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Hey I've got a 2012 3i Hatchback with 116k, and I believe the ride has been getting rougher over the last 10k miles or so. I mean by that for example that going over speed bumps is very uncomfortable unless at a crawl. It has also recently started making a knocking noise in the rear when going over bumps, but this may not be related to the ride from the driver's perspective. Would replacing my suspension fix the rough ride and maybe the clunk? I'd probably replace with OEM since the others have done well, but I also read KYB makes some similar to stock. The biggest question right now is do I replace the entire assembly for the front or just the struts. Thanks I appreciate your help.
 

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If the shock are original, they stopped working about 50k miles ago. Replace all four dampers - rear shocks and front struts. Its a lot easier to replace the fronts as a unit. Takes about 20 minutes a side doing it that way with the proper tools.
I've found most KYB products to be similar in appearance only, as in they are shock shaped objects...
 

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Ah thanks for the reply, I'll look for OEM then. So for the front when you say to replace them as a unit, you mean the entire assembly, including the coil, to avoid needing a spring compressor?
 

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So for the front when you say to replace them as a unit, you mean the entire assembly, including the coil, to avoid needing a spring compressor?
Yes, they come as an assembly. Three bolts on top of the fender, a couple large bolts on the hub, remove whatever ABS sensor attachments etc then remove the assembly as one piece. As long as its not too rusty it should come out pretty easy. No spring compressor but you'll need a torque wrench to install the dampers properly.
 

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It could very well be your struts but also do a full inspection of bushings and ball joints. A lot can be making noise at that age and mileage.
 

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I put the Monroe front assembly on this weekend, and the back set is on its way. Everything seemed in working order, though I will say for anyone doing this that fitting the new one into the knuckle did not go smoothly like in the videos. I had to end up using a crowbar (a hammer also worked) on the back side of the knuckle to pry it open and allow the strut to fall into place. This was especially necessary on the driver's side -- the passenger was easier. Thanks for the help, guys.
 

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Everything seemed in working order, though I will say for anyone doing this that fitting the new one into the knuckle did not go smoothly like in the videos.
Supporting the weight with a hydraulic jack and jiggling it works best. You eventually get the angle right and then it's just a tapitty tap tap with a hammer.
CK
 

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That was my experience with the passenger side, but the driver side was much, much more difficult.

I put the Monroe 5683 on the rear today -- very easy! I am wondering now, with having done both the front and back, do I need to get a realignment?
 

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I got a realignment this morning, even though I wasn't detecting any issues. Sure enough, the printout from the shop showed that everything was within spec before I brought it in. Maybe you would need one if you installed a brand that differed significantly from OEM.
 

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I got a realignment this morning, even though I wasn't detecting any issues. Sure enough, the printout from the shop showed that everything was within spec before I brought it in. Maybe you would need one if you installed a brand that differed significantly from OEM.
How does the car feel after the change from OEM to Monroe?
 
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