[Michael Bolt-on]

Anyone know the diameter and thread pitch on the nuts used with these? I’m looking into mil-spec distorted thread locking nuts to replace them with. Tired of these coming loose and clunking/popping on the slightest suspension compression on either side.

 

[arathol]

Thats odd. Mine came with locking nuts. So far they have not moved since I installed them over a year ago.
The GRP threads should be the same as the OEM part. I think its 10x1.25 but I can't find my metric thread sizer.

 

[Michael Bolt-on]

Thanks, man. Should’ve messaged you directly haha. No idea why mine keep banging on either side during compression. Bar is properly positioned and brackets are tight. Pretty annoyed and just want to move on with life.

 

[arathol]

Are you using the 3" spacer? The 6" spacer was too long for my car. The top of the link was hitting the floor pan.

 

[Michael Bolt-on]

Had to use the shortest spacer, too. Car is lowered on RB springs.

 

[arathol]

I had an issue at first with the spacer lock nuts. I checked and double checked and could not find the source of a tapping noise from the rear bar. Turns out that one lock nut was loose, but it seemed tight when the car was on the ground. When I jacked up the car to take a better look and got the wheel off the ground, the lower nut was loose enough so that the link was making noises. Grab onto the spacer and shake it hard. If something is loose you should be able to tell.
You might want to check the links for signs of scuffing or other minor impacts. They are slightly larger then OEM and might be hitting something on compression. I have these on the front too, and the end of the bolt was hitting part of the frame just a bit on full compression. I reversed the link to the other side and the noise went away.
When the car is on the ground, is the rear bar parallel to the chassis?

 

[Michael Bolt-on]

You have been amazingly helpful - thank you. I’ll jack it up.

 

[CerealKiller]

arathol... that suspension setup is exactly what I want for my new ride. I'm jealous.
CK

 

[Midnightsky228]

my endlinks did this too, i eventually just tightened them a little extra and haven't heard them since

 

[Michael Bolt-on]

The specs are indeed m10x1.5. I bought some milspec distorted thread self-locking nuts. Will report back in about a week after I install them.

Thanks for all the input so far, guys.

 

[iwasforcedtosignup]

my endlinks did this too, i eventually just tightened them a little extra and haven't heard them since

After installing my GRP endlinks this weekend had to tighten them twice and now they don't clunk. My endlinks did come with locking nuts.

 

[CerealKiller]

It took me a while to get all of my sway bar end links properly tightened too. I only installed them in the rear and left the OEM end links up front. Replacing those will be my next project.

As a warning to others... make sure you tighten the nuts on these properly before driving on them. I drove around on mine for a couple of weeks, while I tried to get things corrected and because of that, the thread on both bolts got smashed and the nuts would no longer tighten properly. I had to replace the whole thing with one of the extra end links I had for the front.

Also, in order to properly tighten these, you will need a special thin 15mm wrench. You need it to hold the inner flat piece, which holds the ball joint in place so you can tighten the nut.

You will also need a standard 17mm and 19mm wrench. I would recommend getting a ratcheting 17mm combination wrench, to make tightening the bolt easier. Having to remove the 17mm wrench each time to reposition it, while still holding the thin 15mm wrench to keep the ball join in place, can get problematic and frustrating.

Here is a link for the thin wrench set that I purchased. Grip 9 pc Thin Wrench Set
CK