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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Has anybody hardwired a dashcam to their Mazda3?

I'm looking to get this done soon. I'm also a complete noob at car modding, so I have a good amount of trepidation.

Once I have it done I promise to post a how-to guide :wink:


**EDIT (7/10/15)**
I felt like I just barely managed to flub through the hardwiring process so I didn't want to write a guide on my methods, since it was entirely inelegant :p But here are a couple notes and links that can help anybody interested in hardwiring by connecting to the fusebox.

1) Get a dashcam.

2) If your dashcam runs on 5v, you're going to need a converter. Something like [ame="http://www.amazon.com/Dash-Camera-Vehicle-Hard-Wire/dp/B00MH4ZVHO/"]this[/ame].

3) You also need a fusetap, low-profile, and preferably with a 5amp fuse. Depending on your camera a 2amp or 3amp fuse may be enough. I used [ame="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00I0MWPXU"]this[/ame].

4) For the cleanest install, you're going to want to run the wire up through your headliner, down the A-pillar, behind the weather stripping of your driver side door, and into your fusebox. Check out this guide for amazing instructions on how to remove your A-pillar.

Hint: it's not easy and requires you to purchase a replacement part. Therefore when I did my install I didn't remove my A-pillar completely, but I did wiggle it just enough so that the tether thingy didn't break off, cut the head off my micro-usb cable, tied it to a string of floss, tied the other end to a paperclip, fed the paperclip through the space I created by wiggling the A-pillar, then pull the cable through using the string of floss. Yeah, pretty messy process. You can refer to my post here for some pictures of the process. Also, check out @g-hood's great guide on how he did his install. His is a much easier method BUT it does bring the cable directly over the side airbag, which is not something I would personally risk doing.

You can read through the rest of this thread for some alternatives (such as tapping directly into the auto-dimming mirror, but this only works for 12v dashcams).
 

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Take your wire, strip it, tap into a wire that's on 24/7 (or only on when your car is on if your cam won't monitor battery voltage), tap your negative into a grounding source and you're done. Hide your wires as well as you desire.
 

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Is it possible to tap into the auto-dimming/homelink mirror wires and avoid running a line to the fuse box?
Yes. the auto-dimming mirror has two wires -- accessory power and ground. The Homelink mirror has 3 wires, accessory power, ground, and full power. You can also us an electro-tap on one of the wires in the top console for full power. You'll have to look at the wiring diagrams. I did tap that wire but have forgotten which one it is.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks rvoll. Any idea on a source where I can find the wiring diagram for a 2015 Mazda3 sGT?

Also I'm guessing that if the dealership gets wind of the mod it will void my warranty. So I'd be interested in the most non-obtrusive way to tap into the wire. I heard that with something like Invisicord you could just stick it directly into the wire harness?

And lastly, seems like the dash cam I'm interested requires 5V input. I believe the accessory power for the mirror is 12V. So I would also need some type of converter?
 

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Thanks rvoll. Any idea on a source where I can find the wiring diagram for a 2015 Mazda3 sGT?

Also I'm guessing that if the dealership gets wind of the mod it will void my warranty. So I'd be interested in the most non-obtrusive way to tap into the wire. I heard that with something like Invisicord you could just stick it directly into the wire harness?

And lastly, seems like the dash cam I'm interested requires 5V input. I believe the accessory power for the mirror is 12V. So I would also need some type of converter?
Use an electro-tap and don't worry about the warranty issue unless you break something in the process. Wiring diagrams are in the service manual posted on this forum.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Oh my...I found the 2014 wiring diagram (pretty sure there will be differences with mine since the 2015 includes homelink) and I feel like a dog trying to read Hebrew. I don't even know what questions I should be asking to better understand this.

 

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I believe it is the red wire on connector 0918-901 -- the front map light, that is full power. You only need to tap that if you don't have a Homelink mirror. If yours includes Homelink, then you have a full power wire coming out of the mirror. You'll have to test the wires as I don't know the wire colors for your mirror. In general, ground is black. The other two will be full power and accessory power.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Found the 2015 servicing manual (source: reddit) as well as the wiring diagram. Strangely enough the 2015 wiring is identical to the 2014, even though only the 2015 models have the homelink option.

I made a color-coded harness diagram for both the 2014/2015 auto dimming mirrors:

- B = C/U IG1 15A fuse. Provides power when ignition is ON. Wire color is BLACK W/ BLUE STRIPE (B/L).
- D = Rear body control module (RBCM). Provides power when in car is in reverse. Wire color is BLACK W/ BROWN STRIPE (B/BR).
- F = Body ground. Wire color is BLACK (B).
- J = ROOM 15 A fuse. Provides constant power. Wire color is BLACK W/ GREEN STRIPE (B/G).

Since I'm interested in wiring my dash cam to a power source that turns on with the ignition, I will be tapping into wire B (bottom right terminal, color = black w/ blue stripe).

I'll be removing the front map light housing (screws are located inside the sunglasses holder) to have a cleaner install. I'll also be hiding my 12V -> 5V converter in there, since my dash cam requires 5V.

My Mini 0803 dash cam should be arriving later this month since it's shipping from China. Once I get it I'll draft up a how-to guide :santa:.
 

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Found the 2015 servicing manual (source: reddit) as well as the wiring diagram. Strangely enough the 2015 wiring is identical to the 2014, even though only the 2015 models have the homelink option.

I made a color-coded harness diagram for both the 2014/2015 auto dimming mirrors:

- B = C/U IG1 15A fuse. Provides power when ignition is ON. Wire color is BLACK W/ BLUE STRIPE (B/L).
- D = Rear body control module (RBCM). Provides power when in car is in reverse. Wire color is BLACK W/ BROWN STRIPE (B/BR).
- F = Body ground. Wire color is BLACK (B).
- J = ROOM 15 A fuse. Provides constant power. Wire color is BLACK W/ GREEN STRIPE (B/G).

Since I'm interested in wiring my dash cam to a power source that turns on with the ignition, I will be tapping into wire B (bottom right terminal, color = black w/ blue stripe).

I'll be removing the front map light housing (screws are located inside the sunglasses holder) to have a cleaner install. I'll also be hiding my 12V -> 5V converter in there, since my dash cam requires 5V.

My Mini 0803 dash cam should be arriving later this month since it's shipping from China. Once I get it I'll draft up a how-to guide :santa:.
This thread talked about adding dashcam power for the 2014 model but I don't know if that applies to your case.
http://mazda3revolution.com/forums/2014-mazda-3-skyactiv-audio-electronics/58969-adding-power-receptacles.html
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks g-hood I read your writeup and it looks great! I see you didn't hide the wire under the A pillar trim which makes it quite a bit easier. That's the reason why I want to tap into my auto dimming mirror, since I want to avoid removing the A pillar and I'd rather not have any wiring showing.
 

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Yea the approach i followed is just pure lazy. Don't want to mess with opening trims either. Glad it helps.:beerchug 1:
 

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I installed an auxiliary 12v outlet within the cabin fusebox then ran the cable up the A post (really easy to remove) and then installed a Mobius dash cam behind the rear view mirror. My Mazda has so many sensors it was difficult to find a dash cam that was discrete enough without it blocking my view. The Mobius doesn't have a screen but it so small you can fit it pretty much anywhere. https://mobius-actioncam.com/

Pics are a bit blurry but you get the idea...
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
I heard nothing but good things about the Mobius, if my Mini 0803 doesn't work out I'll try the Mobius next. Or I might get one anyway for a rear cam :)

Anyway I removed the front map light compartment today to take a look at the wiring underneath. Unfortunately, everything was wrapped up so tightly that removing specific wires and tapping into the one I need will be extremely messy and hard to do. I guess I'll be doing the fuse tap method instead.

g-hood - I noticed that the placement of your wire over the A pillar makes it wrap around the side curtain airbag. Isn't this a safety hazard?

Kebab Meister - Do you have instructions on how to remove the A pillar? I have heard it's easy to damage the clips and you'll have to buy new ones.
 

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I noticed that the placement of your wire over the A pillar makes it wrap around the side curtain airbag. Isn't this a safety hazard?
I realized that too and was hoping the force of deployment will pull the cord downwards without a problem since it's tucked loosely enough in the rubber door seal. For sure it's not a ideal place to route it.
 

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I heard nothing but good things about the Mobius, if my Mini 0803 doesn't work out I'll try the Mobius next. Or I might get one anyway for a rear cam :)

Anyway I removed the front map light compartment today to take a look at the wiring underneath. Unfortunately, everything was wrapped up so tightly that removing specific wires and tapping into the one I need will be extremely messy and hard to do. I guess I'll be doing the fuse tap method instead.

g-hood - I noticed that the placement of your wire over the A pillar makes it wrap around the side curtain airbag. Isn't this a safety hazard?

Kebab Meister - Do you have instructions on how to remove the A pillar? I have heard it's easy to damage the clips and you'll have to buy new ones.
Yeah, I'm really pleased with the Mobius. You can just see it from the drivers seat so it's not obscuring anything. Although dash cams with a screen makes setting up a little easier they are often too bulky especially when you're limited to available space in the case of the 2014 '3' with all of its sensors behind the rear view mirror. I did try attaching it using the supplied velcro but the plastic trim is too shiny for it to remain in place. The Mobius comes with a camera style hot shoe mount attachment so I bought a separate adapter to fit it to the trim by just drilling a hole through (trim is really easy to remove). The USB cable followsn the same route into the trim as the rear view mirror cable.

As for the A-pillar trim, I can't remember. I think I just removed the rubber seal and then pulled it away. I was conscious not to obscure the airbag so I routed it behind the airbag where the other cabling went. I 'think' I left it loose in case it did snare the airbag in which case it wouldn't restrict its deployment. I'm thinking of installing footwell illumination in the near future so will be routing the power (from the courtesy lights) down the A-pillar so I'll have another look.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Stumbled upon a great guide someone wrote on this forum regarding A pillar removal.

They did mention that the clips will be broken and will need to be replaced. I'm not fond of that option so my plan is to shimmy the cable into the A pillar trim where it meets the windshield, then pull it through at the base (see picture below, yellow line).



Due to the placement of the A pillar clips, there's no danger of the cable getting in the way of the side curtain airbag. The biggest challenge will be feeding it through the trim near the base.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Alright, it's done. I did it the way I outlined above. Too tired to post step-by-step right now but I'll have it up tomorrow.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Quick update. I stopped taking pictures halfway through the install so I might have to go back and take some additional pictures. Also as expected feeding the wire through the A pillar trim was the most challenging part of the install.

(One thing to note, I partly removed the A pillar trim (only until Clip B was out of its housing, but the tether and all the other clips were still in place) so that I would have slightly more space to work with between the trim and the windshield.)

Heh, I thought I was soooo clever. Cut a small hole in a coffee stirrer and fed my wire through it. My plan was to jam it up through the trim. Took me almost an hour of fiddling to realize this was not going to work.




Plan B: tie a string of floss to the end of a paperclip, feed the paperclip through the trim from the windshield side, grab the floss out the other side, tie it to my wire, and pull it through the trim. Success!





The rest of the install was easy and straightforward.
 
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