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well I had to do an instructional paper for my tech writing class so I pulled apart the front brakes on my 2,000 mile old MZ3 GT. I don't know if anybody would find this useful, but I have the entire process in PDF format.

CURRENTLY DISREGUARD ALL TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS UNTIL THEY ARE ADJUSTED TO THE PROPER SPECS. THE UPDATED VERSION WILL HAVE TRQ FOR ALL FASTENERS.

2010 Front brake disassembly and re-assembly.
 

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Really helpfull. Eventually I'd like to replace the pads with Hawk HPS. 87 ft/lbs sounds like a lot for the 17mm bracket bolts. Where did you get that torque setting from?
BTW chaulk is for blackboards. Chocks are for the wheels.:tongue:
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I need to edit the trq specs, I pulled it from my ass cause my Prof wouldn't know any better hahahaa. I thought I edited the version I posted here, ill change it so I don't get blamed for hundreds of snapped caliper bracket bolt heads: o
 

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Not to nit-pick your how-to, but if you emphasize "safety first" shouldn't you wear something more protective than those sandals?!?!?! (I did see the note, but its still funny)

LOL

Good write-up, it is a little too detailed for an everyday brake change, but I understand this is the right way for a class!
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Nice job, I was hoping to see some slotted rotors and new pads go on. :001_wub 1:
neither slotted nor drilled rotors will ever find their way onto any car I ever own. Don't even get me started on what a terrible idea they are. If you want them for looks, great. If you think they improve performance in any way shape or form you should be shot. /rant

Not to nit-pick your how-to, but if you emphasize "safety first" shouldn't you wear something more protective than those sandals?!?!?! (I did see the note, but its still funny)

LOL

Good write-up, it is a little too detailed for an everyday brake change, but I understand this is the right way for a class!
my girlfriend said the same thing. I had her look over it because the premise of the paper was doing an instruction for somebody who had never even seen what they are about to do, and since my gf has never done brakes I figured if it made sense to her it would work...first question after viewing was "sooo if you are supposed to be safe, whats with the sandals.." hence the added comment :eek:
 

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Just saw your how-to... great write-up. I want to paint my calipers and was thinking of pulling them to do so. This helps a lot!
 

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2 brake noob questions:

What's the reason for removing the reservoir cap?
To remove the entire brake caliper from the car, will it be necessary to bleed the brakes? I need to repaint my calipers and want don't want to battle with so much taping and crappy angles within the wheel well.
 

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What's the reason for removing the reservoir cap?
So that when you push the cylinder back in (step 23) the fluid does not build pressure and shoot it back out once you release it. The level is going to rise in the reservoir, so watch it and make sure fluid doesn't pour out.

To remove the entire brake caliper from the car, will it be necessary to bleed the brakes?
Once you put the calipers back on, yes, you are going to want to bleed the brakes very well. Any time you open the system, you're going to want to bleed. If you have a little bit of extra cash and are interested in an awesome tool to make bleeding SOOOOO much easier, I would recommend the Phoenix Systems V12 DIY. It's an awesome little tool.


On a completely unrelated note, Admin help you recover your old account I guess? :)
 

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Yeah, the new admin merged my old account and the new one I had created. I'm very happy about it.

When disconnecting the brake line from the caliper how much fluid will come out? Is there a break in the system to prevent fluid to just coming out the reservoir?

Have you used that V12 DIY bleeder yourself? I've been reading reviews of bleeder tools lately and nothing has received consistently good reviews that is under $100.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
also remember that all torque specs are made up for the purpose of a class assignment, I still haven't updated them to proper specs.
 
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Discussion Starter #20
The torque specs for the bolts to the caliper are 61-74 ft lbf and wheel lugs are 66-86.
thanks! I will edit the pdf some time this week when I get a chance so it can be authentic!
 
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