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So, being fairly new to the forums but not new to fabrication or trying new things out I figured I'd help out us guys who want an oil catch can but don't want to pay an arm and a leg for it. Start with these parts!
For full pictures check here: 2010 MAZDASPEED 3 OCC pictures by amello7580 - Photobucket
Start by cutting a piece of PVC to a size you like, mine was cut to just under 8 inches. Volume for this with the 2" pvc pipe makes it just under .5 liters. I will be running 2. One for my pcv and one for the valve cover.
One of the caps will have the the 3/4" to 1/2" reducer elbows the other will have the drain.
Start by drilling the cap for the elbow. I used a step drill bit which I believe i used it up to 13/16".
At this point I was only checking the fit, dont permanently install it yet. You will be soldering and working with the fitting before installing it.
The inside of the fitting needs to be drilled to fit the 1/2" copper pipe.
Then solder it or use jb weld or whatever you prefer.
Let the piece cool and then take a tubing cutter and etch some lines on the pipe equally spaced and about an inch from the solder point.
Seal the opposite end with jb weld.. a 1/2" cap would be preferred but home depot was out of stock.. weird.
2010 MAZDASPEED 3 OCC :: 2011-11-16_16-37-04_560.jpg picture by amello7580 - Photobucket
Once the jb weld sets and hardens commence the drilling. I used an automatic center punch and a 1/16" drill bit but if you think you will need the extra flow (running big power-> more blowby) you can run a 1/8" bit.
From there you can add the window screen mesh. I chose fiberglass mesh because it's easy to work with and surprisingly chemical resistant and durable in this application.
This is actually the correct length you should use. The picture was taken before I drilled the pipe. The first drill hole was actually 1/4" below the beginning to the mesh.
Then wrap the pipe with the mesh.
I used some "super" electrical tape from radioshack to wrap the ends. Once again, chemical resistant. Use some zip ties or something too as backup.. Just make sure that the Outer diameter of the mesh and tape doesn't exceed 3/4" so you can fit it through the hole in the pvc cap.
PVC cement in the caps and drill another 13/16" hole into the cap. Insert the straight nipple in there and you just need to finish the assembly.
I plan on using some pex piping painted black and clamps for my setup to give it a nice look and excellent performance. From here on out you are on your own from how you route or which kind of hose you want to use.
Once my install is done I will show some pics and give a weekly drain sample pic. The mesh wrapped around the copper piping changes the direction of gas flow and helps catch the oil and water vapor and allows it to run down the mesh and into the can. Hope this helps someone. I also plan on painting the cans black..
IMPORTANT!
Drill the holes so that they dont vent straight toward the outlet. makes sense right?
Ninja out :shuriken:

For full pictures check here: 2010 MAZDASPEED 3 OCC pictures by amello7580 - Photobucket
Start by cutting a piece of PVC to a size you like, mine was cut to just under 8 inches. Volume for this with the 2" pvc pipe makes it just under .5 liters. I will be running 2. One for my pcv and one for the valve cover.
One of the caps will have the the 3/4" to 1/2" reducer elbows the other will have the drain.


Start by drilling the cap for the elbow. I used a step drill bit which I believe i used it up to 13/16".

At this point I was only checking the fit, dont permanently install it yet. You will be soldering and working with the fitting before installing it.


The inside of the fitting needs to be drilled to fit the 1/2" copper pipe.

Then solder it or use jb weld or whatever you prefer.

Let the piece cool and then take a tubing cutter and etch some lines on the pipe equally spaced and about an inch from the solder point.


Seal the opposite end with jb weld.. a 1/2" cap would be preferred but home depot was out of stock.. weird.
2010 MAZDASPEED 3 OCC :: 2011-11-16_16-37-04_560.jpg picture by amello7580 - Photobucket


Once the jb weld sets and hardens commence the drilling. I used an automatic center punch and a 1/16" drill bit but if you think you will need the extra flow (running big power-> more blowby) you can run a 1/8" bit.


From there you can add the window screen mesh. I chose fiberglass mesh because it's easy to work with and surprisingly chemical resistant and durable in this application.

This is actually the correct length you should use. The picture was taken before I drilled the pipe. The first drill hole was actually 1/4" below the beginning to the mesh.
Then wrap the pipe with the mesh.

I used some "super" electrical tape from radioshack to wrap the ends. Once again, chemical resistant. Use some zip ties or something too as backup.. Just make sure that the Outer diameter of the mesh and tape doesn't exceed 3/4" so you can fit it through the hole in the pvc cap.

PVC cement in the caps and drill another 13/16" hole into the cap. Insert the straight nipple in there and you just need to finish the assembly.

I plan on using some pex piping painted black and clamps for my setup to give it a nice look and excellent performance. From here on out you are on your own from how you route or which kind of hose you want to use.
Once my install is done I will show some pics and give a weekly drain sample pic. The mesh wrapped around the copper piping changes the direction of gas flow and helps catch the oil and water vapor and allows it to run down the mesh and into the can. Hope this helps someone. I also plan on painting the cans black..
IMPORTANT!
Drill the holes so that they dont vent straight toward the outlet. makes sense right?

Ninja out :shuriken: