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I have a 2016 Mazda 3 hatchback (2.0 L automatic). It’s currently at around 1,300 miles.

The mechanic that I go to recommends that I do my first oil change within the first 1,000-1,500 miles to help with the engine break-in. He also mentioned that there will be metal particles in the oil within the first 1,000 or so miles and you need to get them out. I called up the dealership and they told me that they recommend 7.5k miles or 6 months for the first oil change and they’ll turn you down for an oil change if you try to get it done as soon as 1,500 miles. They also said that when you buy the car new, the engine oil has some additives in it that help with the break-in. The owner’s manual actually specifies 7.5k miles for its maintenance schedule.

When should I get my first oil change (and when did you guys it done)? And why do my mechanic and the dealership have differing opinions on when to get the first oil change?

Also, will it void my warranty if I get an oil change at 1,500 miles?
 

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Great question. My old Fiat Abarth had additives also, with the same suggestion not to do a break-in oil change.

I had the same question about my new 3, especially since the dealer threw in two free oil changes which must be used within 12 months. But I only drive about 8,000 miles a year, so I was hoping to do one at 1,000 miles for that reason, also.
 

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Dealership technicians are not always up to the latest information, though all mean well and try and do their best. Perhaps he was simply mistaken and not willing for his dealership to pay for this change.

With another brand (a top end sports car), I was also told a few years ago that the cars came with break in oil and not to remove it until specified mileage per the manual. However, when doing more digging, personally talk with the Assembly Plant Manager and he said that they no longer use break in oil, that the "factory fill" Mobil 1 oil is the same as what the dealer puts in at every oil change.

I too believe that as a new engine wears in, tiny particles of metal are created (this is how the piston rings properly seat against the cyclinder walls, the crank bearings and the crankshaft, etc). So while my dealership would not pay for an extra oil change early on in my car's life, I was happy to pay for it myself, and once I said that, there was no more talk of break in oil.

I will do a lot more digging on this myself before I accept as automatic truth a dealership tech telling me a Mazda comes with special break in oil -- for most brands (guessing around 75+ %), no longer use a break in oil. And if I surprisingly learn that Mazda does use a break in oil, I will still have it (and oil filter) removed at 1,000 miles, and pay for Mazda break-in oil to be re-installed.
 

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Mazda does not use any special break in oil. The factory service interval is every 7500 miles from new on the fixed maintenance schedule, 7500 - 10000 on the flexible schedule.
 

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I did my first oil change at 18 k km. Now i have 80k km + so dont worry to much. I think that not so many people change their oil in new car at 1000 km. Just you do regulary oil chaing when you have to and thats it :)
Have a nice day.
 

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for the cost of oil and filter, i got my first change at 4000k's, then next at the first recommended 10000k's

each to their own........
 

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Changed mine at 2,000 miles, which was more than likely not necessary. Now I follow the 5,000 mile fixed interval since I primarily do city driving under hot and humid conditions.
 

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When the idiot light comes on I bring it in. Same with when I get fuel. Mazda engineers know more than me so I follow the owners manual.
 

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Mazda factory oil high high moly in it. Many dealers use bulk oil that is not mazda and thus does not have high moly.

My point being that the factory oil is probably better than anthing you will get after so I'd keep it as long as you can. If you are really that worried, change the filter only.

But as the owner manual states, there is a break in period suggested on how you drive, but nothing about an early oil change.

Fyi.. I have 50k on mine and did 5k oil changes the first 2, then switched to 10k running extended mobil 1.
 

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Mazda factory oil high high moly in it. Many dealers use bulk oil that is not mazda and thus does not have high moly.

My point being that the factory oil is probably better than anthing you will get after so I'd keep it as long as you can. If you are really that worried, change the filter only.
Very good points da_jokker! Here is a link that supports what you posted, that Mazda oil is special, even better than many of the excellent oils many of us have used for years:

New 0W-20 Synthetic Motor Oil from Mazda | CleanMPG

Keeping them in mind, as I will be paying extra for the 1,000 oil/filter change anyway, I will specify and insure they use only their Mazda oil, e.g., Idemitsu’s “Genuine Mazda 0W-20 GF-5 with Moly - Synthetic Engine Oil” – ILSAC GF-5 certified and sold in 1 qt. containers for $7.95 at a Mazda dealership (OR, if Mazda has a new, upgraded spec for their oil, will buy that from the dealership).

Have driven over 2,000,000 miles, on over 50 vehicles, seven which went over 150K, and a bunch of motorcross bikes, and never once had a motor go south on me. On each one of them, I had the oil/filter changed (or did it myself) at no more than 1,000 miles (and at 250 miles on the racing bikes).

Sure my system is extra cost to me; and I am just fine with that.
 

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I would agree with you road trip. Ironically the great oil debate is one of the hottest topics on car forums. Synthetic or not synthetic. Performance filters or OEM filters.

When you read long enough you will always find that in the end, I unless you have some extreme strange engine conditions, none of that matters.

Many people don't keep their cars in long enough that is even an issue. For people like you that may drive them to the wheels fall off, find that they never have engine failure.

Hell I had a motorcycle when I was young, that I never changed the oil in. When I finally wised up and drained it it was like a thick syrup. Bike continuing to run and never gave me any issues for the next few years that I owned it until I sold it.

The reality is that with today's engines, metals, and oil advancements... your chances of mechanical failure lie elsewhere than engine lubrication.

I run full synthetic extended simply because I want to go 10000 miles between oil changes. I'm actually going to do an oil change next weekend and send a sample out to black labs that will hopefully back up my preaching.
 

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I look forward to your motor analysis results. Hopefully you will post here. Have seen for many who have done that, that the lab often says to the owner something like "you can even extend your motor life next time by an additional X,000 miles."

I know I am "over the top" on my oil change craziness after the initial one, and am not thinking others should be as fanatical as I am, though if just one person who reads this thread chooses to add a 1,000 mile oil/filter change to their new car, I will be a happy camper. Those tiny metal wear-in particles, some too small to be caught by the oil filter, need in my biased opinion to be removed way before the manufacturer's initial oil change recommendation.
 

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Oil change at 5000 mi

I just did my first oil change at 5000 miles. I had a sample analized.

The sample contained higher than normal amounts of iron and copper, which they said was due to the normal wear-in process.

34ppm iron
56ppm copper

I suppose if you change the oil sooner you would remove these particles sooner.

The main reason I changed my oil was to be sure of which oil was in the engine.

Good luck
 

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I just did my first oil change at 5000 miles. I had a sample analized.

The sample contained higher than normal amounts of iron and copper, which they said was due to the normal wear-in process.

34ppm iron
56ppm copper

I suppose if you change the oil sooner you would remove these particles sooner.
Thanks Coopspeed for getting your oil sampled at 5,000 miles and sharing the results. While a couple of posts above, a couple of posts took objection to my suggesting that there are positive reasons for getting one's oil changed early (I noted above that at 1,000 miles is when I do it on all my new vehicles), the fact that your sample showed higher than normal amounts of iron and copper at 5,000 miles due to normal wear in, confirms for me, AND MAYBE JUST ME, that I will again first change my oil and filter on my new Mazda 3 at 1,000 miles -- for I do not want higher than normal levels of iron and copper particles in my oil, running around in and between moving engine parts, between 1,000 and 5,000 miles.

My new Mazda 3 will cost me around $26,500 and the roughly $75-100 for one extra oil /filter change, is personally one extra investment I am willing to make.

And as always, the great thing in this country is that we each get to choose regarding all such things....
 

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Think all auto manufacturers are going with normal oil change intervals, even from the beginning. Your oil filter is there to protect you from particles left behind. The particles being there (if any) is maybe a good reason to do a drain-from-the-sump oil change for the 1st one. After that, use of an oil extractor should be fine. However, your oil filter would protect you irregardless.

I'm very surprised at Mazda's very conservative oil change intervals. Mercedes Benz has gone to 15k intervals on its gas engines, and our Jetta TDI (that's turbo diesel) had 10k intervals. VW says they've never had an engine failure due to oil problems.

I fully expect to go all the way to 7,500 miles and may actually stretch that to 10k after the warranty is off. I'll be looking at the oil color though.

Use synthetic oil though, and no heavier that the 0w20 recommended. I've even gone to 0w20 in my Tacoma which says 5w30 right on the oil cap. Most wear occurs on engine startup. The lighter oil gets to all parts of the engine very much quicker, particularly in colder temps.

Ralph
 

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I just did my first oil change at 5000 miles. I had a sample analized.

The sample contained higher than normal amounts of iron and copper, which they said was due to the normal wear-in process.

34ppm iron
56ppm copper

I suppose if you change the oil sooner you would remove these particles sooner.

The main reason I changed my oil was to be sure of which oil was in the engine.

Good luck
How do you know what is normal until your next sample is analysed?
 
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