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Hi. I have the Eibach Prokit in my Mazda3 and since I installed it, i can't see nothing on the road LOL. I have to use the high beams of the headlights (D4S stock). I tried with the Morimoto (very poor power) and the Osram CBI (actually) but the same issue.

Anyone have idea how to improve the ilumination? LED convertion kit?

Thanks!
 

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That might not be an option if its got the auto-leveling HIDs. I really want it just a little higher by a few degrees since it only shines about 100-150 ft out and that is just too short for the low beam.

I just installed the Morimoto fog and that helps quite a bit since it does not have the same cutoff. That little bit of extra light makes a difference.
 

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@Jet3 , Simply level your headlights manually and that should solve the problem :)
That might not be an option if its got the auto-leveling HIDs. I found no way to adjust mine. I really want it just a little higher by a few degrees since it only shines about 100-150 ft out and that is just too short for the low beam.

I just installed the Morimoto fog and that helps quite a bit since it does not have the same cutoff. That little bit of extra light makes a difference.
Is auto-leveling HIDs :frown2:

What about this:

https://corksport.com/mazda-head-light-level-adjuster.html
 

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I tried to adjust manually with a screwdriver, but a few days after, the headlights back to "normal" :crying2:
 

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That might not be an option if its got the auto-leveling HIDs. I really want it just a little higher by a few degrees since it only shines about 100-150 ft out and that is just too short for the low beam.

I just installed the Morimoto fog and that helps quite a bit since it does not have the same cutoff. That little bit of extra light makes a difference.
I have the auto-leveling HIDs and they really needed adjusting, its fairly easy, the passenger side white screw head is easy to get to, the driver side need to remove the air filter which is easy also. If beam height is your problem, that will do it.

Personally I want brighter bulbs, just purchased some that said 70% brighter and 20% more distance, will find out tonight when it gets dark, I installed one just now and in daylight, well I am not so optimistic right now.
 

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This is a super easy fix. Finally got around to fixing mine.

Auto-level HIDs and Eibachs.

Since you've attempted to do it with the screwdriver, I presume you know where the adjustment screw is. Rather than taking your air box out, it's simple enough to jack the car up, remove the driver's side wheel and peel the wheel-well plastic back -- you'll have direct access to the drivers side adjustment screw.

I did mine in my driveway, but you need to make sure you're on a flat surface. I didn't use a screwdriver though. I used a 10mm socket. There were a lot of "turns" to get the headlights to where they needed to be. I can imagine I'd have been there a while trying to use a flathead to turn the adjustment knob's teeth.

1) Park your car 9 feet away from a wall (car needs to be on a level surface)
2) use a measuring tape to see how high the center of your headlights are off the ground. You'll see a little circle target on the lens of the headlight denoting the center. Mine was about 27" off of the ground on each side.
3) From there, go over to the wall with masking tape and the tape measure, and put two nice 10" strips of masking tape horizontal on the wall at the height of your headlights (one for each headlight and in my case, 27" up the wall). These two 10" strips of masking tape is where you need the light cutoff lines to be.
4) Gain access to the adjust screws and turn your lights on and go turn each adjustment screw until your light cutoff is even with the masking tape.
5) You're done. You shouldn't need to adjust it anymore - I've had beautiful lighting at night for quite some time now.

When done correctly with a 10mm socket, a tape measure, and masking tape, you shouldn't have any issues at all.

EDIT: Sorry, I should clarify. You can access the adjustment screw through the wheel-well. You obviously don't want your car jacked up though because you won't be level. Instead, if you decide you want to go this route, just turn the wheel all the way right and peel back the wheel-well that way. Sorry for the confusion
 

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There is a section of the beam output that is so bright, it would be a dream if the whole bulb output was like it. Gone for a few days but when back will take photos to show what i mean and then install second bulb in the hopes that the first bulb is faulty and this second bulb does what it promises.
 

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@arathol, Thanks for the information above! I must say that I'm a bit confused, I installed the Eibach's and the headlight auto leveling sensor is working just fine. The headlights adjust automatically according to the weight of the vehicle when I turn the ignition ON, so far when I drive at night nobody is flashing me from the opposite traffic.

On the thread below (Post #15 ) , you can see my new headlights height and cut off pattern:

http://mazda3revolution.com/forums/2014-2017-mazda-3-skyactiv-appearance-interior/203730-morimoto-led-fogs-installed-daaayum-2.html

I'm not an expert, but I think the height of the headlights is ok , do you think everything is in order? Or should I adjust the headlights in any case?

Thanks!
 

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You would have to check the beam pattern and measure the height at 9' from the target wall (the actual number in the sevice manual is 3m or 9.8 ft) as outlined above.
 

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Thanks @arathol, I have my annual check up coming up soon. I'll just ask them to check the headlight height and if necessary to do a "professional" headlights adjustment with the equipment they have (for example, I think they use the Bosch Headlight Tester or similar equipment). You can't go wrong with that kind of equipment! Precise as a laser machine!
 

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Thanks @arathol, I have my annual check up coming up soon. I'll just ask them to check the headlight height and if necessary to do a "professional" headlights adjustment with the equipment they have (for example, I think they use the Bosch Headlight Tester or similar equipment). You can't go wrong with that kind of equipment! Precise as a laser machine!
The dealer can also plug into the OBD port to do the self leveling re initializing to. :smile2:
 

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There are a couple pages in the service manual that cover this. You need to re initialize the lights when changing ride height.






I tried to do this last night and was unsuccessful. Has anyone done this and gotten it to work?

Can you share some tips on what you used as a jumper wire to connect the two terminals of the OBD-II port?

I tried using a paper clip and some electrical tape, but that didn't work very well. I don't think I was able to make a good enough connection with the terminals this way.

For my next attempt I was going to take two short pieces of electrical wiring, expose the wiring at the tips, place one of the wires tip in the B terminal and one of the other wires tip into the J terminal, so that the wires are not touching each other, turn on the car (engine off) and then touch the two tips of exposed wires together for the .5 to 1.5 second intervals 3 times. Within 30 seconds of starting the car... Then hopefully that light will flash 3 times like it is supposed to.

If that doesn't work, I'm headed to the dealership so they can use the Mazda Diagnostic System tool to do it.

Also, do you still need to perform the headlight aiming step after doing this or will this take care of that?
CK
 
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