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Hi Guys, I am brand new here and just got a 2014 Mazda 3i. So I am looking to hardwire my radar detector into the dash for two reasons. First it looks clean, and second the power outlet is underneath the arm rest so a coiled up cord floating around my cabin is not my deal.

Do you need to have some sort of hardwire kit or are there any other alternatives?

Any help on this would be much appreciated.
 

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Your looking for a Mini automotive fuse tap.

Radio Shack or an Auto parts store can point you to the correct item. Finding a good ground will be most of the work. I don't know where all the fuses are located on the Mazda. but if there is not any open location in the fuse panel I would tap the Horn. We can usually live if the horn fuse goes out.

Find a screw that mounts to the body or frame for the ground.

If the Fuse tap does not have an in-line fuse buy one. Your radar detector most likely had a small fuse in the plug find that fuses value and that will be what you want to put in-line.

I'm thinking radio shack would be cheaper but who knows because they carry very little electronic supplies anymore. I know I paid $7.00 for a $2.00 spool or wire at Autozone once.
 

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Hi Guys, I am brand new here and just got a 2014 Mazda 3i. So I am looking to hardwire my radar detector into the dash for two reasons. First it looks clean, and second the power outlet is underneath the arm rest so a coiled up cord floating around my cabin is not my deal.

Do you need to have some sort of hardwire kit or are there any other alternatives?

Any help on this would be much appreciated.
Look here as I've given this solution before:

http://mazda3revolution.com/forums/...nics/39066-rewiring-power-outlet-console.html
 

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just find the fuse for the cig lighter and stick the positive end of the power wire for your radar on the fuse
 

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just find the fuse for the cig lighter and stick the positive end of the power wire for your radar on the fuse
The only power outlet (cig lighter) in the sGT is on all of the time and doesn't turn off with the ignition. This guy (and I) don't want it that way. Using a fuse tap that doesn't actually add a circuit is the improper way of doing it and, depending on the load, is not safe.
 

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The only power outlet (cig lighter) in the sGT is on all of the time and doesn't turn off with the ignition. This guy (and I) don't want it that way. Using a fuse tap that doesn't actually add a circuit is the improper way of doing it and, depending on the load, is not safe.

Or you can find another fuse that turns on with the car, don't be scared its only a radar, not like u r running an amp through it. Gl if u r dead set on the "proper way". Ran mine like that for 3 years now, ill let u know if it starts a fire or something lol


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Good point with the ignition switch fuse. I would still find something that's not critical to tap into. I would not want my cars life support fuse taped into. I would not tap anything non critical with a low amp fuse. Try to find something 10 amps and above. Your radar detector probably will never exceed 1 amp not even close.

Years ago Direct Electronics put out a memo for installers for customers with leases that did not want to do any permanent wire connections. The guide showed examples of fuse taps. It's not that big of a deal just hook it up to something non critical. You might find the Accessory fuse in the panel. If that is switched off with the Ignition then that would be perfect. They don't call them cigarette lighters anymore.

Putting an in-line fuse is a real safety I have seen a warn out 12V connector short out and fry the wire because it was not fused. It will stink and melt anything near it and possibly catch fire.
 

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I guess you guys didn't read my post. An add a circuit tap only costs about $5 plus a couple of cheap fuses. It doesn't spread the fuse pins, doesn't put any added load on existing circuits, and doesn't need an in-line fuse because one goes into the tap. In addition, I pointed out which fuse position to tap. Most likely a cheap tap would work, but why take any risk? In addition, you can put several devices on this kind of tap. You have a new $20-30k car and won't spend 10 bucks on doing the job right? Please.....
 

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I finally read your post. I see nothing wrong with it. My only point was that huge Manufacturing companies like Direct Electronics were ok with my method as well.

Tapping into a large fuse 10 amps and above is like an ant on an elephants back. It will not notice much at all. I'm trying not to give any unsafe info myself.

If all your info is correct then I recommend your setup.
 

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I have a Valentine One detector and used to have it professionally hardwired in any new car I bought...the tech always messed up the first time around....cut the A/C off, the detector cuts off; turn off the radio, the detector turns off, etc. Valentine One has now come out with a plug in to the OBD unit so no hardwiring is required. I have the detector mounted on my sun visor, the cable hidden in the windshield and pillar molding and then hooked into the OBD plug. Yea...no more messed up wiring!
 

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I know the early version of OBD was not meant to leave anything pluged into it. A firend learned the hard way and had to rewire his Geo Metro. Even if you leave a scanner pluged into it, it can burn up.

OBD II scanners are often left pluged in, so I think that is safe. But a Redar detector would have me A little concerned. I would rather have it wired like Rvoll.
 

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The bottom most fuse in the fuse panel near your left foot area is switched on the accessory circuit. This is an ideal spot to install an add-a-fuse for a radar detector.
 

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I bought the connector unit for the OBD directly from Valentine One website. It's called "Savvy". Hopefully, since Valentine One is a respected company, the wouldn't sell anything that would mess up my car!
 

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I guess you guys didn't read my post. An add a circuit tap only costs about $5 plus a couple of cheap fuses. It doesn't spread the fuse pins, doesn't put any added load on existing circuits, and doesn't need an in-line fuse because one goes into the tap. In addition, I pointed out which fuse position to tap. Most likely a cheap tap would work, but why take any risk? In addition, you can put several devices on this kind of tap. You have a new $20-30k car and won't spend 10 bucks on doing the job right? Please.....

I know the thing you are talking about. It isn't any safer besides that you get to put two fuses in one slot instead of one. Still puts extra power through the wires behind the slot you tapped into, it only lets you feel better because it looks less ghetto. Not bashing on they way you are doing it, just trying to make you understand what that 5 dollar thing from autozone actually does.


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Discussion Starter #16
Thanks for all the responses guys. I'm going to go ahead and try to get it all wired up this weekend for sure.
 

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I bought the connector unit for the OBD directly from Valentine One website. It's called "Savvy". Hopefully, since Valentine One is a respected company, the wouldn't sell anything that would mess up my car!
You are probably fine. I just know there are some Junk cars with crappy wiring in them. VW is one that keep skimping on electrical items. It's like they never learn. It does not mean all of them have junk electrical problems, but they are known for it.
 

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I know the thing you are talking about. It isn't any safer besides that you get to put two fuses in one slot instead of one. Still puts extra power through the wires behind the slot you tapped into, it only lets you feel better because it looks less ghetto. Not bashing on they way you are doing it, just trying to make you understand what that 5 dollar thing from autozone actually does.
While you are correct about the wires behind the slot, you still would need to put a fuse in the circuit and I hate fuses not located in/near the fuse block. Furthermore, those simple "ghetto" fuse taps are not as stable as the add-a-circuit gizmos. If, for some reason, you knock off the connector, you have a live circuit exposed. We've got a new car and I, for one, don't want any "ghetto" solutions in mine.
 

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Are there any posts that show how to run the wires down the A pillar to the fuse box. I found one but the pictures didn't show up. 2014 HB.
 

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Trying get a V1 mounted as well. For those with auto-dimming mirrors, anyone try the 'mirror wire power cord' that taps into the exposed mirror connector? So much easier than hard wiring in the past.
 
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