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Aspiring Mad Scientist
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1,716 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
As I've been searching high and low for spacers and studs to fit my 18x10 wheels, I found that most manufacturers and parts websites have been worth poppycock for finding spacer fitments that actually work on the 3. So, I am starting this thread so we can have a database of sorts on spacers and studs that, through real-life experimentation (plus a little educated guessing), will fit the Mazda3.

First off, stock stud specs, for reference for anyone wanting to find compatible parts:

Thread Size: M12X1.50
Knurl Diameter (mm): 12.9-13mm
Length (mm): 44.80mm
Shoulder Length (mm): 14.33mm

Spacer critical specs, for anyone wanting to find compatible parts:
Bolt pattern: 5x114.3
Hub diameter: 67.1mm

Older knowledge: ARP's Late-model GM studs are known to work on the 3, but they are 63.5mm long. So for you folk looking for extended studs, ARP #100-7708 is one option to get. Another option is ARP #100-7719, which is a Miata extended stud and is 69.9mm long (but the last 9mm or so is unthreaded).

Things I've discovered: browsing OEM stud specs, the Mazda3 shares stud knurl size with other Mazdas (as it should) but it also outright shares studs with the rear axle of the Hyundai Sonata/Kia Optima. Takeaway message from that is that anything from the Mazda catalog should work, and anything for the rear axle of the Sonata/Optima should be a perfect fit.

Knowing that, any spacer + stud combo for any Mazda or for the Sonata/Optima should fit on our cars. For this list though I wish to keep it only to reputable brands with all the safety certs and qualifications. I'm only going to include hack fitments that have been tested to work or there's just no way it won't work (most inter-Mazda fitments). Note that the safety of hack fitments is not guaranteed -- I can't tell you for sure if Eibach has a reason for not offering the NC Miata 20mm and 30mm spacers for the Mazda3. I can address only 1) whether the spacer kit bolts on and 2) whether the included studs (if they come with them) fit. User discretion, basically.


So moving onwards then, the catalog browsing begins. Please help me fill it out in order to assist other members in selecting quality parts. :)

H&R:

10656710 -- 5mm hubcentric w/ extended studs
30656710 -- 15mm hubcentric w/ extended studs
4065671 -- 20mm hubcentric adapter w/ pressed-in studs
5065671 -- 25mm hubcentric adapter w/ pressed-in studs

Eibach:

90.5.05.031.1 -- 5mm hubcentric w/ extended studs
90.6.10.005.1 -- 10mm hubcentric w/ extended studs (currently on my car)
90.6.15.027.1 -- 15mm hubcentric w/ extended studs
90.4.15.002.1 -- 15mm hubcentric adapter w/ pressed-in studs
90.4.20.005.1 -- 20mm hubcentric adapter w/ pressed-in studs
90.4.25.016.1 -- 25mm hubcentric adapter w/ pressed-in studs

90.6.20.028.1 -- NC Miata hack fitment -- 20mm hubcentric w/ extended studs
 

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Aspiring Mad Scientist
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1,716 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
@mazdaspeedmyk you should tag a warning on the Ichibas... I have read reports of studs stripping and the wheel adapters cracking through. That's why I didn't include them in the OP.
 

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Aspiring Mad Scientist
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1,716 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Removed from list: H&R 40656717, Sonata hack fitment 20mm. The spacer itself fits properly, but the included studs will not fit: the knurl on the studs is far too large to fit inside the Mazda3 hub. Do not purchase.

I have the other 20mm hack fitment on order now: Eibach 90.6.20.028.1 for the NC MX-5, which should honestly work (my current spacer kit is cross-listed for the NC and RX-8 ).
 

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Not sure if this is where to post this question, but I've searched and cannot find a definitive answer. I have Ichiba 5mm hubcentric spacers for the front to go with my '13 ms3 wheels (on '13 mz3), but the hub only protrudes about 3mm from what I've read. The angled recess on the back of the wheel won't have anything to sit on making it impossible to seat correctly. The Ichiba's I purchased are specific to the Mazda and have the correct 67.1 bore but am I SOL with regard to maintaining hub-centricity?
 

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Aspiring Mad Scientist
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1,716 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Yep, you're SOL with any off-the-shelf 5mm hubcentric spacer. I have the same problem right now, I'm running JBR 5mm spacers in the rear and the hubcentric ring only starts to catch before the wheel meets the spacer.

The permanent solution to this is to make either a custom hubcentric ring or a special hub- and wheel-centric spacer.
 

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Yep, you're SOL with any off-the-shelf 5mm hubcentric spacer. I have the same problem right now, I'm running JBR 5mm spacers in the rear and the hubcentric ring only starts to catch before the wheel meets the spacer.

The permanent solution to this is to make either a custom hubcentric ring or a special hub- and wheel-centric spacer.
What about these H&R 5mm spacers (10656710)?
 

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Aspiring Mad Scientist
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1,716 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
I'm not sure that's going to help you any lol... at least, not within the scope of parts that I know of. Easiest dirtiest way I can think of is to shave down the flange OD of an aluminum hub ring so you can insert it backwards into the wheel. That's kinda janky but it won't create balance issues as long as you're careful about how you shave.
 

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ZOOM'IN around Mid-Ohio
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Does anybody have any suggestions as to how wide of spacers I could use without doing any body mods. I have oe size 18" rims and tires about a 1.5 drop. Thanks.
 

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I have same wheels on 10mm spacers with 1.75" and no rub even loaded with passengers or speed bumps. I "feel" like I could go 15 or 20mm before running into problems. 15mm and from what I can tell that should bring you slightly past flush. Tires may poke out barely but I honestly like that look more than being inside the fender. 10mm is super close but just inside. With a 1.5" drop you may be fine with up to 20mm but I'd confirm that with someone here more experienced than I.
 
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