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A word of caution when trying to bleed brake fluid via the bleeder screw - the screw may be seized and forcing it is a no-no as I found it the hard way.

After replacing the rotors and pads on both front and rear brakes, I tried to bleed the 4 year old fluid via the bleeder screw. It was very tight, but I used a a wrench and forced it => which opened the bleeder screw but must have broke something as I could NOT close it or remove the screw !!!

Short of the long, I had the car towed to a dealer to replace the single caliper with the problematic screw because I could NOT use the brakes. I wanted a Mazda caliper on it.

I should have soaked the bleeder screw with a penetrating oil over night...

Another tidbit:
When pressing the rear caliper piston, if the turning/pressing does not push in the piston, you could try to open the bleeder screw to reduce pressure - provided that the bleeder screw turns without too much force.
 

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Borrow the special caliper tool from Advanced Auto, Autozone.Orilleys to assist turning in the piston on the rear brakes 2010 Mazda 3.
 

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sorry to wake up an old thread!

i have a 2011 Mazda 3 2.0L , getting ready to changed the rear pads and rotors. Will i Need to bleed the brakes? A couple response here says NO and a couple says YES. ??????
 

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sorry to wake up an old thread!

i have a 2011 Mazda 3 2.0L , getting ready to changed the rear pads and rotors. Will i Need to bleed the brakes? A couple response here says NO and a couple says YES. ??????
If all you are doing is swapping parts, no you don't need to bleed the brakes as long as you don't remove the lines or open the bleeders. However, if you have not changed the brake fluid recently now is the time when you have it apart and access is easy.
 
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