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Really? The damage in the above picture seems like its from a nut that was not installed correctly. Thats not a part issue, thats an installation issue....As I have said before, you need to pay close attention to which nut goes on which end on these....
 

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*The Electrician*
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I know how to install end links thank you very much
Nobody is immune to making mistakes, not even Formula 1 mechanics. Im not saying you made a mistake, but instead of snapping at one of the most helpful individuals on this forum, maybe just take a step back and realize they are only trying to help.
 

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Upgraded dampers, stiffer springs and an upgraded RSB will help with that.

My car sits very low and is very planted to the ground. I can take turns at crazy speeds with almost no body roll or movement at all.

I have a front strut tower bar, H&R lowering springs, Koni FSD dampers, adjustable upgraded end links, an H-Brace from Megan Racing and a Progress rear sway bar. The Continental Extreme Contact tires also helped with a more stable/planted ride. They grip much better than the stock tires.
CK
Are you still using the Hardrace end links and how do you like them?
 

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Discussion Starter #147
Are you still using the Hardrace end links and how do you like them?
Yes, still using the HardRace end links. They are staying tight and working like they are supposed to. No complaints.
CK
 

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Moog ...
273840
 

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Rubber side down
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are the Moog units shorter than the factory end links? The end links in question are adjustable so that they can be shortened to compensate for a lower ride height. I am sure the Moog units are solid, but if they are not adjustable or at least shorter than the factory end links then it won't do what they need to do on a lowered car.
 

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Moog end links measure 15cm like OEM and GRP at minimum size. For shorter sizes you need to buy Hardrace or Whiteline
 

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Yes, still using the HardRace end links. They are staying tight and working like they are supposed to. No complaints.
CK
Good to know. Thanks.

Do you have the part #s handy? Their site doesn't show anything for us.
 

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Discussion Starter #152

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I regret not having read through this entire thread before purchasing GRP adjustable end links. I also stripped two of the end links, while attempting to torque the nuts to 30 ft.lb. After those two failures, I resorted to dispensing with the torque wrench and tightening the rest of the nuts by feel until they were "gutentight". Not very confidence-inspiring, TBH.
I've been wrenching cars for over 40 years, and I've never seen such poor quality metal parts. These must be made of the softest steel known to man, and if indeed the threads aren't common among all the links then that's just a case of pi$$-poor design IMO. I'll grudgingly replace all of the end links with the stock parts temporarily, and contact the supplier to obtain replacements, but what I'd really like is for him to replace all of the end links with something made of harder steel, like the shiny ones Cereal Killer described (mine are all of the black variety). After all, if trying to tighten a nylon locking nut to 30 ft. lb. (even if it IS using mismatched threads) can strip the threads on these links, what chance do they have of surviving long-term under dynamic loads?
 

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Wow....
I've had these on my car for three years now. The only issue so far was one broke when I hit a pot hole last year. Never had any issue with the threads stripping on any of them. I did see the thread differences on the second pair when the link broke though. Still, they installed fine, no threads stripped and they are still holding up.
Never heard of any black colored parts, that must be something new. Looks like quality might be going down hill....
 

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Here are photos of the stripped front drop links. The two worst ends were the ones I tried to tighten with a torque wrench. The worst one was a challenge to remove, and doubtless got damaged further in the process. One of the other two ends has also started to strip, and that was hand tightened with a ratcheting box wrench. I couldn't have put more than 20 ft.lb. on it. There weren't any mismatched threads, by the way. I'm going to remove the rear drop links next. What a waste of time and effort.

The stock links accepted 40 ft.lb. with ease, by comparison.


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I finally got around to swapping out the rear drop links. There's evidence of threads stripping on all four end links. I'm going to contact the supplier for some kind of assistance to rectify the situation. This is obviously unacceptable quality.


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Follow-up:
To their credit, GRP shipped me eight (8) new ball joints -- four (4) each with LH- and RH-threads on the turnbuckle ends -- and I only paid the shipping cost. After several emails back-and-forth regarding installation torque, steel hardness, lack of installation instructions, etc., GRP maintains that the nuts should be torqued to 20 NM, because that is how they are TUV certified in Germany. (I'm paraphrasing here, but that is their position).

I noticed that the new parts have fine threads, whereas the original parts have coarse threads (see attached photo). Since more threads are engaged with the nut, these should be able to withstand higher torque (all else being equal). If I choose to install these, and decide to exceed 20NM torque, I presume that I'd be doing so at my own risk.

I'm undecided about installing these, since the factory parts are holding up fine so far. I may just list them for sale in the classifieds.

IMG_20200227_191319035.jpg
 
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