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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Finally got around to installing the heated mirrors, so here is the write up I promised :)

First of all, this will only work with the s trim! The i trim does not have the wires for the defrost or blinker on the car side connector. If you guys with the i trim want to do it, you can follow the same steps up to where I spliced into the car wiring. You guys would just have to run wires into the cabin, find where the +12V is carried back to the rear defroster, and tap into it.

Also, it has been confirmed in another thread that the wiring for the heated mirrors on the car side for the 2010.5 and the 2011 does exist. So this mod will work just fine for you guys too.

Thanks to icspots from M3F for the motivation to do this. I'm very happy with the way it turned out.

Supplies:
  • Driver side heated glass (product number BBM5-69-1G7)*
  • Passenger side heated glass (product number BBM5-69-1G1)*
  • Wire (I used 16 gauge, 18 would have been easier to work with)
  • 7/64" female spade connector
  • Lithium grease
  • Quick splice connectors
  • Zip ties
*The glass was ordered from Online Mazda Parts.

Tools:
  • Phillips screwdriver
  • T-25 torx driver/bit
  • 8mm socket/wrench
  • Mini flathead screwdriver
  • Wire cutters/strippers/crimpers


  1. Start by removing the mirror from the car. With the door open, grab the sail panel and pull it off. There are 2 pins that hold it on, along with a plastic clip like thing. I was unaware of the latter, so it broke on my driver side. The panel still holds just fine with the two pins though. You can see the pins and the broken clip and the square hole it goes in to in the picture with the sail panel off.



    Once the sail panel is removed, you can unplug the harness from the mirror. Once this is done, remove the three 8mm bolts (while being sure the mirror does not fall to the ground) and pull the mirror off of the car. If you have the BOSE system (not sure if non-BOSE has a tweeter or not?), unplug the harness from the tweeter and set the sail panel off to the side.



    Here is the mirror off of the car. It's pretty filthy, I know :(



  2. Next, we will remove the glass. Note: If you live in a cold area, be sure to let the mirror/glass warm up before attempting to remove the glass. Also, I removed the glass opposite the way I should have. I'll make notes in the following steps so you don't do the same. The glass has 3 ball and socket joints, one in the center, one on the outside, and one below the center one.

    First, push the outside of the glass so it is tilting all the way left (this is where i went wrong, yours should be tilting opposite of the picture).



    Next, grab the inside (not the outside like in the picture) and pull towards you. This will release the big, center joint. This takes some force, so don't be afraid to pull on it a little.



    Now push the mirror all the way to the inside (like in the pictures above) and pull on the outside of the glass (like in the pictures above) to release the outside ball.

    Once this is done, push the top of the glass all the way in and pull from the bottom to release the final ball. The glass should now come right out.



    Here is what it looks like with the glass off



  3. Next step is to separate the two pieces of the mirror. This is done by removing the 3 T-25 torx screws.



    Removed and separated



  4. Now for the fun part; running wire. First, run two different wires through the mirror part as shown in the pictures below. Crimp the 7/64" female spade connectors onto the end of each wire.





    I tried a few different ways to get the wire through to where the mirror bolts to the car, and the easiest way involved using a metal coat hanger and fishing it through. This is hard to see/explain, but once you have it in front of you it will make more sense. From the car side, follow the wires to where they go into the base. They are wrapped in foam. Using one hand push the wires/foam off to the side and push the coat hanger through with the other hand (sorry for the terrible picture).



    View from the other side



    Next, tape a wire to the end of the coat hanger and pull it through.





    Before you pull it all the way through, tape the other wire to it so you now have two wires running through and coming out right where the mirror bolts to the car.



    Now run the wires as shown in the next picture. You'll have to thread them underneath the foam below the plug.



    Once you are happy with the wire runs, put the pieces back together and replace the 3 torx screws. Make sure to leave some slack on the mirror end (you need to make sure that the glass has full range of motion, and that the break away feature doesn't bind up the wires).

  5. Now, we need to put the new glass on the mirror. First, add lithium grease to the points where the balls go into the glass holder.



    Then, plug in the two spade connectors to the mirror and tuck them in the retaining clip.



    Once this is done, the glass can be put back on. Start by pushing the center of the glass onto the big ball. You are going to need to push pretty hard. Once it goes, you will know. Then tilt the glass to the outside and push it until that ball clicks in. Do the same with the bottom.

    Ready to be bolted onto the car.





  6. Next, we need to wire the mirror into the car. First, we need to remove the door panel :( I did not want to do this, but Mazda gives you no extra wire to work with. geddyhanzo did a good write up here, so I'm not going to repeat that. Once the door panel is removed, bolt the mirror back to the door being sure that you don't pinch the wires.





    Next, cut back some of the black felt that the wires are wrapped in. Separate the blue wire w/ red stripe and the black wire w/ white stripe from the rest of the wires. Then crimp the spice half of the splice connectors to each wire like in the picture below.



    Crimp the male spade connectors onto the end of the wires coming from the heated glass and plug them into the splices. You can attach these wires a bunch of different ways, this is just the way I chose. Zip tie any loose wires and replace the door panel.



  7. Turn the car on and push the rear defroster button. After a minute or so, feel the glass. It should be starting to get warm from the center out. If it is not getting warm, the glass is broken or the connections are not good. Take the glass off of the mirror and test to see if the wires are getting +12V when the defroster is on. If not, it's the connections, if so, it's the glass.

    If it is working, plug in the tweeter and replace the sail panel.

  8. Repeat all of the preceding steps for the passenger side.

  9. Enjoy your new heated mirrors! :D
If something doesn't make sense let me know, I'll try to explain better.

Sorry for such a long write up. I probably made it a little more detailed/long/wordy than necessary, but oh well. Let me know if you guys have any questions :)
 

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part number search produces no results, how much was each mirror?
 

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not bad at all, might have to do this...
 

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F*ck a sunroof.
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thanks for the right up. im going to do the same thing but with the mirros that have the blinker in them. im just going to spilce into the wires that are there for the blinker on the front of the mirror
Not sure how you would control the heated mirrors that way. I believe power only goes thru those wires when the blinker flashes. I could be wrong but it only seems logical. You may also blow fuses splicing into those low amp lines :mellow 1:
 

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Just did this yesterday and everything worked out great. Thanks again StitcH.
 

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You did them just in time huh? It started snowing on Sunday night at my house and hasn't stopped for more than an hour or so since. Ridiculous.
Yep, just snuck it in there
 

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Just had someone steal my passenger side mirror, why I have no clue...

Just wondering when you guys ordered the mirror listed was it just the glass? Or did it include the plastic frame that holds the mirror?

My local mazda is telling me its gonna cost $200 bux. Seems kinda excessive when you guys are talking about $30-50 for both.

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Just had someone steal my passenger side mirror, why I have no clue...

Just wondering when you guys ordered the mirror listed was it just the glass? Or did it include the plastic frame that holds the mirror?

My local mazda is telling me its gonna cost $200 bux. Seems kinda excessive when you guys are talking about $30-50 for both.

Thanks
The plastic frame that holds the mirror... Do you mean the thin black plastic that I am holding in this picture (not the actual mirror housing itself)?



As long as you mirror looks like this (except on the car obviously), then you are fine just ordering the glass.

 

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The plastic frame that holds the mirror... Do you mean the thin black plastic that I am holding in this picture (not the actual mirror housing itself)?



As long as you mirror looks like this (except on the car obviously), then you are fine just ordering the glass.
Thanks for the reply, thats good news....

What your grasping is exactly what I am looking for, the 2nd picture is exactly what mine currently looks like.

I am actually quite pissed off at my local mazda dealership, I think they were trying to scam me into getting the more expensive part, and charge more labour.

I went back to question them on it yesterday after seeing this thread, and the guy was like, here is the part manual the picture only shows the mirror and no backing, so i ordered the whole assembly.

When he showed me the mirror part# its description was Mirror and Holder. He said he wasnt sure if that included the backing.

I have a tough time believing that the service department has NEVER ordered a replacement mirror before.

Oh BTW, any change you have the part # for the passenger side mirror?

Humm This picture better discribes it...



Is this piece included with the mirror?
 

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I have the 2011 3 reg with NO heater or NO lights a truck hit the pass mirror .. $40 for the whote item mirror and plastic get all parts .com in rochester NY a body shop wanted $125 plus painting $200 cash I think I will go the chrome way and no painting needed ..
 

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Just finished this on my 2012 Skyactiv iTouring hatchback. Works great. It's good to know that the Skyactiv hatchback has the necessary wire harness even though I don't have the 2.5(probably because Mazda uses the same wiring harness on all hatchbacks). It'd be interesting to see if the sedan Skyactiv has it.
 
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