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Please note: This is the process that I use. Take into accout many factors and preferences come in to play, so my results wont necessarily be your results. Along with good prep and keeping your paint area as clean and dust free as possible, other factors such as temperature and humidity level play a huge factor. I by no means claim any expertise on the subject, but from my own personal experiences over the years have learned that paint can be very finicky with these factors. At that, please just remember, patience and prep go a LONG LONG WAY. this is not a project you should rush into or expect to be done with quickly. It took me about 8 hours to do all 4 wheels. Last note, remember, this is HOW I DID MY WHEELS....i by no means think my process is best, its just my own experience that i was asked to share. Your results may vary based on your location and other factors above. Last but not least excuse typo's and all that....and sorry no pics, but it is a long and dirty process...the last thing i had on my mind was step by step pics....(i admire those of you who have the patience to do that) The next time i do a project like that i will take more pics. OK HERE WE GO!!!!!
List of items i used for my wheel project:
With wheels off the car & cleaned of any debris, used Steelwool NOT sandpaper. 00,000,0000 grade wools as they dont cause gouges, they just remove a light layer to provide a good surface. next i wiped down with regular rubbing alcohol and very clean cloth....follow up with a tack cloth.
1B.
Masking the wheels off took the longest. used the clear tape to the diameter of the rim, sticky side out towards tires. once on, cut slits ever few inches...had my stack of newspaper and slowly started around the tires.pushing each slit down on to the paper but leaving the lowest point of it(where tire meets rim) the tape actually sticks very well to rubber. stilts were necessary to conform the tires around the diameter) did the same on the inners side of the rim, as i painted the insides of each wheel too.
1c.
I created a small sealed off area in my garage(basically a makeshift paint booth. take the clear painters plastic and create a small room/area that allows you space to place rim on a table or raised up off the ground One side i overlapped to create at "flap door" . On one side of the makeshift booth i also place a box fan (fan face on the other side so that it acts as an exhaust. Cut out an area of the plastic drape and tape it to the other side of the fan to create a seal. i had it on for a while to let it suck out any floating particulates. Again, this is make shift, but find having an exahaust cuts down on "paint dust" and fumes.
***Make sure the spot you choose is well lit or you can run a shop light overhead or wall mounted.
2.
Then got a coat of adhesion promoter(Bulldog is my brand of choice). followed with two primer and wet sands(alternating) 800 or higher grit depending on the primer's adhesion and finish. I go for the smoothest base coat of primer possible.
3.
I then followed with color coats....3 very fine coats with drying time in between to allow me to do any followup wet sanding if needed (here you'd go with any 1000grit or higher wet/dry sand paper...and VERY LIGHT WITH IT...the goal is to just smooth things further. after all was dry and well tack clothed...
4.
I did the final paint coat...allowed 10 minutes to flash dry, followed by clear coats. I did 2 medium coats(here you must be very careful to not over apply as you DON'T want any drips....or you'll have to go back to wet sanding and reapplication. Basically anytime you find the finish not to be exact,Wait till coating is dry to touch, you can then lightly wet sand. If you aren't used to paint projects or wet sanding, this will be a harder project. Again the goal with wet sanding is basically to remove blemishes, nubs, etc. You aren't trying to sand through the finish, the goal is blending. I'm pretty fussy and highly detailed...so extra steps always happen, but the end result is a near perfect finish. AS it is a DIY setup, acheiving the same level of professionals with a sealed paint room is near impossible...but with care, good prep and aslo space setup and prep, you can get a high level finish
Last note: in the past when i've had rims that werent mounted on tires, i actually baked the finish in my oven at 200-250 degrees. yes its sounds wacky, however the heat is actualy benefical to helping the paint cure and provide a slightly harder and more durable finish. It also helps many clear coat really acheive a high level shine. I was unable to do this on these as i wasnt about to pay to have tires removed and then put back on.
ORIGINAL POSTING
Well after much self talk and chatter in my head....LOL, yea i generally have to convince myself of my own ideas.....i took all day saturday to do the wheeels on my speed. All day process, left off the entire day sunday too. Here are a few shots of them on the car. I love the new look....now, she JUST needs to be lowered some!
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I will be taking more pics tomorrow at a better spot for angles...but also hoping that some pics come out of the Local Meet we had in Sacramento. We had i think 14 show up last night....pure awesome mazdamania
List of items i used for my wheel project:
- 3 packages of steel wool (00,000, & 0000 grades - bought at walmart) Not sure if all steel wool comes in these grades, but the goal here is to scuff the factory wheel finish NOT to remove it completely. 00 is a medium grit....adding 0's to the number indicates even finer grain)
prep work takes most of the time.....
Variety package of Wet/Dry Automotive grade Sand paper. 800 Grit, 1000 grit, 1200 grit
plain rubbing alcohol - used to clean after each sanding, and between coating if needed.
clear packaging tape, blue painter's tape, and plain tan tape - all used for the masking of the wheels
Large stack of newspaper
4 cans of primer - i only used 2
8 cans each of Duplicolor High Performance wheel paint - Graphite & clear coat between all wheels i used 5 of each.
With wheels off the car & cleaned of any debris, used Steelwool NOT sandpaper. 00,000,0000 grade wools as they dont cause gouges, they just remove a light layer to provide a good surface. next i wiped down with regular rubbing alcohol and very clean cloth....follow up with a tack cloth.
1B.
Masking the wheels off took the longest. used the clear tape to the diameter of the rim, sticky side out towards tires. once on, cut slits ever few inches...had my stack of newspaper and slowly started around the tires.pushing each slit down on to the paper but leaving the lowest point of it(where tire meets rim) the tape actually sticks very well to rubber. stilts were necessary to conform the tires around the diameter) did the same on the inners side of the rim, as i painted the insides of each wheel too.
1c.
I created a small sealed off area in my garage(basically a makeshift paint booth. take the clear painters plastic and create a small room/area that allows you space to place rim on a table or raised up off the ground One side i overlapped to create at "flap door" . On one side of the makeshift booth i also place a box fan (fan face on the other side so that it acts as an exhaust. Cut out an area of the plastic drape and tape it to the other side of the fan to create a seal. i had it on for a while to let it suck out any floating particulates. Again, this is make shift, but find having an exahaust cuts down on "paint dust" and fumes.
***Make sure the spot you choose is well lit or you can run a shop light overhead or wall mounted.
2.
Then got a coat of adhesion promoter(Bulldog is my brand of choice). followed with two primer and wet sands(alternating) 800 or higher grit depending on the primer's adhesion and finish. I go for the smoothest base coat of primer possible.
3.
I then followed with color coats....3 very fine coats with drying time in between to allow me to do any followup wet sanding if needed (here you'd go with any 1000grit or higher wet/dry sand paper...and VERY LIGHT WITH IT...the goal is to just smooth things further. after all was dry and well tack clothed...
4.
I did the final paint coat...allowed 10 minutes to flash dry, followed by clear coats. I did 2 medium coats(here you must be very careful to not over apply as you DON'T want any drips....or you'll have to go back to wet sanding and reapplication. Basically anytime you find the finish not to be exact,Wait till coating is dry to touch, you can then lightly wet sand. If you aren't used to paint projects or wet sanding, this will be a harder project. Again the goal with wet sanding is basically to remove blemishes, nubs, etc. You aren't trying to sand through the finish, the goal is blending. I'm pretty fussy and highly detailed...so extra steps always happen, but the end result is a near perfect finish. AS it is a DIY setup, acheiving the same level of professionals with a sealed paint room is near impossible...but with care, good prep and aslo space setup and prep, you can get a high level finish
Last note: in the past when i've had rims that werent mounted on tires, i actually baked the finish in my oven at 200-250 degrees. yes its sounds wacky, however the heat is actualy benefical to helping the paint cure and provide a slightly harder and more durable finish. It also helps many clear coat really acheive a high level shine. I was unable to do this on these as i wasnt about to pay to have tires removed and then put back on.
ORIGINAL POSTING
Well after much self talk and chatter in my head....LOL, yea i generally have to convince myself of my own ideas.....i took all day saturday to do the wheeels on my speed. All day process, left off the entire day sunday too. Here are a few shots of them on the car. I love the new look....now, she JUST needs to be lowered some!
I will be taking more pics tomorrow at a better spot for angles...but also hoping that some pics come out of the Local Meet we had in Sacramento. We had i think 14 show up last night....pure awesome mazdamania
