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Disclaimer: Do this mod at your own risk. I am not responsible for any damage you do to your car as a result of this mod!!!

This how-to explains the process of adding turn signals to your side mirrors. I did this on my 2012 Mazda 3 i GT hatchback and it took awhile since I couldn't find any guides. I started looking into this mod awhile ago after reading this thread. I originally thought I had to buy brand new OEM housings from Mazda that support the turn signals. That route seemed too expensive and I held off for months. Jun Peng on the FB group (not sure what his username is on here) was the first (to my knowlege) to install the turn signals into his existing OEM non-turn signal housings. After he did that, I knew I should be able to use my current housings too and not worry about spending lots of money on new OEM housings.

I ended up buying cheap "Kool Vue" OE mirror housings on ebay that look identical the OEM style:

New Mirror Driver Side Heated Power Primered in Housing Turn Signal Light LH | eBay ($68.30)
New Mirror Passenger Side Power Heated Primered in Housing Turn Signal Light RH | eBay ($35.85)

My goal was to rip these apart and take the turn signal lights and wiring out of them. I didn't want to put these housings on my car since OEM quality is probably better and my current housings are wired up for the blind spot monitoring system that came with the tech package.

Those ebay housings did come with new mirror covers that fit with the turn signals but I ended up just buying new OEM painted mirror covers from onlinemazdaparts.com (total cost: $60.92 after shipping). The ebay covers felt cheap and it didn't seem worth it for me to try painting them myself (after getting primer, matching paint, clearcoat, etc). I contacted Jason at onlinemazdaparts to find out the part number for my color. For Sky Blue (41B), the part numbers are: G33D691N140 (right side) and G33D691N740 (left side).

After buying all of the above items, the total cost of this mod was $165.07.

This is probably the most complicated way of doing this since I'm ripping apart ebay housings to get the turn signal lights and wiring and I'm modding my existing OEM housings instead of just replacing the housings. I chose this route because I have the OEM blind spot monitoring system mirrors so I wanted to keep those. This how-to is very long as a result of the complexity of this mod. The whole project took me close to 6 hours (roughly 2-3 hours per mirror plus the time it took for me to figure everything out).

There are also a few other options you should consider:

  • ZestJDM sells the turn signal lights, wiring, and mirror covers for $119 + shipping. They apparently also paint the covers for an additional cost. JDM LED Mirror Covers. I found these after I had already ordered my ebay housings. I would seriously consider this option since you don't have to waste time ripping apart ebay housings. This option would likely cost slightly more than what I paid but it will save you some time.
  • Buy new OEM housings and painted mirror covers from Online Mazda Parts (probably the most expensive option)
  • Buy the aftermarket "OE" housings like I did and use them instead of your existing OEM housings. You will also need painted mirror covers from onlinemazdaparts.com (~$60.92) or paint the included covers yourself.
  • Buy used OEM housings that have turn signals from a junkyard. You will also need painted mirror covers from onlinemazdaparts.com (~$60.92) or paint the included covers yourself.

Tools/Materials Required
  • Socket Wrench and 8mm socket (useful, but not required)
  • 8mm Wrench
  • T25 torx screwdriver
  • Flathead screwdrivers
  • Phillips screwdriver
  • Needle or maybe a paperclip
  • Wire cutters/strippers (not needed if you don't have heated mirrors)
  • WireTwists/splicers (not needed if you don't have heated mirrors)
  • Multimeter would be helpful (I didn't have one)
  • Pliers

Confirm that your car has turn signal wiring to the door
This guide assumes that your car does have turn signal wiring up to the door. If you don't have it, then you will have to figure out how to tap into the front turn signal wiring.

  1. Pull the top side part of the triangular tweeter/door cover. It is held in by a plastic clip, which should pull right out.
  2. Stick your hand in near the 2nd white plastic clip near the bottom right corner of the cover. Pull back that area to remove it from the door.
  3. Take a look at the white door connector that plugs into the mirror housing. The turn signal wire is the center wire and it grounds to the bottom left wire:


    It's kind of hard to see in my picture, but my car has wires in every wire slot on the connector (8 wires total). If the center turn signal wire and bottom left ground wire are present in your car you can do this mod!

Remove turn signal lights and wiring from ebay housings
You can ignore this step if you bought the ZestJDM kit or new OEM turn signal housings.

Here are some pictures of what the ebay housings looked like:



  1. Disconnect the first black connector (the one right before the wires go into the housing.
  2. Unscrew the single screw holding the turn signal light into the housing.
  3. Pull the light out and set aside.
  4. Unscrew the 3 screws on the bottom of the housing (on my ebay housings they were phillips screws but on the OEM housings they were T25 torx screws). This allows you to pull the housing apart and makes pulling the wires out easier.
  5. Now onto the white connector. I got so frustrated and wasted so much time on this part :argh 1:. The connector looks like this:


    I think you're supposed to stick a needle or something in the J-shaped slot next to the female pin hole and somehow release the cable, but I ended up just pulling the pin cover off with pliers, revealing all of the female pins:


    I pretty much destroyed the white connectors on the ebay housings lol. I didn't care though since I only wanted the lights and wiring.
  6. I figured out that there is a lock built into the white connector that locks those wires in place. I inserted a needle into the small hole on each of the sides and lifted the flat piece up:



    I also used a small flat head screwdriver in the notch near the top of the flat lock piece to help lift it up.
  7. Next, I jammed the needle into the plastic tabs that were holding the female pins in. I don't know if this step is necessary because I did it before figuring out that lock piece in the previous step. I was then able to push and pull the wires out. Unfortunately I don't have a good enough camera to take a picture of these plastic pieces holding the pins in. Just make sure you don't damage the metal pin connectors on each wire.
    The connectors at the end of each wire look like this:

  8. Once I had all of the wires out of the white connector I simply pulled them all out of the ebay housing.
  9. Separate the two turn signal light wires from the rest of the wires. Set them aside with the turn signal light and put the rest of the housing somewhere else since we are done with it.
  10. Repeat these steps for the other ebay housing.

Remove OEM housing from Door

  1. Pull the top side part of the triangular tweeter/door cover. It is held in by a plastic clip, which should pull right out.
  2. Stick your hand in near the 2nd white plastic clip near the bottom right corner of the cover. Pull back that area to remove it from the door.
  3. Unscrew the 3 bolts that hold the mirror housing on the door. I used a socket wrench for 2 of them but the other one was too close to the door panel for a socket wrench so I had to use a small 8mm wrench.


    Make sure you don't accidentally drop a bolt down into the door panel... that would suck!
  4. Carefully lift the mirror housing up and away from the door to remove.
  5. The mirror housing white connector will pull out of the housing but will still be connected to the door's white connector. Either push down on the lever on the door side of the connector or use a flat head screwdriver to lift the lock that holds them together on the housing side of the connector and pull them apart.
  6. I brought my housing inside to do the wiring and install the light, so I put the tweeter/door cover back on so I could shut my car door while I was inside my house working on the mirror housing.

Remove Mirror Glass

  1. Follow Mazda's instructions: OUTER MIRROR GLASS REMOVAL
  2. Unplug any wires connected to the mirror glass (blind spot monitor light, heated mirror, etc)
  3. Here are some pictures:




Remove Old Painted Mirror Covers

  • My instructions for this step won't be very helpful. I hated this part and was not able to remove the mirror covers using the way Mazda recommends in their service manual: OUTER MIRROR GARNISH REMOVAL/INSTALLATION
  • They tell you to remove the mirror glass and pinch 3 tabs inside the housing to get the mirror cover off. I don't know if my flathead screwdrivers weren't the right size or what but I could not get the mirror covers off using their method.
  • I ended up using a very small flat head screwdriver to pry the back area near the black mirror housing plastic. I started in the area near the clip:


    Be careful though, I left a few small marks in my black mirror housing plastic near the area where I pried the mirror cover off. I also left a few marks on the edges of the old mirror covers, but I didn't care since I have new mirror covers (to fit the turn signal light).

Install Turn Signal Light into OEM Housing

  1. Snap the light into the bottom of the back part of the OEM housing.
  2. Screw the light into the housing (there is an existing screw hole for it on all OEM housings).


Run Wiring to White Housing Connector

  1. Unscrew the 3 T25 torx screws on the bottom of the housing. This allows you to pull the housing apart and makes running the wires easier.
  2. If you currently have heated mirrors, you should only need to run the turn signal cable (mine was orange) to the center pin slot of the white connector. The turn signal's ground wire taps into the heated mirror ground wire. If you do not have heated mirrors then you need to run both wires to the white connector.
  3. The OEM housings have some foam stuff wrapped around the area where the wires are run through the housing to the white connector. I used a flathead screwdriver to poke holes through it and to help pull the new wire through.
  4. After running the wire(s) to the connector, go ahead and put the top and bottom of the housing back together and screw the 3 T25 screws back in.
  5. It is now time to insert the wire(s) into the back of the connector. This part took me awhile to figure out because I thought I just had to push them in. I found out you have to "unlock" the connector in order to insert the pins (like I ended up doing when I was removing them above). To do this, just insert a needle or maybe a paperclip in the holes on the sides and lift it up so it sticks out a bit:


  6. Now you should be able to freely insert the pin(s) into the white connector. They should only go in one way. If I remember correctly, the little metal piece that kind of sticks out from the square part faces the left side (same side as the "L" shaped slot by each pin hole on the other side of the white connector; see picture in #5 of the first section). In my case, the orange wire's pin goes in the center pin hole of the white connector. This is the pin that tells the turn signal light to come on when you have your turn signals on. Now if you do not have heated mirrors you should connect your other wire to the bottom leftmost pin slot (see diagram below):



    My other wire (green wire) does not get run down to the connector since I have heated mirrors (which share the same ground). As a result, I had to figure out which black heated mirror wire was the ground (bottom leftmost pin). I ended up cutting the wrong wire on both of my housings so I had to wire twist the wrong wire I cut back together and cut the correct wire. A multimeter would've been useful here.
  7. If you have heated mirrors these next few steps apply to you only. If you don't, continue on to the next section.
  8. You need to figure out which heated mirror wire to cut in order to connect the turn signal to the correct ground. If you have a multimeter this part should be easy. I didn't have one, so here is a good way to figure out which wire you need to splice into:
    1. bring your housing back out to your car
    2. reconnect the white connector to the door connector
    3. put your key in the ignition and turn it to accessory
    4. turn your turn signal on for the side you're testing (or the hazard lights).
    5. turn your rear defrost on (this turns on the heated mirrors)
    6. Hold the turn signal light's ground wire (mine was green) and one of the black heated mirror wires together so the metal ends make contact. Check and see if the turn signal light comes on. If it does, you found the right heated mirror wire to cut! Mark it with tape or something so you know which wire it is.
  9. Splice the turn signal light's ground wire (again mine was green) and the correct heated mirror ground wire together. To do this, I cut the heated mirror ground wire in the back of the housing (near where the wires come in) and then had 3 wire ends (including the turn signal light ground wire) to splice together with a wiretwist. If you've never used these before, you have to strip the end of each wire with wire strippers to about the same length and then hold all 3 ends next to eachother and twist a wiretwist connector on them until you see 1-2 twists in the unstripped part of the wires. The wiretwist should be tight enough that it doesn't fall off.
  10. After I spliced into the correct ground, the back of my housing looked like this:


Final Steps
  1. Reattach mirror housing to door (reverse above instructions). Make sure the white mirror housing connector slides back into it's little recessed compartment.
  2. Reconnect heated mirror wires (and blind spot monitoring system wires if you have them) to the mirror glass
  3. Do several tests:
    1. Verify mirror turn signal lights work when turn signals/hazard lights are on
    2. Verify mirror turn signal lights work when turn signals/hazard lights and rear defrost (heated mirrors) are on
    3. Verify that the heated mirrors warm up (if you have heated mirrors)
    4. Verify the BSM (blind spot monitoring) mirror lights illuminate when you initially turn the car on to accessory and that there is no blinking BSM Off light on the dashboard (if your car is equipped with the blind spot monitoring system)
  4. If everything looks good, put the mirror glass back in. See: OUTER MIRROR GLASS INSTALLATION. Be very careful with this step. I accidentally broke one of the ball joints (pin B) in my driver's side mirror :(. When I was putting the mirror glass back in, I pushed the mirror into pin C first like you're supposed to do and then I incorrectly pushed the mirror into pin B. Apparently you're supposed to do pin A before pin B. Not sure if that is why I snapped it off or not. If you break one of these ball joints (like I did) you either have to try gluing it back on or buy a new/used housing since Mazda apparently doesn't sell power mirror motors separately :argh 1:.
  5. Finally, put your new painted mirror covers on. Line them up properly and they should just snap right in. Make sure all edges are securely snapped in.
  6. Enjoy your new turn signal mirrors!



Other Useful Links

Let me know if you have any questions!
 

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Nice how-to! Definitely doing this soon although it's getting a bit cold where I am and afraid I might snap some plastic parts from them being a bit more brittle because of the cold.

Quick question, are the ZestJDM original mazda parts? Or replicas? Sent an email to them but no reply yet.

I plan on sticking to OEM parts as much as possible.
 

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Thanks for the write up! The pictures are extremely helpful. In the first picture of the Ebay mirrors..Do the ebay mirror housing come with black (painted) mirror caps?

I'm curious because my car is black mica.. and if I can save $60 that would be great!
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Very nice write up, nothing that I'd do but looks like you put a lot of time into it and i'm sure it'll benefit a good amount of people wanting to do this mod...
Thanks! It was definitely very time consuming but I'm happy with the result.

Nice how-to! Definitely doing this soon although it's getting a bit cold where I am and afraid I might snap some plastic parts from them being a bit more brittle because of the cold.

Quick question, are the ZestJDM original mazda parts? Or replicas? Sent an email to them but no reply yet.

I plan on sticking to OEM parts as much as possible.
I'm not sure... probably replicas. I don't think it matters much though... all the lights look the same and probably come from the same place (probably China haha).

Thanks for the write up! The pictures are extremely helpful. In the first picture of the Ebay mirrors..Do the ebay mirror housing come with black (painted) mirror caps?

I'm curious because my car is black mica.. and if I can save $60 that would be great!
They are unpainted. What you see in the picture is how they come. From the auction it sounds like they are just primered. It definitely looks black and glossy though so I don't know. It might look alright with your car unpainted.
 

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Thanks for another great write up! Really appreciate you taking the time and effort on this very detailed write up! I def plan on this for my own ride in the future now...

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using AutoGuide App
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I just ordered the ebay ones... are they simply plug n play with the skyactiv? (no bsm)
Yes they are plug and play! Just confirm that the wiring is present on the door side of the connector.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
They should. They looked identical.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
Are the eBay ones feel cheap?
They felt decent. I did notice that they use a different mount to hold the mirror glass to the motor. It looks pretty much like this inside. I don't know what's better, that mount or Mazda's OEM mount. I just preferred to use my OEM ones. Everything else looks identical though.

Guys be careful if you start taking the mirror glass out of the OEM mirrors. When I put it back in awhile ago I broke off one of the ball joint things that attach the mirror glass to the mirror motor and hold it in. I finally got around to replacing the base of the mirror motor today. I'm not messing with the mirrors again haha. If you break one of those ball joints your only options are to buy a whole new housing or buy a used one to either salvage a mirror motor assembly from or replace your housing with the used housing. I luckily found a used housing from a 2011 3 on ebay for $58 and took the mirror motor assembly out of it to replace my broken one.
 

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Quick question, strictly for clarification purposes.

Do you have the blind spot monitoring as well? Think that is going to make a difference in the wiring? I just hit up Jason who didn't think I could purchase the OEM setup with signals and bolt them on. I've got a '12 3i GT as well but with the Technology Package.

*edit*

Reread your posts. Looks like you do have the BSM but I do not have heated mirrors. Provided I purchase a full OEM housing replacement everything should be plug and play correct? The wiring for the turn signal and such should already be part of the new OEM housing itself. My wiring harness (from the car/door) looks identical to yours. Based on the following section, I can completely skip if I buy a new OEM unit.

Unscrew the 3 T25 torx screws on the bottom of the housing. This allows you to pull the housing apart and makes running the wires easier.
If you currently have heated mirrors, you should only need to run the turn signal cable (mine was orange) to the center pin slot of the white connector. The turn signal's ground wire taps into the heated mirror ground wire. If you do not have heated mirrors then you need to run both wires to the white connector.
The OEM housings have some foam stuff wrapped around the area where the wires are run through the housing to the white connector. I used a flathead screwdriver to poke holes through it and to help pull the new wire through.
After running the wire(s) to the connector, go ahead and put the top and bottom of the housing back together and screw the 3 T25 screws back in.
It is now time to insert the wire(s) into the back of the connector. This part took me awhile to figure out because I thought I just had to push them in. I found out you have to "unlock" the connector in order to insert the pins (like I ended up doing when I was removing them above). To do this, just insert a needle or maybe a paperclip in the holes on the sides and lift it up so it sticks out a bit:
I'm assuming then I can purchase the OEM housing, getting part numbers from Jason now, and then just swap the whole housing. Does that sound correct?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
Quick question, strictly for clarification purposes.

Do you have the blind spot monitoring as well? Think that is going to make a difference in the wiring? I just hit up Jason who didn't think I could purchase the OEM setup with signals and bolt them on. I've got a '12 3i GT as well but with the Technology Package.

*edit*

Reread your posts. Looks like you do have the BSM but I do not have heated mirrors. Provided I purchase a full OEM housing replacement everything should be plug and play correct? The wiring for the turn signal and such should already be part of the new OEM housing itself. My wiring harness (from the car/door) looks identical to yours. Based on the following section, I can completely skip if I buy a new OEM unit.



I'm assuming then I can purchase the OEM housing, getting part numbers from Jason now, and then just swap the whole housing. Does that sound correct?
Yep I do have blind spot monitoring. I have the 2012 i GT with tech package so I have all that stuff. Why don't you have heated mirrors? I believe they are standard on the GT. Turn your rear defrost on and see if the mirrors heat up. Yes the full OEM replacement housing would work, it's probably the most expensive way of doing this though. Perhaps you could sell your old housings to get some money back.

I got the part numbers from Jason awhile ago if you're interested:
Onlinemazdaparts.com got back to me regarding adding the turn signal indicators to the iGT w/ tech package. He also said that the wirinng is not in place to support it, but gave me the part numbers anyway. I questioned him about the wiring not being in place and pointed him to Brian085's post, but he said he knows for a fact it wouldn't work because a customer tried to do the same thing. It looks like I would need:

BHB2-69-12ZD - Right side mirror housing (w/ heated, w/ turn signals, w/ BSM) - $322.52
BHB2-69-18ZD - Left side mirror housing (w/ heated, w/ turn signals, w/ BSM) - $322.52
G33D-69-1N1-40 - Sky Blue painted cap - Right side mirror cap - $26.07
G33D-69-1N7-40 - Sky Blue painted cap - Left side mirror cap - $26.07

Ultimately, it doesn't seem worth it for me to spend $700 for turn signal indicators...
Obviously you will need to ask him for the correct part number for the painted mirror covers for your color though (unless you have Sky Blue too haha).

Derek
 

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Yep I do have blind spot monitoring. I have the 2012 i GT with tech package so I have all that stuff. Why don't you have heated mirrors? I believe they are standard on the GT. Turn your rear defrost on and see if the mirrors heat up. Yes the full OEM replacement housing would work, it's probably the most expensive way of doing this though. Perhaps you could sell your old housings to get some money back.

I got the part numbers from Jason awhile ago if you're interested:


Obviously you will need to ask him for the correct part number for the painted mirror covers for your color though (unless you have Sky Blue too haha).

Derek
Appreciate the reply Derek, I didn't see any indication of the side view mirrors being heated and figured they weren't. I have always seen it as a separate button, I will give it a shot and see how if they heat up though!

I talked to Jason as well and think he hooked me up with those same numbers. I've been scouring the internets to find the right mirrors (junkyard first for testing) and then go from there. May end up buying new or if I can find great condition parts yard stuff just buy the caps.
 

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well i have a simple question. does the mirror cover just pops off with like a pry tool. or is it held by screws?
i just wanna change the covers on the mirrors
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
well i have a simple question. does the mirror cover just pops off with like a pry tool. or is it held by screws?
i just wanna change the covers on the mirrors
Apparently the proper way to remove the covers is to take the mirror glass out and bend and push like 3 clips inside with flatheaded screwdrivers. I was not able to get mine off this way... maybe my screwdrivers sucked idk. So I just pried them off lol. They are not held in by any screws just clips.

See: OUTER MIRROR GARNISH REMOVAL/INSTALLATION
 
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