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Discussion Starter #1
2015 mazda3i automatic, 95k miles

Just spent $600 to fix misfire on cylinder 4. (I wrote a thread about that.)

Now at 40mph on a slight incline trying to pass a car, I felt my car hard shift for the first time.

Normally I wouldn't be worried about it but after my recent engine trouble, I'm worried.
 

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Sometimes these things make errors, it's not perfect. One harsh shift doesn't mean anything.

That being said, you're getting to the point where a transmission flush is a good idea.

See if it keeps doing it and worry then.
 

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Not sure what you mean by "hard shift", but I'll bet it was an engine misfire. Have you checked for codes?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Not sure what you mean by "hard shift", but I'll bet it was an engine misfire. Have you checked for codes?
No, the misfire was fixed.
Hard shift as it sounds. I felt the transmission shift hard instead of the normal easy shifting
 

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In my experience (CX-5 mostly) an engine misfire will cause the drivetrain to buck like crazy, which could be misconstrued as a trans issue. However that usually puts the drivetrain into "limp home mode" and results in a code being thrown by the ECU. I think it wouold be worth your while to check for any codes.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
where is the transmission dipstick?
want to check fluid levels.
 

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One caveat: IF this is the automatic transmission which is giving a problem (and credible evidence above suggests that maybe it is not)....

The thing worth noting (and not All would agree with me) - at 95,000 miles I personally would not i) flush the transmission; ii) nor would I change filter once / drop the fluid three times in fairly close succession. I say this assuming you have never dropped the ATF in 95,000 miles.

New ATF in there can liberate sludge / debris - as the chemistry of the new fluid is fresh and it acts as a solvent, strictly speaking. If you had dropped the ATF / changed the filter, say, every 50,000 miles... then NP. Otherwise, for me, NO WAY!

Oh, the notion of flushing the transmission, even at 50,000 mile intervals, ALSO is contentious. Some mfrs (like Honda) strictly say - no flushing - 'cuz they are worried about possible contamination of their transmissions. Also, running one cooling line into a bucket (assuming it DOES have cooling lines) while adding ATF at the same time - does not pass muster for me, as it interrupts the lubricant flow that normally feeds a bearing or a bushing or ??? The line is meant to stay connected!

YMMV!
 

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Do you really have to disassemble the air filter box and all that to get it it? Or did I miss something?
No, you can also access it from underneath once you remove the under shield. Those are your choices for easy access.
 

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Look at about the 1 minute mark in this video to see where the dipstick is....


Just FYI, when you drain the transmission, only about half of the 8+ quarts that are in there will actually come out......
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Look at about the 1 minute mark in this video to see where the dipstick is....


Just FYI, when you drain the transmission, only about half of the 8+ quarts that are in there will actually come out......
wtf idiot engineer put the dipstick in such an inaccessible place?
you have to remove the airbox to get to the dipstick just to check the transmission fluid level?!???
 

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They intended that it NOT be a regular service item. I personally am not in that school of thought. Having said this, there undoubtedly is a bunch of planning to do both to just check the ATF... and/or also to go ahead and change it and end up with the correct level (particularly if you combine this with a filter change). The car has to be raised and leveled, and the temp of the ATF has to between two values in order for the level indication to be accurate. Also, cleanliness is very important... and so to my way of thinking, it DOES merit taking the air box out to be able to clean in and around the dipstick --- even if you do, ultimately, intend to check level with the airbox back in place. Last comment is... I don't personally know if the car will run with the airbox removed (for purposes of checking ATF).

Not ideal, I know...
 

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Discussion Starter #16
More transmission hard shifting. this time from 1st to 2nd gear.

because of the pandemic, i only go out every 2-3 days to run errands.
now the first time i accelerate hard that day, i feel a hard shift from 1st gear to 2nd.

i drive like 2 blocks from my garage in a cul de sac to T in the road.
i have to turn left or right onto the main road.

so after the stop sign, i turn and accelerate to 35mph. I feel the transmission shift hard from 1st to 2nd everytime.
this does not happen on my drive home approximately 2hrs later.

Any ideas?
 

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IMHO:

If the car is under a warranty, get it checked out while somebody else might pay for repairs.

If it is not under warranty, make sure the ATF fluid is at the proper level on the dipstick. If it isn't, put in the amount of ATF fluid needed and drive it to see if it improves.

If it doesn't improve and if you still have not changed the tranny fluid (I believe you had 95K miles on it?), then I would drain the pan and add back the amount of drained fluid with fresh Mazda ATF fluid, which should total about 3.5 quarts, I believe.

If that doesn't fix it, you could try dropping the pan, changing the internal filter, adding the proper amount of Mazda's ATF fluid, and see what happens.

If the transmission is still doing it, then I would drive it till it becomes obvious that it has to go to the shop or risk being stranded on the road.
 

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More transmission hard shifting. this time from 1st to 2nd gear.

because of the pandemic, i only go out every 2-3 days to run errands.
now the first time i accelerate hard that day, i feel a hard shift from 1st gear to 2nd.

i drive like 2 blocks from my garage in a cul de sac to T in the road.
i have to turn left or right onto the main road.

so after the stop sign, i turn and accelerate to 35mph. I feel the transmission shift hard from 1st to 2nd everytime.
this does not happen on my drive home approximately 2hrs later.

Any ideas?
Very interesting, I actually feel the same thing when it's my first drive of the day. I have to be very gentle on the acceleration out of my neighborhood, otherwise it'll shift kind of hard (not a jerk but noticeable), but once it warms up I don't experience the rough shift. I had just assumed it was a transmission warming-up quirk, but now I wonder if it warrants a warranty visit before my powertrain one is up...
 

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Very interesting, I actually feel the same thing when it's my first drive of the day. I have to be very gentle on the acceleration out of my neighborhood, otherwise it'll shift kind of hard (not a jerk but noticeable), but once it warms up I don't experience the rough shift. I had just assumed it was a transmission warming-up quirk, but now I wonder if it warrants a warranty visit before my powertrain one is up...
Same here if its a cold start if im too hard on the pedal it will buck lightly into 2nd a bit sometimes have 47k and plan to do a drain and fill at 52k and i will send it off to blackstone although they will probably say most of wear is from the break in procedure
 

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Same here if its a cold start if im too hard on the pedal it will buck lightly into 2nd a bit sometimes have 47k and plan to do a drain and fill at 52k and i will send it off to blackstone although they will probably say most of wear is from the break in procedure
Mine has done this as well since owning the car at 28k miles. If it has the cold light on, it hits hard from 1st to 2nd. Once the light is off, smooth sailing. Outside temperature impacts as well. It's almost if the trans temp is between 50-100 degrees. Any lower or higher its fine.

Sent from my LG-H872 using Tapatalk
 
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