They fixed the alignment. Just needed to be adjusted.

Also, the tranny is operating very smoothly now. The mechanic said that it probably just needed a week for the oil to coat all the syncros because it was brand new. It's great now - very happy I had it done.

 

They fixed the alignment. Just needed to be adjusted.

Also, the tranny is operating very smoothly now. The mechanic said that it probably just needed a week for the oil to coat all the syncros because it was brand new. It's great now - very happy I had it done.

Great to hear!

 

Time for me to slide in in this discussion, as I started experiencing some issue shifting into 5th gear on a cold start. It only happens with the first shift in 5th gear after the car is started. What happens is the moment I press the clutch and move the stick in 5th gear, it jerks and there is a little noise (like when you try to get the car in gear without pressing the clutch) before it goes in to gear, but once it's in 5th that's it, it won't happen again until next cold start. Although I noticed when in 5th gear and getting the revs higher than 2000rpm there is vibration in the stick and it goes away the moment I shift in to 6th, this only happens in 5th gear. I don't know if the problems are related, but every clue or a possible remedy is highly appreciated, as with pretty much all garages closed or working at a minimum capacity in this difficult time it will take weeks before I can get the car checked out.
Less than 50k miles on the clock and serviced about 5 months ago, but no gearbox oil change, MT.

 

Time for me to slide in in this discussion, as I started experiencing some issue shifting into 5th gear on a cold start. It only happens with the first shift in 5th gear after the car is started. What happens is the moment I press the clutch and move the stick in 5th gear, it jerks and there is a little noise (like when you try to get the car in gear without pressing the clutch) before it goes in to gear, but once it's in 5th that's it, it won't happen again until next cold start. Although I noticed when in 5th gear and getting the revs higher than 2000rpm there is vibration in the stick and it goes away the moment I shift in to 6th, this only happens in 5th gear. I don't know if the problems are related, but every clue or a possible remedy is highly appreciated, as with pretty much all garages closed or working at a minimum capacity in this difficult time it will take weeks before I can get the car checked out.
Less than 50k miles on the clock and serviced about 5 months ago, but no gearbox oil change, MT.

Read post # 183 (and later) of this thread... Do the shifter cable neutralization TSB. See if that helps. Try to do that in as warm an ambient temp location as possible... e.g. after operating car a while (i.e. warm underhood) and with heated interior (i.e. heated for a while). Best to do in a garage... for heat preservation.

 

Ok so I think I also have an issue with my gearbox, 09-2017 hatchback 2.0 here. I’ve had the car (5k km) for a year and it has gotten significantly worse since then. 25k km now.
Btw I’ve red previous pages and it‘s been very informative so thank you all.

Basically 95% of the shifts are notchy and I have to “insist” to go to the gear. Worse is going from 3 to 2 and from 4 to 5. I’ve done the linkage adjustment twice, even if it’s a 2017 and should not be concerned by the TSB. No significant change in how it feels: terrible. It sounds to me like it could be a clutch disengagement issue.

I’ll go to my dealer asap when we will be allowed to live again, while it’s still under warranty.
This is my 5th MT car, never had any sort of gearbox issue before this one. I’m pissed because without that notchiness the damn car would be very good fun to drive.

I’ll keep you informed from what it’s worth.

 

Please view this: MTL Amsoil 75W90 or Redline 75w80
Post #18.

I BELIEVE you reside in France.... so TOTAL TransELF may be available to you... I am not sure whether Others have had experience with that particular lubricant - but it looks to be good. Having said this you NEED to do the clutch engagement point check first, if not simply bleed the clutch hydraulics cct first.

The Pentosin MTF-2 product (unfortunately no longer being mfr'd) has outstandingly low dynamic viscosity (at the standard measuring point of -40°C) of 7,600... outstandingly low for being a 75W-80 GL-4. It would be worth finding out from TOTAL what the value is for rhe TransELF lubricant, also 75W-80... Not shown in their datasheet.

 

There are always three things u can do: 1) confirm full clutch disengagement is occurring per the Mazda FSM; actually do the measurement test!; 2) do shift cable neutralization per the TSB; and 3) try as light a GL-4 75W-80 as u can... with optimized fluid lubricity properties for synchro's.

 

I note that some folks have added-on a heavy shift knob. What else could be tried is to experiment with adding weight to the shift tower's "pendulum" (or counter-weights). It would be nice to add weight on the opposite side so as to not wear out the shift tower bushings/wear points... but this may be impossible.

 

I think it's 1.85 litres. Definitely less than 2 litres. Car should be at transaxle full operating temp! Car must be level. Quit adding fluid when it starts coming out fill hole. Wait a moment while fluid level levels-out... and fluid barely dribbles out. Recommend changing drain- and fill plug sealing washers too... especially drain-plug one.

Other: you should consider tolerating some notchiness when cold, and compensating by upshifting when cold at particularly low roadspeeds in a given gear, and avoiding downshifts except at the last possible moment, at low speeds for the gears at issue. Think of it as a manual shift Ferrari; they ALL are "grouchy" when cold! With some transmissions/transaxles this simply is their characteristic. If that bugs you, buy an automatic.

 

Oh, Others have suggested that a good quality short-shifter plate will alter feel to the extent that this issue is improved.

 

As 75W-80 SAE Spec J306 (???) has a viscosity range for which fluids meet the nominal "75W-80" designation, in general, shift feel is improved by going to the lower viscosities within that range. Both Dynamic viscosity and Kinematic viscosity. Now the other parameter, also, is the lack of slipperiness that synchro's demand... and some mfrs focus on this, like Redline with their MTF 75W-80 (or it may be called MTL... memory does NOT serve, here). I attach a Pentosin product that is no longer mfr'd - but some vendors have NOS... New Old Stock. It is spendy. It is lower in kinematic and dynamic viscosity than is the Redline. It MAY be worth a try. Some may have tried it and may NOT have found it satisfactory... Please pipe-up, Others, if you have found this.

The OEM Mazda product, in general, is not considered to be too, too bad, from what I can see.

Remember that the choice of a lubricant for a manual transmission/transaxle is a balancing act. Too thin, and you fail to properly protect gear faces, flanks, rolling element bearings.... but generally shift feel is a bit better, and maybe cold shift feel is significantly better. Thicker, and you will run into cold temp issues... and the C66M-R transaxle has drilled shafting that the "oil funnel" / trough system "pumps" oil along to be able to lubricate the "speed" gears... 1st speed, 2nd speed, etc... Thick oil will not pump adequately and will fail to lubricate those.

It is HARD to choose a good oil. Do NOT stray from nominally 75W-80 and GL-4 - for, specifically, the C66M-R Skyactive MT 6 speed transaxle!

Oh, last point... if you are looking at lubricants, and comparing it to SAE J306 - realize that that spec has had 3 different variants over the years. So, when Mazda specs 75W-80 - you 'kinda want to know the version of the spec that was in play at the time of design... to truly know what viscosity Mazda wants you to use....