this was an error or not so I stuck a 10 Amp fuse in there for now. As for the 20 Amp fuse for the add-a-fuse at Fuse 11, that as I mentioned should be brought down to 15 Amp. The total maximum amperage for any of the microfuse slots should be 25 Amps at most. Fuse 11 in my car currently could theoretically draw 30 Amps which is greater than the rated maximum current that fuse slot should be channeling (overheating or thermal breakdown of material could occur).

When I speak of AWG, I mean that whatever add a fuse circuit you buy, it should normally mention what the maximum current it can take through the leads inside it to prevent overheating or damage to the plastic/rubber shrouds. Most add-a-fuse don't mention this as they are pretty cheap or crappy. I say AWG because they have a defined current rating draw for wires and thickness associated with most materials utilized for channeling current.

Let's say if the fuse you're going to utilize already has a 15 Amp fuse within it, then the add-a-fuse in theory should be at most 10 Amps (Maximum of 25 Amps total drawn from the microfuse). Furthermore for the 10 Amps that you use in your add a fuse, the circuit of the add-a-fuse should be rated for a value greater than or equal to 10 Amps otherwise you could damage it (There is a short wire leading out of the add-a-fuse for crimping it to/with the leads of your equipment.

thanks heaps for the detailed response. I' ve some more quick questions sorry

Re 1. Usually an empty fuse means there is nothing there, but that is not guaranteed. It might have a feature associated with that fuse that is not used in our car, but might have been installed or deactivated. In our 2017 GT case, I found the R.OUTLET3 (Fuse 5) doesn't have anything on it so I used it for the always ON power fuse. I then utilized F.OUTLET (FUSE 11) for the Power ON at ignition/Accessory socket.

- How did you check 'doesn't have anything on it so' - like resistance on multimeter ? (trying to sound like a smart ass)


Re 2. If your add a fuse is wired in correctly (Isolation of the fuse is correctly done as per my original post on page 3 I believe), then for the original equipment you can utilize the previous fuse to maintain the original equipment's maximum current draw limit. Your added on fuse than can be anything less than or equal to a 25 Amp fuse for whatever equipment your're adding on. AWG rating of your add a fuse circuit should be considered as well when picking the fuse

- You mean your jpeg? I'm more confused now sorry. the fuses you have taped that I can potentially tap too are 15 amp. Now I can either put the added fuseas 15 s on each add a fuse and while retaining the original fuses for the original equipment. Asuming this will meet all enery needs or I go ballistic and add like a 25 amp adef fuses to each add a fuse

so: R Outlet - 15a org + 15a added + (AWG rating of your add a fuse circuit should be considered as well when picking the fuse)
OR
R Outlet - 15a org + 25a added + (AWG rating of your add a fuse circuit should be considered as well when picking the fuse)

Same for F Outlet.

more questions:

what knda add a fuse did you use i.e. mini or mico etc. I'm assuming our cars have the micro kind?
My local aus shops don't really stock micro fuse taps - can I source them from ebay ? I mean how importtant is the quality of the tap. I can get something like this from ebay
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/5-x-Add...-mini-LOW-PROFILE-FREE-FUSE/271495964714?hash=item3f366ba82a:g:9BQAAOxyedRTdMTZ

Cheers.

 

[yogester123]

thanks heaps, ok so my game plan:

get this https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/5-x-Add...-mini-LOW-PROFILE-FREE-FUSE/271495964714?hash=item3f366ba82a:g:9BQAAOxyedRTdMTZ

get fuses as necessary, if R and F outlet used will ensure added fuses are at most 10amps

Pray AWC is oK as you said the crappy ones on ebay don't mention and my shops have only got mini and standard.

do you think the quality of this ebay add a circuit is an issue? would you use this? I don't wanna blow up anything in my brand new car.

Cheers

 

[yogester123]

I got a reply from the ebay seller they say the AWG rating is 16 and can give me 10a fuses, ok to pull the trigger lol?

 

[yogester123]

Also can I use this by any chance?

https://www.jaycar.com.au/double-mini-blade-fuse-socket-wire-tap/p/SF5125

I read somewhere I can.

Cheers

 

[turbonium911]

For most add-a-fuse, 16 AWG is acceptable as its less than a foot in length and would be within the acceptable current rating as per:

https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/amps-wire-gauge-d_730.html

So yes if the vendor has confirmed it, it should be fine. Using the 10 amp fuses would be just fine. AWG 16 is acceptable for up to 20 Amps with the add-a-fuse less than a foot long. Though you'd still have to make sure the sum of fuses on the fuse slot doesn't exceed 25 Amps.

That low profile add-a-fuse is the one. The mini one you've posted would work, but it would not be a snug fit and could slide out due to vibration. Also the mini leaves exposed leads that could increase the possibility of a short due to loose wires or water or moisture or whatever defeating the purpose of the fuse.

I got a reply from the ebay seller they say the AWG rating is 16 and can give me 10a fuses, ok to pull the trigger lol?

 

[yogester123]

thank you kind sir!

I shall report how I went.

Cheers

 

[yogester123]

Sorry for reviving this old post but wanna report back that I have been to successfully hardwire my front and rear dash cams, thanks heaps for all the help mate.
So in summary, I have tapped a 15a (Right Outlet 1 - #9 in the pic) and 2 20a Seat Warmer fuse which #4 in the pic . The new fuses are 10a each and the AWG of the two Add a Fuse is 16. each. The dash cam needs ~4W. Do you need any issue with this set up please?
Also, the 2 cylinder thingy I got with my thinkware HWC, , I have tapped them together for better cable management. Is it possible they can overheat and cause issues?

Internal Fuse box layout

Cheers
@turbonium911

 

[fearsodo]

Thanks I'll do it

 

[turbonium911]

That setups sounds good. Overheating shouldn't be an issue unless you really taped that in a bundle so thick that heat can't escape. Electrical tape only becomes a thermal insulator if it is more than 1/4 inch in thickness.
As for tapping the 20 Amp fuse, it shouldn't be a problem using a 10 Amp, but I'd suggest using a 5 Amp for that as the sum of fuses currently drawing current across that fuse is > 25 Amps. With a 5 Amp in place, if any kind of electrical short/damage occurs, the dealership can't point to it and say you over drew the current across the fuse tap location rated for a maximum 25 Amps and deny any warranty. As well, using a 5 Amp should be more than sufficient as 99.9% of all dashcams are low wattage devices and 5 Amps at 12 V is usually overkill anyway, unless dashcam current draw specifications state otherwise.