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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hey Friends.

Long time no post. My Bi xenon headlight motors stopped working, and the AFS light would start flashing every time I made a turn. I went to the dealer, and they wanted $117.00 to look at it, and who know's what else to fix the problem with my headlights. So I said screw it, I'm gonna do it myself.

So I did, and they work wonderfully now. Here's a how to thread of how to fix them.

Disclaimer: If you aren't comfortable with this, and do not like the idea of taking apart your car, I wouldn't recommend this to you. Work on your car at your risk.

You will need to TAKE OUT YOU HEAD LIGHTS AND BAKE THEM.

Materials:

A tube a silicone adhesive

Something thin to pry with

Screwdrivers

10 mm socket

Pliers

Your Moms Hair Dryer or heat gun

1. First thing I did was to take off the back of the headlights where the bulbs are. They are the grey part behind the headlight. These twist off, as indicated by the arrows. Assuming your car is off by now, try to move the bulb assembly very carefully. They should move freely from left to right. Do this to both headlights. The one that does not move freely is the one you will have to do surgery on.

My drivers side headlight was stuck, and the passenger's moved very freely.

2. Take off your bumper. Here's how to do that: http://mazda3revolution.com/forums/2010-2013-mazda-3-skyactiv-how-guides/50378-how-remove-front-bumper-grille-insert.html

3. Once you do this, unbolt the headlight. There are three bolts, and one plastic screw.

4. Disconnect the battery, then unplug everything attached to the headlight.

5. Pull that sucker out. :sneaky2 1:

6. Here's where the real fun begins. I've baked and painted my headlights in my old 3 (2010 2.5s). It sucks, but you have to take the lens off of the headlight to get to all of the mechanical parts of the AFS motor. Here's a video of how to do that: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dWP_begsySk

This isn't the Bixenon, but it is the same concept. Take your time, use your mom's hair dryer, and it'll be okay.

Disconnect the wiring from the headlight!!!!!!

7. Once you unscrew all plastic parts from the inside of the housing, you can see the motor of the projectors.
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8. Disconnect and unbolt this thing.
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9. Now to unbolt the projector itself. There are three bolts to do this.

These two: 10mm socket

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And this: This one is the little bolt that is connected to the brown part of the projector, and right next to the turn signal

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I suggest the ones on the back first, then the weird one. It's just easier.

You should have something that looks like this:
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If you do, continue on. You're doing great. Have a beer. You deserve it.

10. Now I decided to do a how to right about now, so I don't have picture of how I adjusted the part. Here's the best I could do. There are two metal prongs that stopped my projector from moving shown below. It's the circled parts
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You can unbolt this whole metal thing. Two screws. Carefully bend them up with pliers. In the second picture you can see where the metal prong was scraping on the projector. BEND IT AWAY FROM THE PROJECTOR. Your projector should move freely back and forth.If it doesn't, you can check the gears of the motor itself. I don't have a picture of that, but it is very easy to disassemble.

11. If it is moving freely, excellent. You're like a third of the way. Grab another beer. Reattach the headlight with just the projector. Like this.

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Put it back on the car. I bolted in the top two bolts, and reconnect all wires and electrical parts to it. Make sure the ballast is on the bottom and connected. It looks pretty mean.

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12. Reconnect the battery. Start the car with the headlights off. I did this because I'm weird, but it couldn't hurt. Turn on the headlights. If the headlights don't come on, check your wires. Make sure everything is plugged back in.

13. Go for a drive carefully and slow. Just enough so that the headlights can turn their full range. Make sure the ASF button is ON. Turn both left and right. Hopefully this worked for you.

14.Now if you want to paint this headlight. Go for it. I didn't. I took out all of the old silicone, and put everything back together. I resealed it with clear silicone adhesive, found at any car parts store. I clamped it so it would make a nice bond. Here's the finished headlight.

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15. Let the silicone cure, and put your car back together.


This worked for me, and I saved money doing it. It took about 4 hours for me.

I hope this helps someone.

Questions and problems, please let me know. My email is [email protected]
 

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Hi, nice write-up!

For anyone reading this and thinking about doing, I would recommend to use UCL BUTYL RUBBER. It is used by headlight manufacturers. The problem with silicone is that if you ever need to open those headlight up again, the silicone will be very difficult to clean and scrape off. Not to mention that with road vibration and harsh conditions, the silicone will start drying out and braking apart, while butyl lasts longer.

I've used both and prefer butyl.


Cheers! :smile2:
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks man, I didn't realize this. Hopefully mine will hold up for a bit
 
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