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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm switching back to the GRP adjustable end links soon and I want to make sure they are sized and installed perfectly this time. I've had enough fun working on my end links.. thank you very much...

I'm lowered on H&R springs 28821-1... 30mm (1.18") drop in front and 45mm (1.77") drop in the rear.

Compared to the OEM end link length, how much shorter should I make the adjustable end links?

I normally size and fit them during the installation. I lengthen the end link until it is positioned straight up and down and not pulling or pushing on the RSB. This is done while the wheels are off the ground though. Do I need to make any adjustments to this for when the car settles back on the ground?
CK
 

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The easiest way to get them positioned correctly is with the car on ramps. The suspension needs to be loaded and at the normal ride height to get it right. Set the bar by positioning the end so its parallel to the chassis (the connection should be 90°). Adjust the length of the links so that the ends go through the holes without effort and tighten it all up. Do it one side at a time. Once you get the first side in the other side should just fall into place. You shouldn't have to bend or twist the end of the bar to get the links attached.

 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks arathol. I'll pick up some low profile ramps and get to work this weekend.

The HardRace end links didn't last too long. One of the welds on the rear passenger end link failed while I was taking a sloping right hand turn...
CK
 

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*The Electrician*
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No issues with my GRP endlinks yet, they have been solid. When mine were installed we also used ramps. Im not lowered but we used the smallest middle section of the 3 choices offered in the GRP endlink kit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Cool. They are pretty strong.

I had to use the shortest middle piece and leave some thread exposed to line things up properly last time. Longest ones for the front.

I just need to do it with the suspension supporting the car's weight.

I will take pics of the finished product.
CK
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Does anyone know what size bolts come with these?

Two of the bolts are just spinning in place..same end link. The other ones tightened and installed fine, but these two got stuck a little short of fully tight and now won't move.

Gonna weld a good bolt of the same size tight to the bad bolt and wrench both off together.
Thx.
CK
 

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There aren't any bolts on the GRP parts.
Did you use the spacers that came with them?
There are flats on the base so you can use a thin wrench (14mm I think) to hold the stud in place.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
The nut? The part you tighten.

M10 17mm..inner flat is 16mm...the first set I got had inner flats that were 15mm though. The nut that came with them were the same.

I took the spacer out and didn't use it.
CK
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I had the inner flat secured with a GRIP thin wrench. The nut just stopped tightening at one point and instead started spinning freely...it wouldn't tighten or loosen. The top nut and bottom one are the same.

The other 3 endlinks tightened just fine though.

Luckily I have some extra endlinks and parts..just got a get these things off.
CK
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
Power tools are your friend... destroyed the endlink but got the nuts off in the end.

Moog's staying on. Far better product in my experience... much easier to work with too.
CK
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I contacted GRP through ebay and asked them to send me a replacement for the damaged endlink.

I also sent a pic of my previous endlink that had snapped and I also brought up something that is really bugging me. Why are the threads you tighten the nut over so malleable? They deform far easier than I would expect from a product like this. Especially considering how critical it is to keeping things tight and working properly.
CK
 

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They shouldn't be deforming. I have removed mine a couple times with no issues. You sure you are not over tightening them? Its possible that there is something wrong with the threads inside the nuts too. I didn't use the supplied nuts but rather replaced them with nylocks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I think it's the nuts. I will get some nylocks and maybe try again...if they send me a replacement endlink or two. I have bought like 5 sets from them by now...you'd think they would hook it up.

I did find this though... Another option for rear adjustable endlinks. They have front endlinks too. It's a little expensive, but they look well made.

Super Pro Rear Adjustable End Links
Super Pro Front Adjustable End Links
CK
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
[ame]https://www.amazon.com/Bolt-Base-Stainless-Insert-Nylock/dp/B00B3RIUD8/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=m10%2B17mm%2Bnylock%2Bnut&qid=1552934756&s=industrial&sr=1-2&th=1[/ame]

Will these work or would you recommend something different?
CK
 

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I think it's the nuts. I will get some nylocks and maybe try again...if they send me a replacement endlink or two. I have bought like 5 sets from them by now...you'd think they would hook it up.

I did find this though... Another option for rear adjustable endlinks. They have front endlinks too. It's a little expensive, but they look well made.

Super Pro Rear Adjustable End Links
Super Pro Front Adjustable End Links
CK
Same parts, more expensive, different color....

Just go down to the hardware store and get a couple, anything with the right thread will work, they are maybe 80 cents apiece...
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
They got back to me already. They will replace the two damaged ends from the one endlink.

I'm not in any hurry to install them though. The Moog's work just fine for now.
CK
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
WooHoo! These bitches are installed and working great.

Lessons learned...Use a set of ramps so the suspension is under load.

Buy new m10 nuts with nylock

Install and size (loosen the nut and turn the middle piece) the endlink so the threads slide through without having to be forced.

Tighten the 2 nuts on the middle piece really well with a 19mm and 17mm wrench.

Use a thin wrench for the inner flat..15mm or 16mm depending on which ball joint you get.

Jack the car up after gently tightening the nuts on the end links..don't try to tighten them all the way while the wheels are supporting things. Once jacked up...get the flats secured and get the nuts really tight this time.
CK
 

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One more thing - drive it a bit, then check it again. You may need some locktite on the endlink adjustment threads.
 

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WooHoo! These bitches are installed and working great.

Lessons learned...Use a set of ramps so the suspension is under load.

Buy new m10 nuts with nylock

Install and size (loosen the nut and turn the middle piece) the endlink so the threads slide through without having to be forced.

Tighten the 2 nuts on the middle piece really well with a 19mm and 17mm wrench.

Use a thin wrench for the inner flat..15mm or 16mm depending on which ball joint you get.

Jack the car up after gently tightening the nuts on the end links..don't try to tighten them all the way while the wheels are supporting things. Once jacked up...get the flats secured and get the nuts really tight this time.
CK
I too learned that lesson. Load suspension haha.
Can you point me to the links? Google isn’t cooperating or I’m been dumb
 
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