Front strut tower bar Q?
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From the many who have already done their mods, their close-to-unanimous recommendation that a better first mod is a larger rear sway bar (RSB), and the majority who have done the latter, have installed the Progress RSB and been happy with it. And to be fair, the minority who have installed the stiffer Corksport RSB have also been very happy with it.
After doing that, some have gone on to install the tower strut base, with many happy, however some not thrilled with the consequent greater NVH.
If you want more info, you can use the red search icon (top right of screen), and find many, many threads on these subjects.
After doing that, some have gone on to install the tower strut base, with many happy, however some not thrilled with the consequent greater NVH.
If you want more info, you can use the red search icon (top right of screen), and find many, many threads on these subjects.
I'm with everyone here. A RSB is more bang for the buck. Chassis bracing does work if you have a lot of it but with just a single bar it won't make a noticeable difference at all (if any).
Besides most STB are for looks anyways.
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To the contrary, I noticed a difference when I mounted my Tanabe STB. A tighter, more precise feeling to the front end & turning. However, it was nowhere near the difference that the Progress RSB made in the rear. That was a night & day improvement! Probably the single best mod you can do to these cars.
I think adding both makes for a great combo package to improve handling, but start with the RSB if you're on a budget.
I think adding both makes for a great combo package to improve handling, but start with the RSB if you're on a budget.
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Sway bars and shock tower bars are two different things for two different purposes. The sway bar stiffens the rear suspension, reducing body roll and changing how the car handles. The result is less understeer and more front grip.
The front tower brace keeps the suspension parts in proper alignment by securing the upper mounts together at a fixed distance. When the upper mounts are not tied together, they can move independently, especially if the car has Macpherson struts. When this happens the tires can lose grip from camber changes. Just think of it as a rigid box with one side missing. Without the top, the two vertical sides move independently and can flop around. Add the top section and it is a much stronger structure, not nearly as prone to move around. Some cars benefit from this, some not so much. The 3 seems to be one of the cars that does.
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Another very good thread with lots of good, reasoned information. Thank you. I, like most, believe in working on handling issues one mod at a time, rather than throwing a bunch of mods together at the same time, hoping they work well together.
I have so much to learn, with still only one hour experience spiritedly driving a Mazda 3 on a curvy road.
I am immediately changing to a set of Michelin Pilot Sports A/S 3+'s, and as they have stiffer sidewalls than the OEM Dunlops, and as the A/S 3+'s are known for quick turn in, will try those out for a while, if necessary trying minor tire pressure adjustments to see how happy I then am with tires being my only initial handling change.
However, if I still want quicker turn in/less understeer, the next step would be the Progress RSB's (in their less firm setting). And if I want more improvement, will lastly add the Tanabe strut tower brace/bar, but I am not trying to change this car to an autocrosser/sports car circuit racer, just a "big fun" curvy country corner driver.
I have so much to learn, with still only one hour experience spiritedly driving a Mazda 3 on a curvy road.
I am immediately changing to a set of Michelin Pilot Sports A/S 3+'s, and as they have stiffer sidewalls than the OEM Dunlops, and as the A/S 3+'s are known for quick turn in, will try those out for a while, if necessary trying minor tire pressure adjustments to see how happy I then am with tires being my only initial handling change.
However, if I still want quicker turn in/less understeer, the next step would be the Progress RSB's (in their less firm setting). And if I want more improvement, will lastly add the Tanabe strut tower brace/bar, but I am not trying to change this car to an autocrosser/sports car circuit racer, just a "big fun" curvy country corner driver.
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The Progress bar works much better on the full stiff setting. The outer setting is not much more than stock. Don't forget to upgrade the sway bar end links.
If you are going to get a tower brace, go with the one piece Autoexe bar. The Tanabe is ok but is a multi piece that still allows movement. The single piece bar just works better.
You'll get better turn in from the strut bar than the RSB also.
I think you will find there is a fine line between an autox/circuit car and canyon carver street car.:smile2:
A solid one piece alternative to the autoexe is a speedline front strut bar less than $100 bucks, and it indeed makes a diffdrence in handling not that much tho, probably just about 20% more predictable handling and on corners doesnt wobble that much.
The progress rsb is very good and reduces the understeer which makes you feel secure, better planted and faster in corners. I bought it from thmotorsports 139 dlls
The progress rsb is very good and reduces the understeer which makes you feel secure, better planted and faster in corners. I bought it from thmotorsports 139 dlls
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441 Posts
The Progress RSB works great & offers a substantial improvement in the softer setting. Had mine set that way for 1 1/2 years, with the stock end links, on my daily driver. Great handling, no problems. I think the stock end links are fine with stock springs or a mild drop, like my Racing Beat springs. If you go to a bigger drop, then the stronger end links would be advisable.
I just looked over everything yesterday, when mounting Pirelli P Zero All Season Plus tires. Have had these on my Acura TSX Wagon, replacing Michelin Pilot Sport A/S 3's. The Pirelli's have a much smoother ride, where the Michelins are harsh (and the new A/S 3+'s are even harsher), have great turn-in & grip. They out-performed the Michelin A/S 3+ in Tire Rack's testing & I understand why. My results match theirs. Here's a link to their test:
https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tests/testDisplay.jsp?ttid=216
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