2004 to 2016 Mazda 3 Forum and Mazdaspeed 3 Forums banner

1 - 20 of 27 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hi guys, Does anyone here know how to do hardwiring for dash cam? Apparently the fuse box in the passenger side is all constant power and do not have any ignition power which the hardwire kit need a constant power and a ignition/switch power. I have been looking around and a lot of people recommend to use the fuse in the engine bay which need to get through the firewall. I found a rubber grommet that all the wire from the car battery but when i take off the glove box i could not find it. Is anyone know how can I access the rubber grommet or there is any better option to hardwire it?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
294 Posts
But the mirror tap only got switch power though. I wanted the parking mode which need constant power.
be a pioneer, that's what I did, nobody here (so far) has wired it the way you are looking to do it, so figure it out.

Here is a hint: the airbag light only works off the ignition switch, otherwise no power, but the cabin LED lights located next to it have constant power, ignition switch on or off. Now have fun...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
106 Posts
your car doesn't have a passenger airbag light above the mirror and cabin lights in the same general location?
I apologize, I seem to have misunderstood. The mirror itself isn't powered but yes there is the powered area above the mirror. I see that there is switched 12v, but no mention of constant 12v power.

Does anyone have access to schematics of the wiring in that location?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
294 Posts
be brave and find the wiring to the overhead LED lights next to the mirror, they are constant power, not switched. That would be a lot shorter wiring run than the side pillars, and you won't run afoul of the side pillar airbags.

The reason I didn't search further is I found what I was looking for, the switched power source, airbag light indicator connector.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
106 Posts
be brave and find the wiring to the overhead LED lights next to the mirror, they are constant power, not switched. That would be a lot shorter wiring run than the side pillars, and you won't run afoul of the side pillar airbags.

The reason I didn't search further is I found what I was looking for, the switched power source, airbag light indicator connector.
I'll dig into it on my next day off and report back. It still may be easier to just run the USB power wire from the center console due to the problems associated with hiding a DC-DC converter and whatnot up there
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
106 Posts
Um, what? Use this.
I'm well aware of dc-dc converters like you listed, my only concern is having to run the wire to a 12v source and dealing with Mazda making up some nonsense claim in the future if I have electrical issues. It's a lot harder for them to claim a usb device being plugged in would cause issues than tapping into wiring unless I run a lead directly to the battery which would entail dealing with running a wire through the firewall via grommet.

I have not run the wire yet due to the holidays and work. Sorry for the wait. In the meantime I just have it plugged into an adapter in the glovebox. I intend to run that wire underneath the center console, zip tie it up underneath the driver dash, and then run it through the driver side a-pillar and under the headliner to my dashcam.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
452 Posts
I'm well aware of dc-dc converters like you listed, my only concern is having to run the wire to a 12v source and dealing with Mazda making up some nonsense claim in the future if I have electrical issues. It's a lot harder for them to claim a usb device being plugged in would cause issues than tapping into wiring unless I run a lead directly to the battery which would entail dealing with running a wire through the firewall via grommet.

I have not run the wire yet due to the holidays and work. Sorry for the wait. In the meantime I just have it plugged into an adapter in the glovebox. I intend to run that wire underneath the center console, zip tie it up underneath the driver dash, and then run it through the driver side a-pillar and under the headliner to my dashcam.
Theres a word for your issue... paranoia. The Magnuson Moss act says you can mod your car how ever you want, and only the modified part wont be warrantied. But, youre not modifying anything, so theres no warranty violation.

It looks sooo much cleaner with a short cable, trust me.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
106 Posts
Theres a word for your issue... paranoia. The Magnuson Moss act says you can mod your car how ever you want, and only the modified part wont be warrantied. But, youre not modifying anything, so theres no warranty violation.

It looks sooo much cleaner with a short cable, trust me.
There are numerous stories from forums and friends I know who ran into dealerships fighting it because they knew the average person didn't have the money for a lawyer. My car is also a lease, I want to avoid any issues if I can but I do understand your point of view.

Why wouldn't it still be a short cable if I run it from that housing to my dash cam? The cable will be hidden everywhere but the glovebox outlet. Did you notch it out for that USB port?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
452 Posts
There are numerous stories from forums and friends I know who ran into dealerships fighting it because they knew the average person didn't have the money for a lawyer. My car is also a lease, I want to avoid any issues if I can but I do understand your point of view.

Why wouldn't it still be a short cable if I run it from that housing to my dash cam? The cable will be hidden everywhere but the glovebox outlet. Did you notch it out for that USB port?
Thats why i like doing things that are reversible, or cheap to replace the part. I did notch it and mounted the port there. Its just the left side of the camera housing, shouldnt cost much at all. The reason you dont want to run a USB cord that far, is they are sensitive to current and one thats 10' or longer wont pass enough and can get hot from the camera trying to pull the amperage it needs.

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
106 Posts
Thats why i like doing things that are reversible, or cheap to replace the part. I did notch it and mounted the port there. Its just the left side of the camera housing, shouldnt cost much at all. The reason you dont want to run a USB cord that far, is they are sensitive to current and one thats 10' or longer wont pass enough and can get hot from the camera trying to pull the amperage it needs.
The dash cam I use is quite low current compared to the earlier models that were really inefficient, you do make a great point though that's often never considered. I've had two of these dash cams plugged in with the same length wire for about 2 years and it's never been an issue. I will note due to the issue of wire length, it's important that the wire is not pinched. FWIW my second vehicle is way overdone with car audio and pulls around 10-12kw peak so wiring is familiar to me :)

I'm going to try and get it done today and post some pictures. If it becomes a bigger issue than I expect I'll do something similar to your mod.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
106 Posts
So I was wrong, there's no way the wire is going to fit anywhere in the glovebox without cutting a hole for the connector to fit through. I was hoping there'd be room around the bolts but its very tight.

I'm going to pull the mirror assembly apart next
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
106 Posts
I was able to get everything apart despite a very poorly located screw.

I do not have the homelink mirror so I need to determine where to tap into the plugs, which are very small with tiny wires. Pulling another 500-1000ma on them is a bit concerning to me. Not sure if I even want to move forward at this point.

I'm going to put it all back together and think about my options
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
294 Posts
my dash cam has been charging normally/operating normally using the small tab insert into the passenger airbag light indicator connector, I can (if there were something weird happening) remove the wiring and since I have cut nothing OEM nor relocated anything OEM make the installation disappear (like I will when I return the lease).

But since I have had zero issues, I don't see why you are that worried about tapping where I did, if you want to go more "OEM", you can run a wire to where they tap for the Homelink mirror (I posted the PDF instructions somewhere, a Mazda tech would tap in the drivers side pillar for that installation).

I stand behind the instructions in the other How To thread, because what I did worked with zero issues and is pretty simple, and reversible, you just need to buy the right tap kit off Amazon.

Probably the absolute safest option would involve disconnecting the battery, running a fused power wire directly from the battery to a relay, and using the relay to power the camera off the passenger bag light wire or whatever switchable source you want -- should you want it on constantly, use the LED cabin light wire (the switching wire that powers a relay draws little current)

But it is overkill for this application, imho, unless my car starts melting down next summer (ha ha)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
452 Posts
I was able to get everything apart despite a very poorly located screw.

I do not have the homelink mirror so I need to determine where to tap into the plugs, which are very small with tiny wires. Pulling another 500-1000ma on them is a bit concerning to me. Not sure if I even want to move forward at this point.

I'm going to put it all back together and think about my options
I ran a single wire to the fuse box and then used one of the screws for the overhead console for the ground.
 
1 - 20 of 27 Posts
Top