If you notice that regen has started (high consumption, exhaust noise, i-Stop engine indicator), just downshift a gear or two. When engine revs over 3000, regen is done in less than 5 minutes.
Jukkeli
Your right there Fred.
Fred,
Yes that's a hard one to swallow, I got the impression that the 1.5d didn't suffer from that problem as I understand it was a batch problem with the Denso 2.2d injectors, but obviously not.
Now do other makes of modern diesel cars ( 2013- on) suffer from failing injectors as much as Mazda?
You would expect somebody buying the Mazda 2 1.5d they would be using it for more town driving rather than long distance as Mazda expects the M6 2.2d to be driven.
Yet prior to the Skyactive's people bought cars to suit their pocket and size of family and we were encouraged to buy a diesel as it produced less C02 than petrol and you were 'saving the world'.
Then they come out with his particulate matter, surely petrol has particulate matter, and NOx. The atmosphere is 60% Nitrogen anyway, so its a bit oxydised, but does this affect the ozone layer, no but methane does, worse than CO2 and were does methane come from, the sour gasses they burn off when drilling for oil and coal mining.
So we won't drill for oil or mine coal, see how long that lasts.
What are most people clothes and shoes, interior of cars, mobile devices, interior of trains and busses, perhaps 50% of everyday items - PLASTIC, and were does plastic come from, oil and coal? Then you need coal to produce steel.
But motorists are the cash cow that just keep on coming.
Are we going to ground all aircraft due to the pollution the cause. No, so why ban cars? Look how much energy it takes to smelt Aluminium ore.
If they forget the NOx, increase the compression ratio, the economy would increase, thus producing less 'pollutants', adding Adblue and perhaps something else might reduce NOx.
You have a DPF which collects carbon, so every so often you have a regen and what comes out the tail pipe but more carbon.
Was it not Einstien who said, 'Matter cannot be created nor destroyed', so what goes in must come out, its still carbon in another form.
A higher compression engine is working at a higher temperature so could be burning some of this carbon without storing it up. Thermal Efficiency is propotrional compression ratio which equates to a hotter engine.
In the past designers have been limited limited by material characteristics, and lubrication, heat removal, but I am sure by now some of these have been overcome to produce a more efficient engine was it not for the Green lobby that still drive cars and don't live in caves with no heat and survive on a plant based diet producing more methane than somebody on a meat diet.
The multinationals tell the governments what they have to do, nothing about Democracy, but absentee dictators.
Marcy,
You might want to look at Forscan Software, you can use via wifi, Bluetooth or hardwired to a laptop. There is the Lite or the Full Blown version.
The Lite gives all the Fault codes, certain service procedures and is quite cheap, I paid €4 in 2017. Its good for Mazda's( up to 2020) and Fords.
Round the town running are the bane of the 2.2d engines, regardlessod servicing as the servicing is filters and fluids.
You might want to look at Forscan Software, you can use via wifi, Bluetooth or hardwired to a laptop. There is the Lite or the Full Blown version.
The Lite gives all the Fault codes, certain service procedures and is quite cheap, I paid €4 in 2017. Its good for Mazda's( up to 2020) and Fords.
Round the town running are the bane of the 2.2d engines, regardlessod servicing as the servicing is filters and fluids.
Marcy,
If your injectors have been proven in good order, that does seem strange. MAP sensor if choked with carbon is a indication the inlet manifold is.
Have you proved the DPF DP pipes ar clear? The single one, the Exh Press no.1 can get blocked as it goes through a banjo and bolt on the dpf, so the hole in the bolt is suspect, but the pressure is highest there so easy to check. The bad one is the 'after' DPF, pressure is hard to feel even when revved with the sensor removed, but pour some water and washing up liquid down those pipes, if it flows away then its clear,but testing the electrical output to the sensor might take a bit more fiddling. All Mazda do is fit a new one, they should have a rig to test these things but they don't. Replacing a sensor doesn't prove itsa faulty sensor as they probably carry out a forced regen and an injector learn, which clouds the issue for a little longer.
I very much doubt its the battery thats caused the problem, but carrying out relearns to everything may help. Very often disconnecting the battery cures some problems. Bit like an Alt/ Cntrl/ Del in the computer world.
What engine and year is the car?
I assume that's the Portugease flag you are showing?
If your injectors have been proven in good order, that does seem strange. MAP sensor if choked with carbon is a indication the inlet manifold is.
Have you proved the DPF DP pipes ar clear? The single one, the Exh Press no.1 can get blocked as it goes through a banjo and bolt on the dpf, so the hole in the bolt is suspect, but the pressure is highest there so easy to check. The bad one is the 'after' DPF, pressure is hard to feel even when revved with the sensor removed, but pour some water and washing up liquid down those pipes, if it flows away then its clear,but testing the electrical output to the sensor might take a bit more fiddling. All Mazda do is fit a new one, they should have a rig to test these things but they don't. Replacing a sensor doesn't prove itsa faulty sensor as they probably carry out a forced regen and an injector learn, which clouds the issue for a little longer.
I very much doubt its the battery thats caused the problem, but carrying out relearns to everything may help. Very often disconnecting the battery cures some problems. Bit like an Alt/ Cntrl/ Del in the computer world.
What engine and year is the car?
I assume that's the Portugease flag you are showing?
If you remove the no.1 Exhaust pressure sensor and or the High pressure side of the DP sensor No. 2, you can add these chemicals via these tubes.
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If you run the engine with this removed, you will pick up the hp side, this is the one before the dpf so putting a cleaning chemical down and leaving overnight to let its do its thing.
The single gas sensor goes to the same place and needs to b proven clear by removing the sensor and running the engine. You will know if its clear or blocked, but a drop of washing up,liquid down them all won't harm. The single one attaches via a banjo so you have small holes that might block.
The nozzle from a latex tube being tapered works quite well and as they are clear you can see the liquid and its speed going down. Start Friday night pour plenty down, leave over night, then do the same Saturday giving it a few hours to soak, rinse through with fresh water and start again.
If you have a bottle with a pump and hose connect that up.
I found that the low pressure side possibly got blocked with carbon and started throwing the code.
The other possibility is blocked intake manifold and Throttle valve if you do a lot of town driving or have a lot of miles on it. You can remove both the EGR valves and EGR cooler quite easy and clean those . Just fill the cooler with rich soapy water and leave a few hours. Rinse through with garden hose until it runs clear.
If you run the engine with this removed, you will pick up the hp side, this is the one before the dpf so putting a cleaning chemical down and leaving overnight to let its do its thing.
The single gas sensor goes to the same place and needs to b proven clear by removing the sensor and running the engine. You will know if its clear or blocked, but a drop of washing up,liquid down them all won't harm. The single one attaches via a banjo so you have small holes that might block.
The nozzle from a latex tube being tapered works quite well and as they are clear you can see the liquid and its speed going down. Start Friday night pour plenty down, leave over night, then do the same Saturday giving it a few hours to soak, rinse through with fresh water and start again.
If you have a bottle with a pump and hose connect that up.
I found that the low pressure side possibly got blocked with carbon and started throwing the code.
The other possibility is blocked intake manifold and Throttle valve if you do a lot of town driving or have a lot of miles on it. You can remove both the EGR valves and EGR cooler quite easy and clean those . Just fill the cooler with rich soapy water and leave a few hours. Rinse through with garden hose until it runs clear.
I was not aware of that Zdarova, thanks. I will look on the Forscan forum when I get a chance. I have had up to 300gms per litre a few years ago when I was suffering faulty injectors.
At the moment I am getting used to wearing hearing aids and trying to sort out the technical side to them.
Zdarova, no you shouldn't need to change it. It depends how diluted it is in the first place, a forced regen is no different to a regen the ecu does in the normal way when you are running.
A rough guide on oil dilution is the level of the oil cold.
Fresh oil should be between the min mark and the full mark on the dipstick and when changing oil and filter, 5.1 litres, no more, unlike a petrol when it would be up to the full mark one would assume, but I stand to be corrected on M6 petrols.
The X is absolute maximum level and the oil and filter should be changed pronto, that week. If youbare checking oil levels cold weekly you may or may not see the level rise week to week depending on the type of driving, summer /winter, any fuel injector problems.
Between the 5.1 litre mark and X is about a litre of diesel. The C3 grade of oil is so formulated to withstand this level of contamination. You can feel it in the oil.
When I was doing a lot of long distance driving particularly in the summer I found the oil contamination figure from Forscan would decrease after a hot run and reduced to zero from single figures or teens.
If you haven't got Forscan Lite software then its a good investment for a Ford or Mazda driver.
It gives you all the readings that the dealer can take, such as dilution, DP of DPF , number of total number of regens and miles since last regen and a lot more than I assume the generic code reading software does.
The term 'Forced' means you have initiated the regen, not the ecu. It will be no different. The main thing is the engine nice and hot, not just left on tick over until the blue light goes off, which only means the coolant is up to temperature not the oil and the rest of the engine. Give it an Italian tune up, you will understand being Italian, ie drive like the Mafioso is after you.
Arrivederci
A rough guide on oil dilution is the level of the oil cold.
Fresh oil should be between the min mark and the full mark on the dipstick and when changing oil and filter, 5.1 litres, no more, unlike a petrol when it would be up to the full mark one would assume, but I stand to be corrected on M6 petrols.
The X is absolute maximum level and the oil and filter should be changed pronto, that week. If youbare checking oil levels cold weekly you may or may not see the level rise week to week depending on the type of driving, summer /winter, any fuel injector problems.
Between the 5.1 litre mark and X is about a litre of diesel. The C3 grade of oil is so formulated to withstand this level of contamination. You can feel it in the oil.
When I was doing a lot of long distance driving particularly in the summer I found the oil contamination figure from Forscan would decrease after a hot run and reduced to zero from single figures or teens.
If you haven't got Forscan Lite software then its a good investment for a Ford or Mazda driver.
It gives you all the readings that the dealer can take, such as dilution, DP of DPF , number of total number of regens and miles since last regen and a lot more than I assume the generic code reading software does.
The term 'Forced' means you have initiated the regen, not the ecu. It will be no different. The main thing is the engine nice and hot, not just left on tick over until the blue light goes off, which only means the coolant is up to temperature not the oil and the rest of the engine. Give it an Italian tune up, you will understand being Italian, ie drive like the Mafioso is after you.
Arrivederci
Unless you stop and do a forced regeneration, which you need Forscan software, and OBD adaptor and a bit of wire and know what you are doing to do.
I would agree they are nice cars but for a few engine problems, coking up and faulty injectors. Far better than any of Mazdas replacements.
Would that be the Finnish flag you are flying or Greek?
I would agree they are nice cars but for a few engine problems, coking up and faulty injectors. Far better than any of Mazdas replacements.
Would that be the Finnish flag you are flying or Greek?
If Mazda oil (really Elf) is cheaper than Castrol and is the correct specification ie C2/C3 and correct viscosity then use it. This not the case in Britain. I think Castrol is specifiedin USA. The best thing to do is to go onto an oil manufacturers website, Car oil section, type in your registration and that manufacture will recommend the oils (may be more than one) that is suitable for your car. I would tend not to mix manufacturers unless you are desperate and cannot find the same oil that you have in the sump if away for instance, but that shouldn't happen if you are checking the oil weekly but in heavy dring conditions like a holiday, daily. It doesn't take long to check your oil each morning before you start the car. Its better to be safe that sorry. A litre of oil is cheaper than a new engine as is a few minutes to check the car over including tyre pressures. A hard tyre runs cooler and faster.
Christian,
You would be surprised how many drivers never check their oil, or if they do, they check it hot, holding the dipstick so it runs up the dipstick.
Despite what Mazda says, its been common practice since cars were invented to check the oil when cold as when you change your oil its cold so any change in the level from that point is a hint that something is going wrong.
Some of the logic that Mazda uses is against common practice due to the fact they are doing a cover up.
You often see the question asked, "What oil should I use?"
Those of you beyond a certain age will remember in the owners manual (which was usally thinner, but contained more usefull information in it than present tomes) the list of different manufacturers oils and greases and the specific one for the car in each make of oil. Not this dictatorial Mazda Oil, which iscnot madecby Mazda, but by a company in each major geographical area. In Europe its made by the Frogs, Total/Elf. In the US I believe they recommend Castrol.
Yet when I questioned Mazda EUR on using Castrol here, they directed me to Mazda Oil because they get their bounce on that. My dealer realised Mazda/Elf oil was too expensive and uses Castrol.
If you want to use a specific brand, go onto the oil manufactures website and navigate to the are you type in your reg, or make/model/ year/engine and it will give you their specific oil that is suitable for your car.
Though I would tend to stay clear of shop brands and obscure oil makes, like Halfrauds/ Commer/ Sears etc.
You would be surprised how many drivers never check their oil, or if they do, they check it hot, holding the dipstick so it runs up the dipstick.
Despite what Mazda says, its been common practice since cars were invented to check the oil when cold as when you change your oil its cold so any change in the level from that point is a hint that something is going wrong.
Some of the logic that Mazda uses is against common practice due to the fact they are doing a cover up.
You often see the question asked, "What oil should I use?"
Those of you beyond a certain age will remember in the owners manual (which was usally thinner, but contained more usefull information in it than present tomes) the list of different manufacturers oils and greases and the specific one for the car in each make of oil. Not this dictatorial Mazda Oil, which iscnot madecby Mazda, but by a company in each major geographical area. In Europe its made by the Frogs, Total/Elf. In the US I believe they recommend Castrol.
Yet when I questioned Mazda EUR on using Castrol here, they directed me to Mazda Oil because they get their bounce on that. My dealer realised Mazda/Elf oil was too expensive and uses Castrol.
If you want to use a specific brand, go onto the oil manufactures website and navigate to the are you type in your reg, or make/model/ year/engine and it will give you their specific oil that is suitable for your car.
Though I would tend to stay clear of shop brands and obscure oil makes, like Halfrauds/ Commer/ Sears etc.
Yes I suppose a tractor usage is worse than a car, more idling, short journeys, but do tractors have the same problems as we do? Do other modern diesel cars have the same problems? Perhaps not because somebody else makes the injectors I did read that Vauxhauls in Europe use the same injector or at least Denso injectors if not the same part number.
Unfortunately its the way of the world the large conglomerates screw the little people for pure profit and greed.
You just have to hope that your Service Manager at your Mazda dealership will fight your case and secure a better deal, when after all its a latent manufacturing defect that only comes out after the warranty period has finished.
Mazda Eur tried to say it was because my car wasn't serviced by my dealer every time.
Considering a service is only a fluid and filter change which has no bearing on the problem and that for the mileage it had more oil changes than required. Then they claim it was low mileage, as I am retired the car stays in my garage most days and most of the mileage pre Covid was trips over an hour on motorways.
No, they were pulling at straws to wriggle out of paying a contribution towards the cost and admitting a problem, in the end I paid 2/3 full retail cost, still a large sum for for the younger generation living on credit.
Nothing wrong with the DPF, its doing its job. You need new injectors, its a known fault. It is not a problem without a solution, but a problem with a solution.problem without a solution
Exhaust Pressure sensor
Hi all looking for some guidance please : 2014 Mazda CX-5 Skyactiv 2.2 Diesel : Reg YG63 CYA : Vin KMZEF91600161826 : Scan Tool Launch x413 Pro Mini : fault code P243C:00-2F, Particulate Filter regeneration Frequency Bank 2 : Drives ok no limp mode. Live Data pid of concern is exhaust pressure...
That code means it has carried out too many regens in a certain mileage and flags it up, but dealers didn't know the answer a few years ago and if they don't keep up with their technical reading from the country Mazda HQ they may not know the answer now.
Papajim, Never use a sealing washer/gasket/ split pin/ nyloc nut once removed, always use new, they are consumables.
Furthermore do not blank the EGR or remove the DPF.
If you cannot afford to run the car correctly then buy something you can. If one injector needs changing, then they all do as they are all worn to the same extent.
😟 They live and breathe among us.😟
Jamazda, you have some very impressive fuel consumption figures there. Like I try to tell people , log fuel consumption each time you fill up it gives a good picture of what is happening, unfortunately Mazda and their dealers cannot or will not interpret the data should it start to go south and rely on a code, which we know is to late.
Yes like you I record both real mpg and dash mpg and found a % descrepency, but at least it does give a reasonably indication whilst driving and before you fill up on the average mpg.
The other data I take at fill up using Forscan is Oil dilution and total regens, this goes on a spreadsheet and it calculates regen mileage frequency between fill ups ( I don't drive with less than a 1/4 tank of fuel). These two figures are on a graph also against total mileage, wereas mpg/ pence per miles is against date, but equates to total mileage.
From when I first owned a car at 18 ( A35 van) until now at 72 I have always recorded my mpg. I also have another spreadsheet on Excel which records running costs for the car, not just fuel but all costs and by dividing certain costs like maintenance, total cost, fuel etc by mileage that year you know your running cost per mile. All it takes is a few clicks and a new column each year copying any formula across.
The HMRC 44p/ mile is pretty darn accurate.
I have graphs and spreadsheets for my last car I had for 14 years. Another interesting set of figures is at the end of each year caculate Max, Min, Median and Average fuel consumption, then you set up another graph using these figures, year on year.
With my previous car it showed that fuel consumption improved year on year, more in the first 3 years as the car bedded in, but incrementaly afterwards, but the Mazda decreased on all figures( max, min, median and average) after year 1 due to the fact that the fuel injectors were starting to fail even then. It wasn't until year 7 that it flagged up a code that the dealer couldn't initially fathom,but after changing the DPF dp sensor 3 times he came to the conclusion that it must be something else. Mazda UK knew all along but were keeping sctumn.
I would be careful on additives to the fuel as this could exasperate the Cavitation Erosion that the injectors suffer from, I would also query using the Super diesel rather than the standard for the same reason.
Ivan, you have it, it opened for me off your post.
What you are looking at is not a tutorial, but the screen that Mazda Mechanics use to troubleshoot any problem as long as a code comes up. If there is no code they claim thereis nothing wrong with the car, despite itvsounding like a bag of hammers, slow accelleration, or lumpy accelleration or poor fuel consumption due to excessive DPF Regens, which is what this one is about. The reason for excessive regens is poor atomisation of the fuel due to badly worn fuel injector nozzle holes.
I understand from my SM, an extra page came out as listed here suggesting the injectors are tested for spray patterns,flow and pressure. This would have to be done by a fuel injection specialist as Mazda Dealers do not have the specialised equipment nor do they have the training, in fact Mazda Mechanics as with most dealer mechanics are 'new part fitters', they cannot repair anything due to the lack of skills and technical training. Without a laptop to plug in they would be lost. They cannot interpret data, ie fuel consumption, Regen frequency or lube oil contamination pattern, which is all you need to diagnose faulty injectors, not a laptop.
When it comes to Hybrids or EV's they have to,relay everything to the country Mazda HQ and they pass it up the line to Japan. Their training and know how is non existant and SM's is on par.
They are having a lot of electrical problems with both those types of cars or should I say trucks with carpets.
What you are looking at is not a tutorial, but the screen that Mazda Mechanics use to troubleshoot any problem as long as a code comes up. If there is no code they claim thereis nothing wrong with the car, despite itvsounding like a bag of hammers, slow accelleration, or lumpy accelleration or poor fuel consumption due to excessive DPF Regens, which is what this one is about. The reason for excessive regens is poor atomisation of the fuel due to badly worn fuel injector nozzle holes.
I understand from my SM, an extra page came out as listed here suggesting the injectors are tested for spray patterns,flow and pressure. This would have to be done by a fuel injection specialist as Mazda Dealers do not have the specialised equipment nor do they have the training, in fact Mazda Mechanics as with most dealer mechanics are 'new part fitters', they cannot repair anything due to the lack of skills and technical training. Without a laptop to plug in they would be lost. They cannot interpret data, ie fuel consumption, Regen frequency or lube oil contamination pattern, which is all you need to diagnose faulty injectors, not a laptop.
When it comes to Hybrids or EV's they have to,relay everything to the country Mazda HQ and they pass it up the line to Japan. Their training and know how is non existant and SM's is on par.
They are having a lot of electrical problems with both those types of cars or should I say trucks with carpets.
No.11 is a new one, following the failure of many engines to this Code, namely fuel injector nozzles subject to Cavitation Erosion, if not changed could result in nozzle tips falling off dues to the holes in the nozzle joining up.
Mazda is very reluctant to pay anything towards this considering a its a manufacturing defect of Denso's the injector manufacturers, who were partly owned by Toyota and other Japanese car manufacturers.
Mazda is very reluctant to pay anything towards this considering a its a manufacturing defect of Denso's the injector manufacturers, who were partly owned by Toyota and other Japanese car manufacturers.
Mart, the 2.2d is known for heavy carbon in the inlet manifold due to a lot of town driving which causes the EGR to be open more, so the 1.5d I don't suppose is any different.
Following VWgate in 2018 Mazda increased the amount of time the EGR was open to lower combustion temperatures which in turn reduced NOx.
Diesels produce less CO2 than petrol but produce NOx which they claim is bad for the lungs.
What battery powered cars are bad for we have yet to see ( but not in my lifetime).
Following VWgate in 2018 Mazda increased the amount of time the EGR was open to lower combustion temperatures which in turn reduced NOx.
Diesels produce less CO2 than petrol but produce NOx which they claim is bad for the lungs.
What battery powered cars are bad for we have yet to see ( but not in my lifetime).
Checking the injectors is not something you can do yourself and doubt if a Mazda dealer can, but a Bosch Fuel Injection agency can.
Ok, I can only talk about the 6 but never had a water problem so far in 9 years, or 14 years in a previous diesel which was the Rover 45 which for some things and times I wish I hadn't changed to Mazda.
The new CX 60's straight 6 3.5 lt are rich man's toys, in which you are paying £500 for 5 years as luxury tax plus road fund licence, instead of a £20/ year to tax my 2.2d.
The new CX 60's straight 6 3.5 lt are rich man's toys, in which you are paying £500 for 5 years as luxury tax plus road fund licence, instead of a £20/ year to tax my 2.2d.
I don't think the filter can be drained automatically, its a screwed drain, but the wire is the water sensor. Cannot say I have seen anything about a drain interval in Fòrscan but will have another look. No nothing there.
You will need to remove the battery and put a small container under the drain otherwise it drains all over.
The fuel filter change interval depends on mileage rather than time like most things. They are assuming people drive 12k per year.
I have not used Feathers, but give them a call for a price.
To quote the poster from the other site
[Recently spent another £900 on having the oil strainer replaced which came from the message
"System management system requires inspection" It has an approved dealer FSH up to today]
Which is a bit of a generic message as a few are. He'd already spent £900 on turbo and camshaft.
The m6/m3 are a good cars when going well but are beset with a few expensive maladies which the dealers don't know much about due to poor training and a reliance on trouble shooting charts on their system that are not equipped for the faults that come up, or info is held back from the dealers. There is also poor manufacturing and QA on parts most of which are made in China who are known for shortcuts.
You will need to remove the battery and put a small container under the drain otherwise it drains all over.
The fuel filter change interval depends on mileage rather than time like most things. They are assuming people drive 12k per year.
I have not used Feathers, but give them a call for a price.
To quote the poster from the other site
[Recently spent another £900 on having the oil strainer replaced which came from the message
"System management system requires inspection" It has an approved dealer FSH up to today]
Which is a bit of a generic message as a few are. He'd already spent £900 on turbo and camshaft.
The m6/m3 are a good cars when going well but are beset with a few expensive maladies which the dealers don't know much about due to poor training and a reliance on trouble shooting charts on their system that are not equipped for the faults that come up, or info is held back from the dealers. There is also poor manufacturing and QA on parts most of which are made in China who are known for shortcuts.
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