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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I have a question for anyone who understands the electronics and wiring of the 3rd gen Mazda 3s.

I just ordered some GT replica headlights for my halogen-equipped (iTouring, 2016) Mazda 3.

After install, it seems that the LED strip is only used as the parking light and the projector is used as the DRL/low/highbeam.

Is there a way to wire up the parking light to come on with the DRLs?

This is what I got:

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2014 2015 2016 Mazda 3 Halogen LED Tube Upgrade Projector Headlights Headlamps

It seems the GT and non-GT Mazda 3's are wired differently. The GT models have the parking lights and DRLs linked. I found someone on YouTube who got Ebay headlights for his iTouring/Sport (Halogen) Mazda 3. He claims that his LED strips are always on and that he pulled a fuse to get it to work, which doesn't make sense. Perhaps some aftermarket lights have a separate line that just taps power from somewhere else so the LEDs are constantly on.

The factory halogen headlights have the DRLs running on the same bulb as the high beam (as shown below on the right). That means that if a GT replica upgrade fixture were to use that line to power the LEDs, there would have to be some extra electronics+load resistors to mitigate the extra current whenever the high-beams are used, right? I am beginning think that having the LEDs act as DRLs isn't possible with the halogen-equipped (non-GT) models because the wiring and electronics are completely different from the GT Mazda 3.

Has anyone on this forum purchased a GT replica headlight of any kind? How do yours work?
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If you just want an LED strip to stay ON along IGN ON, the easiest way is to split power from IG1 related wires. Make sure fuse them tho.

If the LED strip portion is designed for parking light purposes only in the product you got, unless you open to swapping LEDs and driver circuits, probably brightness is not enough to use as DRL I am afraid.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
If you just want an LED strip to stay ON along IGN ON, the easiest way is to split power from IG1 related wires. Make sure fuse them tho.

If the LED strip portion is designed for parking light purposes only in the product you got, unless you open to swapping LEDs and driver circuits, probably brightness is not enough to use as DRL I am afraid.
Oh I see, so similar to how a sub amp would be wired up. Thanks! Do you know what color wire the parking light is on the factory harness? I guess I could find a diagram somewhere.

And does the factory harness join somewhere? Or would I have to tap the wire for each headlight?

And you may be right about the brightness. The way these headlights are set up, the projector is used as the DRL, so they would light up with the LED strip much like the 2017/18 models if I did this mod.
 

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I don't have exact 2016 model year wiring diagram,,, so I can not assure wire color for you. You should check continuity at actual vehicle to be safe.


First, you need to configure DRL to be OFF
I am not sure how 2016 changes,, mine is 2015, I could change DRL configuration by a sequence of light switch ON-OFF cycle.
By disabling DRL, your projector will not light up as DRL.
= Projector ON only when Low beam or high beam is assigned.

Then, for parking light part.
You would need to route IG1 split power to RH and LH headlamp. and instead of tap into parking light wire, you would need to interrupt it. ( wether cut wires, or de-pin parking light wire from headlamp connector. ) IG1 current must go directly into LED strip positive wire.
Because, if you tap IG1 current into parking light wire, then you are back feeding TNS relay output( tail and Stop)=circuit powers all parking light ( front and rear) it will result in lighting up rear parking light along with IGN on too.

Here is a super rough draft
I don't know how your product has wire configured,, so just a conceptual notes

First, open up a sleeve to see wires, find out which wire is the + wire for Parking light LED strip light.
Let's say, for example, you found orange was for parking +
( Not saying Orange is your parking wire,, just for example explanation)

Then, cut it. tape off connector end.
Route IG1 and tap into + wire for Parking light LED strip light.
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But do remember, this only makes your parking lights constantly ON while IGN is ON.

Unlike factory LED DRL/parking light function which has dual intensity ( DRL is much brighter),
your lamp will be simply just lit parking lamp all the time

does your region require DRL?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
View attachment 277441




But do remember, this only makes your parking lights constantly ON while IGN is ON.

Unlike factory LED DRL/parking light function which has dual intensity ( DRL is much brighter),
your lamp will be simply just lit parking lamp all the time

does your region require DRL?
Oh wow. Thank you so much. You're amazing. Did you make that diagram!? That really helps. And I live in Oregon (USA), and as far as I know, we don't have any DRL requirement laws.

I believe the 2015 and 2016 have the same procedure for disabling the DRLs!

So I just gotta find the wire for the parking lights at the headlight harness and cut it. Then would a fuse tap like the one pictured below work (and of course some 16-18 AWG wire to the fuse box)? Any IGN-on fuse would work, right?

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I'm glad this is being covered in detail bc I Googled the crap outta this before coming here and I'm sure many others will be wondering how this is done. :)
 

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Get 1 H11 (lo-beams) and 1 9005 (hi-beams).

Get the following so your DRLs don't flicker.

CK
 

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Oh wow. Thank you so much. You're amazing. Did you make that diagram!? That really helps. And I live in Oregon (USA), and as far as I know, we don't have any DRL requirement laws.

I believe the 2015 and 2016 have the same procedure for disabling the DRLs!

So I just gotta find the wire for the parking lights at the headlight harness and cut it. Then would a fuse tap like the one pictured below work (and of course some 16-18 AWG wire to the fuse box)? Any IGN-on fuse would work, right?

View attachment 277442

I'm glad this is being covered in detail bc I Googled the crap outta this before coming here and I'm sure many others will be wondering how this is done. :)

Yes, pretty much.

Important notes
1. When you check the parking light powring line, make sure not to feed the wrong polarity. LED driver may not accept reverse polarity. Check vehicle side connector pin layout and polarity, then determine which wire is feeding Parking light +

2.If you use fuse tap, MAKE SURE new fuse is smaller than the original fuse capacity. Or you can blow beyond component line.


It's upto you which fuse you will use, I looked up and fuse called METER 10A is one of IG1 lines.( this powers Back up light, meter,, etc,,)
Wire modification is only on Headlamp side connector cable only. Nothing on vehicle side.
Find a parking light feeding line and cut it. Tape it off to make sure no short circuit to be created.

If you use fuse tap, for example on METER 10A, then new line additional fuse MUST be smaller than original 10A
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If fuse tap is designed like this, to use original fuse and new fuse slot available,
Original fuse, you can just transfer.
For new fuse, make sure it is smaller than the original.

If newly layout parking lamp feeding line shorted, damage can be fused at "new fuse" It won't extend to original lines.
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Rest, do basic electronic work study and try at your own risk,
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Yes, pretty much.

Important notes
1. When you check the parking light powring line, make sure not to feed the wrong polarity. LED driver may not accept reverse polarity. Check vehicle side connector pin layout and polarity, then determine which wire is feeding Parking light +

2.If you use fuse tap, MAKE SURE new fuse is smaller than the original fuse capacity. Or you can blow beyond component line.


It's upto you which fuse you will use, I looked up and fuse called METER 10A is one of IG1 lines.( this powers Back up light, meter,, etc,,)
Wire modification is only on Headlamp side connector cable only. Nothing on vehicle side.
Find a parking light feeding line and cut it. Tape it off to make sure no short circuit to be created.

If you use fuse tap, for example on METER 10A, then new line additional fuse MUST be smaller than original 10A



If fuse tap is designed like this, to use original fuse and new fuse slot available,
Original fuse, you can just transfer.
For new fuse, make sure it is smaller than the original.

If newly layout parking lamp feeding line shorted, damage can be fused at "new fuse" It won't extend to original lines.


Rest, do basic electronic work study and try at your own risk,
Cool! Didn't know about the fuse thing. Yeah, I think I'm gonna use that fuse. Should I just use one fuse tap and then connect two wires going to each headlight? Or two separate fuse taps for each light?

I also contacted the manufacturer to see if they know what line is for the parking light +.

Thank you again for the write ups :)
 

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i'm interested in buying the same headlights because i hate my halogen headlights and i love the led's, where did you buy yours and how are they?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
i'm interested in buying the same headlights because i hate my halogen headlights and i love the led's, where did you buy yours and how are they?
Mine were on Ebay. The seller was DTmoto, but I'm sure the OEMassive one is the same product. They are great! But as discussed in this thread, a bit of wiring is required if you wanna have the LED strip act as a DRL. Out of the box, the projectors are the DRL and the LED strip is the parking light.
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
Alright. I finally got around to removing my front bumper and finishing this job. I found out that the color of the wire for the LED strip (positive) is brown. I followed everything that upashi said and I cut the wire on the headlight harness side and spliced in my own wire. Here, I used a butt connector with heat shrink over it. I zip tied the new link to the original loom so they won't move around too much.
20200818_201331.jpg


On the other side, I was having trouble with the butt connector, so I used terminals instead. I know there's just heat shrink sitting loose on the wire but, it wouldn't fit on there and I didn't have any larger sizes. Hopefully it holds up. I also ziptied the other side of the wire after I took the pic so it isn't at a harsh angle into the connector.

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Then I ran the wire to the fuse box, cut them to length, stripped the ends and put them both into the end of the fuse tap connector and crimped them with my crimp tool. I removed the METER 10A fuse and put that and a 5A fuse into the tap. I used a 5A for the top and the original 10A at the bottom just like the diagram upashi made. I slipped on some heatshrink and applied heat.
20200818_201341.jpg


After all that, I tested it out by putting the car into accessory mode, and voila! It works! After that, I disabled the factory DRLs using the parking light on-off x5, hazard x5, parking x5 technique. This is what it looks like. Totally worth it!

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