Front strut tower bar Q?

Hawk94 said:

I'm with everyone here. A RSB is more bang for the buck. Chassis bracing does work if you have a lot of it but with just a single bar it won't make a noticeable difference at all (if any).

Besides most STB are for looks anyways.

Click to expand...

Sway bars and shock tower bars are two different things for two different purposes. The sway bar stiffens the rear suspension, reducing body roll and changing how the car handles. The result is less understeer and more front grip.
The front tower brace keeps the suspension parts in proper alignment by securing the upper mounts together at a fixed distance. When the upper mounts are not tied together, they can move independently, especially if the car has Macpherson struts. When this happens the tires can lose grip from camber changes. Just think of it as a rigid box with one side missing. Without the top, the two vertical sides move independently and can flop around. Add the top section and it is a much stronger structure, not nearly as prone to move around. Some cars benefit from this, some not so much. The 3 seems to be one of the cars that does.

Road Trip said:

However, if I still want quicker turn in/less understeer, the next step would be the Progress RSB's (in their less firm setting). And if I want more improvement, will lastly add the Tanabe strut tower brace/bar, but I am not trying to change this car to an autocrosser/sports car circuit racer, just a "big fun" curvy country corner driver.

Click to expand...

The Progress bar works much better on the full stiff setting. The outer setting is not much more than stock. Don't forget to upgrade the sway bar end links.
If you are going to get a tower brace, go with the one piece Autoexe bar. The Tanabe is ok but is a multi piece that still allows movement. The single piece bar just works better.
You'll get better turn in from the strut bar than the RSB also.
I think you will find there is a fine line between an autox/circuit car and canyon carver street car.:smile2: