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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 2010 Mazda 3 s Sport Hatch with the BOSE/moonroof package.

First I'd like to say I highly regret getting the BOSE package after running into all these problems with their damn amp and HU wiring.

Here's what I want to do:

1. Keep the Factory radio
2. Install my 4 channel Amp to run the front and rear door speakers (factory speakers for now)
3. Install my Mono Block Amp to run my Alpine Type R sub, (not the factory sub)

I've got 85% of job done, both amps are wired up and ready to be connected, no problems there. My main issue is that I want MY 4 channel AMP to run the 4 speakers in the doors and NOT the BOSE one, but I can't unplug the BOSE amp right now without losing audio everywhere!

Now from what I've seen on the other posts is that I will need the PAC AOEM-MAZ2 to connect to the factory radio and to get a RCA signal to my amp. I understand that I will be buying that shortly.

My main issue is this, after I run the RCA cables from the PAC unit to MY amp, how do I then hook up the speaker outputs from MY amp back to the factory speakers?

I have not found a single post on here where someone has done this with factory speakers.
All the posts I've found so far people have used this PAC unit to provide signal to an amp that is powering a sub, where you do not need to connect anything back to the factory wiring because you're just connecting an external sub.

At this time I do not want to put in new speakers, or take the doors apart to get the wiring, I want to be able to use the wiring behind the radio, or kick panel if available to tie in my new and improved signal from MY amp and completely cut out the signal coming from the BOSE amp.


Has anyone done this the way I'm describing? After I install the PAC unit is there a way I can cut the PAC unit wires and not the factory wires to tie into the speakers or will this kill the RCA output signal going to MY amp?

Thanks for your help, this is my first time wiring and upgrading a new car while keeping the factory radio.
 

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I have a 2010 Mazda 3 s Sport Hatch with the BOSE/moonroof package.

First I'd like to say I highly regret getting the BOSE package after running into all these problems with their damn amp and HU wiring.

Here's what I want to do:

1. Keep the Factory radio
2. Install my 4 channel Amp to run the front and rear door speakers (factory speakers for now)
3. Install my Mono Block Amp to run my Alpine Type R sub, (not the factory sub)

I've got 85% of job done, both amps are wired up and ready to be connected, no problems there. My main issue is that I want MY 4 channel AMP to run the 4 speakers in the doors and NOT the BOSE one, but I can't unplug the BOSE amp right now without losing audio everywhere!

Now from what I've seen on the other posts is that I will need the PAC AOEM-MAZ2 to connect to the factory radio and to get a RCA signal to my amp. I understand that I will be buying that shortly.

My main issue is this, after I run the RCA cables from the PAC unit to MY amp, how do I then hook up the speaker outputs from MY amp back to the factory speakers?

I have not found a single post on here where someone has done this with factory speakers.
All the posts I've found so far people have used this PAC unit to provide signal to an amp that is powering a sub, where you do not need to connect anything back to the factory wiring because you're just connecting an external sub.

At this time I do not want to put in new speakers, or take the doors apart to get the wiring, I want to be able to use the wiring behind the radio, or kick panel if available to tie in my new and improved signal from MY amp and completely cut out the signal coming from the BOSE amp.


Has anyone done this the way I'm describing? After I install the PAC unit is there a way I can cut the PAC unit wires and not the factory wires to tie into the speakers or will this kill the RCA output signal going to MY amp?

Thanks for your help, this is my first time wiring and upgrading a new car while keeping the factory radio.
If I recall correctly you cannot wire an aftermarket amp to the bose speakers, aftermarket amps are usually 4 or 8 OHMS and I think Bose speakers are only 2 OHMS. It may be different now but I had an 89 Accord LXI with bose system and that was the case with that car.

Pat.

Pat.
 
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If I recall correctly you cannot wire an aftermarket amp to the bose speakers, aftermarket amps are usually 4 or 8 OHMS and I think Bose speakers are only 2 OHMS. It may be different now but I had an 89 Accord LXI with bose system and that was the case with that car.

Pat.
This is correct, the BOSE speakers will present the amp with a 2ohm load per channel...most amps will be able to handle this but it will (theoretically) double their power output so that your stock speakers will be seeing a huge amount of power, power that will likely lead to their early demise.

My opinion, forget the amp for now unless you're willing to purchase new full range speakers.
 

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Well damn that's a bummer. I'll have to check the amp to find out what the ohm load per channel is.
Thanks for the info guys. I'm still determined to find a solution to this issue. Wish me luck!
 

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Well damn that's a bummer. I'll have to check the amp to find out what the ohm load per channel is.
Thanks for the info guys. I'm still determined to find a solution to this issue. Wish me luck!
yeah, that's a bummer. my 03 mazda6 has the bose audio package too and it was mess to
deal with. that's why when i bought my m3 i didn't get the bose package.
good luck and i'm sure you or someone will find a solution.
 

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bypass bose amp

i know this is a somewhat old thread and im sure XeroEtremities has figured this out by now but no one seemed to mention ohms law. if he was willing to remove the door panels to access the speakers and run his own speaker wire to the amp he could wired the two front speakers in series. 2 ohms+2 ohms=4 ohms. likewise with the rears. he would have to deal with a mono output from the speakers until he was ready to replace'em with aftermarkets and do the job right. at least in this configuration the amp wouldn't heat up and enter thermal protection mode by shutting off. Sounds like when its all said and done as far as the factory amp is concerned your guna have to 'cut it off at the pass'. it always seems like a lot of work but when it comes to cutting corners with car stereo to save time, you usually end up frustrated and spending more time diagnosing problems.
 
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