2004 to 2016 Mazda 3 Forum and Mazdaspeed 3 Forums banner

1 - 20 of 25 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I've got a 2010 3 Hatch with the advanced keyless and tech package. It's got an electronically controlled hatch release and lock that usually opens by pressing the button in the center of the hatch. It no longer opens.

Two days ago i went into the hatch, closed it, and then had to sit in the car waiting for someone. I noticed that the hatch latch kept cycling, locking and unlocking, without anyone pressing the button (car was completly off, but unlocked). I finally got out of the car, opened and closed the hatch, and locked the car and the locking and unlocking finally stopped.

I didn't try to go into the hatch again until today, and get nothing when I press the button. I can release the latch by popping open the latch cover and using the manual release. The latch moves freely and is well lubricated.

Where's the problem? I'd hate to throw a new latch at this problem if the problem really is with the button or some relay. Any advice? Tests I can run? Thanks in advance.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
779 Posts
If it's on warranty, dealer. If not, you might want to check connections. Sounds like it was contacting and not at times. Possibly the vibration of the lock/unlock actions moving the contact. The lock is probably set to lock by default. I imagine there were no obstructions in the way of the locking mechanism. Other than that, bad button switch? or parts need lube or obstruction in mechanisms. It's a pretty simple system back there. Sensor Switch, power, mechanism. No fancy computer signals to make it work.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Thanks Stevar,

Way out of warranty. (90k miles)

When I took it out just now, as soon as I turned the car off, I heard the hatch open trigger. Same behavior as before, constantly wanting to open until i lock the car.

Sound like a stuck switch to you? Making contact all the time, triggering the open action, but the latch ignores it when the car is locked? All I can think of. If the latch is opening when triggered, that means it's good right?

So then the next question is any recommendations for a parts place that'll have that button that won't cost an arm and a leg?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
779 Posts
I was wondering if your keys would be in your pocket hitting the remote locking and unlocking all your doors. I'm assuming that you are aware that the door locks open automatically when you turn off your car. But It sound like you'd be aware of that.

Like I mentioned, it sounds like a bad contact that finally got worst and is not contacting enough to work at all now. I'd check that first. Remove the contacts from the push button switch, clean them using super fine sandpaper or even an abrasive eraser, use a multitester to check if the power supply is still there (usually 12 volts) if the supply is fine, connect the connectorss to the switch contact and try it out. If nothing works your push button switch needs replaced. You could get another one cheap on ebay or a wrecker.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Yeah, the lock state doesn't have any effect on the problem (I had my keys out of my pocket to be 100% sure, and I also used the rear hatch lock button in the tail light to make sure the fob was talking to the car).

Next step will be what you suggest, but I"ll probably just buy the switch new. Looks like it's about $60 online, and if I"m going to have the hatch apart, I might as well have the parts to throw in.

Any how-to's on getting the plastic on the hatch off so I can get to all this stuff?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
394 Posts
Just had this same problem start happening to me today. I think it's the button. :( all the plastic is really easy to take apart and the button is super easy to take out. Did it all in about 10 minutes, took everything apart, and I can't figure out anything to fix it. I think the open signal from the switch is just stuck so it just opens constantly. I unplugged it because the latch motor was SUPER hot and I don't wanna wear that out in the process. Ha


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
394 Posts
Yeah, the lock state doesn't have any effect on the problem (I had my keys out of my pocket to be 100% sure, and I also used the rear hatch lock button in the tail light to make sure the fob was talking to the car).

Next step will be what you suggest, but I"ll probably just buy the switch new. Looks like it's about $60 online, and if I"m going to have the hatch apart, I might as well have the parts to throw in.

Any how-to's on getting the plastic on the hatch off so I can get to all this stuff?
Where did you find it for $60?


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
I'm having this same problem now too. 2010 hatchback 6speed only 35,000 miles (yes the parking brake is on).
When i unlock the car, either at the door or on the fob, all doors lock/unlock but the hatch doesnt.
I wonder how many more people are experiencing this?

Lalmeister, can you do a writeup for the $60 switch fix?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
394 Posts
I'm having this same problem now too. 2010 hatchback 6speed only 35,000 miles (yes the parking brake is on).
When i unlock the car, either at the door or on the fob, all doors lock/unlock but the hatch doesnt.
I wonder how many more people are experiencing this?

Lalmeister, can you do a writeup for the $60 switch fix?
I just completely took mine apart, left it unplugged for a few hours, put it back together, and it worked fine. Ha


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
if you're counting

add me to this list too. seems to be more prevalent and warrants designation as a design flaw. I'm at 48K miles, owned for 34 months.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
I too am having this problem. It started about 1k Miles ago at about 49K. I don't want to waste a trip to the dealer and have to end up paying $200+ in labor and parts when i can do it my self. I do have subs, I was thinking the vibration and the constant banging on the hatch might be part of the problem. Any ideas?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Same issue on my 2010 3 5-door. Took it to the Mazda dealer and they can't figure out the issue either. The diagnostic computer says the hatch latch is connected to the passenger door latch so they are going to replace both. Seems fishy to me...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
I too am having this problem. It started about 1k Miles ago at about 49K. I don't want to waste a trip to the dealer and have to end up paying $200+ in labor and parts when i can do it my self. I do have subs, I was thinking the vibration and the constant banging on the hatch might be part of the problem. Any ideas?
What did you do to repair this? What did the dealership/mechanic tell you?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
What did you do to repair this? What did the dealership/mechanic tell you?
I still haven't brought it in because I recently got a job and with school there isn't much time. Also due to the lack of caring because as of right now I really don't use my trunk. Although it would nice to be able to open it when ever id like to...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
Just dealt with this problem myself. After taking apart my hatch, I tested the switch for the actuator. It was faulty. I called my local Mazda dealership, and they wanted $92+tax, so I told them to shove it. I had a couple momentary switches laying around from other electronic stuff I've done in the past, and tested to see if they would work. Sure enough, the momentary switch is a great replacement. So I drilled out the housing for the old switch, slipped in the momentary switch, hot glued it in, and soldered the old wires to the new switch. Works flawlessly. $.30 switch vs. $100 to Mazda. If you're wondering what a momentary switch is, just go to The Source, or Radio Shack, they carry them there. Good luck!
 
1 - 20 of 25 Posts
Top